Relaxing in Ko Lanta was nice, but we also knew there was more to be experienced when it comes to stunning beaches of southern Thailand. We had time for one more stop, so we chose Tonsai beach - a peninsula on the mainland that feels like an island, isolated by jungle-topped limestone cliffs and accessible only by boat.
We arrived by ferry in neighboring Railay beach, and where the water got too shallow we were transferred to a wooden longboat until we were close enough to wade the rest of the way in. Getting to neighboring Tonsai was even more of an adventure with our packs - it was a half hour climb over rocks and boulders, all of which were either slippery, half underwater, or sharp. Upon arrival we were informed that the way we came is only accessible at low tide, and there was in fact an easier route above.
Tonsai is a true budget travelers paradise - nestled between dramtic limestone cliffs, it consists of just a few dirt paths with cheap bungalows, deliciously cheap restaurants and food stands, Thai massages and a few places to rent climbing and snorkeling gear. There are no cars whatsoever, and in my opinion it's one of the most scenic beaches around.
There is ongoing debate among budget travelers about southern Thailand, which beaches are worthwhile and which are over-touristed. The way people talked about the Raiay area, I'd expected it to be a bit crowded - but Tonsai was the one place I thought had just the right amount going on. It's inhabited, but looking at the shoreline you still see mostly trees - most everything is nicely hidden away just a short walk into the jungle.
My absolute favorite highlight was the snorkeling day trip. In the mid-afternoon we boarded a longtail boat and headed out to the first of three snorkeling sites, Poda island. As soon as I jumped in to the crystal-clear water, I was surrounded by the most unbelievable sea life - with reef just inches below me, I was face-to-face with colorful fish, black spiny sea urchins with what looked like a single blue glowing eye in the center, and all kinds of coral - one looked like a giant seashell with soft purple lips that closed when I swam near. The next site was deeper water near a large rock (or small island?) with caves underneath. I swam under to the other side above the largest coral I've ever seen, schools of fish that look like Nemo, and one big fish that stayed near the ocean floor who was patterned like a dark brown giraffe.
The boat was stocked with freah pineapple, water, and Beer Chang for between stops. After all three swims, we settled on a nearly deserted island which at low tide connects to its neighbor by a long narrow stretch of sand, gentle waved coming from both sides. As far as we could tell, the islands were inhabited only by a Thai family who ran a single food stand on the shore. The islands became two again just before sunset, when thousands of bats emerged into their nightly migration away from the island. After dark, another boat arrived with pots of sticky rice and delicious seafood green curry for the group.
On our way back, we pulled up in a deep spot for a night swim. I had never seen phosphorescence before, and it blew my mind - as soon as I jumped in and started moving my arms and legs, they were surrounded by trails of sparkling light underwater. The faster I moved, the more magical it was - seeing it through the snorkeling mask was especially surreal.
The boat departed too soon, but the ride back was peaceful. I lay in the back of the boat, passing limestone cliffs and looking up at a sky full of stars. At that moment I felt so grateful for what I am experiencing on this trip. That day, in its entirety, was one of those days when travel feels most rewarding - when I am truly amazed by the beauty of our planet.
