Quechua for Beginners

In 2006, I departed for a brief stay in Peru. Not long after my arrival, Peruvian cuisine kidnapped me and held me hostage for five years. I narrowly escaped her death grip to flee to my native country, but Stockholm syndrome in the form of ceviche cravings sent me running back to my captor time and time again. With dishes like seco de cabrito (piquant goat with beans) and tiradito (spicy raw fish), this nation aims to please every palate. Just don’t expect to bid adieu to Peru after tasting it all.
I can pinpoint the exact moment that Peruvian food wiled me into her bosom. It was during a pachamanca, which my friends assembled to introduce me to Peruvian culture. “Pacha” is Quechua for earth and “manca” means cooking pot, so “pachamanca” loosely translates to earth oven. Hot volcanic rocks are strategically placed in a pit with chicken, pork, fruit, potatoes, beans, humitas (sweet corn tamales), and highland herbs. The food’s burial serves as an offering to “pachamama” (mother earth) for her abundant harvest. After three hours, the rocks heat cooks the pit’s contents to perfection, and each layer is ceremoniously unveiled and eaten. It is a ritual that predates the Incas, and it remains a celebration of community and gratitude for Peruvians.
Most of Peru’s customs are inextricably bound to food. This both enhanced my enjoyment of eating, and also, introduced me to the sheer power of food. Food goes beyond sustenance here. It is an expression of love and heritage, and is a tremendous source of pride for Peruvians. Peru taught me that the most ephemeral of entities can unite us and help us ascertain our place in the world. While food disappears from our plates immediately, it fuels our stories and evokes enduring memories. It can be as personal as shaping a single experience or as widespread as defining entire cultures. It also represents a culture of its own, so why not devour the world one meal at a time? Peru’s as good a starting point as any.