Well the guide book says that kampot is not a place to "do" - its a place to feel and I have to say it got it spot on. Having been here 6 nights now its been a lovely place to relax and chill. Nearby are some apparently wonderful white and almost deserted beaches at Rabbit Island near Kep and at Suanikville (sp?) but those that know me know that beaches dont appeal so I decided to give them a miss - particularly as there will be plenty more along the way I am sure.
Soon after arrival i went to a bar/restaurant recommended by my friends brother in Phom Penh called the rusty key hole owned by an english guy but serving both western and khmer food. i soon met 2 canadian girls whom i have been hanging out with for most of my time in kampot. We got chatting to local Tuc Tuc driver (lets call him mr T) who agreed to show us around the next day.
Had an 8 am start and headed over to some salt fields and pepper plantations. I had never given a thought as to how salt and pepper were made and it was all very educational. Sea water is bought in from the nearby sea and produces 3 layers of salt when it dries up. the first superior layer is scraped off and exported with the third and inferior layer left for the locals. The pepper plantations where not only did they grow pepper but made rice wine from the home grown gas produced from pig excrement - i was just quite glad that at least this time i didnt need the loo. We then headed off to some local caves where we had the option of going the hard way or the easy way. we opted for the former and i wished i hadnt worn my white top which soon turned brown from the scrambling and bat excrement!!
After lunch we headed to kep to go for a swim on the beach but one of the girls was a bit poorly so as had to head home. We managed to get in a fantastic swim the next day however at this wonderfully glorious waterfall which was a bit of trek to get to (an hour cycling - very bimpy and a very difficult hour and a half walking/climbing through the jungle) but what a reward at the end. There were no other western tourists around at all and only 3 locals taking a dip. We larked around for much of the day and headed back home pooped.
One of the highlights here however was watching some local disabled children doing a rehersal for a show. Call me soft but it bought a tear to my eye. The kids looked like they were having so much fun and it was lovely seeing them smile. in fact they were so good that momentarily you forgot about their disabilities. it was all very humbling.
spent a day going up Bokor mountain on the back of a truck and it took all our srength just to remain in the truck as the road was so bumpy i am sure i was headed for the clouds. at the top is a deserted hill station contstructed by the french and mostly destroyed by the vietnamese and pol pot when they fought against each other up there. It was strange still seeing bullet holes in the buildings and bullets strewn around (there definately werent put out for tourists! as they were the real deal - i pulled one out of some moss!!). its a very eery abandoned hill station and the climate was welcomingly much cooler. We then did a jungle "trek" which was a bit of an anti climax as it was more of a stroll than a trek - and i didnt get to see any animals or the 3 legged tiger they call Tripod who lives up there (no joke) - guess that wasnt such a bad thing retrospectively as i think she cld run faster than me 3 legs an all!!
Last night I went to a local wedding and no i didnt blag my way in as OFM has suggested. Mr T knew the groom and after taking us to Mr T's village where his family cooked us the most amazing lunch with the produce we'd bought at the market ( i tried crab!!!) we went on a 2 hour motorbike ride to this village. the wedding wasnt as traditional as i thought it would be and i didnt expect the bride to be wearing a western style dress but i had an awesome time. We had a pay a small contribution to the wedding of ten dollars but then were supplied with non stop food and drink all evening. Very much like an indian wedding the blokes were slowly getting wasted (on rice wine). I soon was teaching the local poor kids (who dont actually get invited to the wedding but are allowed in to collect the beer cans to recycle) how to bangra dance. I dont think they would have been dancing at all had we not been there. they were just lovely. everyone was so friendly and hospitable it was brill!!
Some of you have asked for pictures. i am sorry but the internet here is so painfully slow that I dont think i can at the mo (will try later) but will do so asap
I will be sad to leave kampot as it was so nice and friendly here and as a tourist you dont get hassled all the time. Should be heading to vietnam tomorrow - not sure if I am going to the Mekong delta or saigon first and will decide on the road probably. If the latter I am not sure I will have great internet access down south so dont worry if you dont hear for a few days.
I have totally loved Cambodia. My lasting memory will be a lovely smiley friendly people with an atrocious history. The landscape is very much like the punjab - ie very agricultural and dusty and the people are poor but i have very much enjoyed my stay. Wish i had bought non white clothing as it soon goes a nice shade of brown soon after wearing from all the dust!
thats it for now
