We departed Sydney in another tiny rental car, this time bound for Melbourne via the coastal route. Our drive started along with a rainstorm large enough to shut down the Sydney airport, which followed us south for a few days. We'd inherited a tent from friends in Sydney, and with National Parks lining the route, figured we'd have no problem camping along the way - if only it weren't pouring rain and we'd had any other camping gear besides the tent.
Our only plan was to drive until we felt like stopping - though unfortunately, the rain didn't. So one was spent sleeping in our Hyundai, in the village of Jervis Bay - a town that includes a general store, a police station, and about two streets with a handful of houses. We parked under a streetlight and got as much sleep as we could without the ability to extend our legs. The highlight though, was when Allie came back from a bathroom run knocking on my window and pointing excitedly in the pouring rain - our first kangaroo sighting! There were two of them, just hanging out in someone's front yard, munching away on the grass.
The next morning, the rain took a break long enough for a hike around the bay, during which we heard the "thump thump" of more kangaroos in the bush, and found some interesting sea creature remnants washed up on the beach.
We continued on through more small towns, stopping at the occasional art gallery, gas station or visitor center. We also happened upon the Ninety Mile Beach, which is exactly as it sounds - a beach that stretches farther than they eye can see, with no development and very few people. I walked for an hour, seeing only a few surfers and a few happy dogs running off leash with their owners (Norm would have been in heaven!)
As the rain subsided, we finally put our tent to use in a town called Lakes Entrance. Suitably named, Lakes Entrance is near some amazing beaches and lakes, though the town itself is an uninspiring strip of caravan parks, chain restaurants and shops that close at 4pm. We did find a fairly secluded campsite just out of town, and having no sleeping pads or bags, woke up from a restless sleep early enough to witness the lakefront sunrise and get an early start to the day.
The vast majority of the Australian population live in its major cities, making the in-between routes a simple drive and the cities complete chaos. What originated as a stop in Melbourne to get local information turned into an entire afternoon of being lost in the city, taking wrong turns, and being bewildered by signs such as "right turn from left lane only". I will venture to say that Melbourne was the most stressful driving experience I've ever had.
I'd like to take this opportunity to thank the Visitor Center volunteers of the world. We're taking a Lonely Planet break and traveling without a guidebook here, so we are relying on them way more than I ever have before. In most cases volunteers and just as often sweet ladies over 65, their pink lipstick smiles, calm demeanor and thorough advice always cheers me up. The Melbourne ladies sent me on my way with a stack of brochures and maps and renewed patience, and an hour later the Geelong ladies booked us a hostel and helpled us finish up our long day of driving. Perhaps someday I too will be a Visitor Center lady, and repay the good fortune they have bestowed upon me in my travels.
