It has been about 6 days since we have been in civilisation! Feels a bit odd....
Condors in the Sky and Alpaca on the table:
Took an overnight trip to Chivay which is high in the Andes to go in search of the Andean Condor and to start the aclimatisation process in preparation for the Inca Trail. We started off by learning how to chew coca leaves (tastes gross as you have to put ash with it) and drink coca tea. It was a long drive there but we saw lots of wildlife on the way, mostly alpacas and lama just roaming about. It was cold so we had to buy new alpaca hats from the local women, spot the tourists is more like it! Arived in Chivay and went to an even smaller place to an amazing lodge that was very flash and then went for a tramp around the pre-inca terraces which were beautiful. But it was raining and most people were struggling with the altitude so it made for some very slow walking and it was raining so we were not too enthused. But the trip to the local thermal springs afterwards certainly made up for it. We got back to the lodge for dinner and seeing as we had seen so many cute alpaca on the way decided that it was time to try it as food!!!!! Felt a bit wrong as had been earlier patting some like pets, but we all decided that its just like sheep - japanese tourists find them cute and take photos but eat them as well!!! Anyway they are delicicious and I would recommend them, have the consistency of steak. At dinner time, Chris started to feel the effects of altitude sickness - terrible headache, feel like being sick and no appetite, so it was off to bed for him with a dose of diamox (anti-altitude tablets).
The next morning we were up at about 5 or something ridiculous to drive to Cruz Canyon to look for the Andean Condor. It was now my turn to feel sick, but I opted to drink a cup of coca tea and chew a whole lot of leaves and surprisingly I felt much better within half an hour.
The road to the canyon was long and bumpy but when we arrived there were loads of people there. The guide had said we would stay for an hour and if we didnt see condor we would go somewhere else. but within 5 minutes of arriving a massive condor swooped right past us and we got a great view of its back and all its feathers. Was pretty impressive. They are about 1.5m and weight 12kgs but they just soar in the air. By the end of the hour we had seen about 10 so were all very happy. Then it was time for yet another tramp, this one not so bad. And we tried cactus root at the end - tastes like persimon.
Tears in my eyes:
So now temporarily aclimatised it was time for the Inca Trail. It had been hyped up to us for ages, with people saying Dead Womans Pass on the second day is the worst, and you are going to suffer and blah blah blah. So we were very nervous. It didnt help that the last toilet was a tiny pipe in the ground that you had to squat over, just when you needed a nervous pee! And they charged you too!!!!
Day one was actually not that bad, we walked for 12 km through rolling countryside and it was stinking hot. But generally everyone did really well. We arrived at our lunch area to our porters cheering for us. There were 21 porter for 13 hikers and 2 guides. It sounds excessive doesnt it? But you should see what they have to carry, one guy just carries a huge LPG bottle!!!! on his back!!!! with only sandles on!!!! Lunch on the first day was fresh trout from the holy river of the sacred valley, rice and a salad. With a corn soup to start. And you eat it in the dinning tent at a table that is completely set, has a table cloth and even a silver sugar bowl. We all felt a bit embarrassed by the whole thing as we had expected a bread roll sitting on the ground. But the porters take such pride in their jobs and really want you to succeed in your goal of seeing Machu Picchu. And as our guide explained it is important to the area for the men to have this work to have money for their families.
Day two was all up hill for 2 and a half hours. I started at the back of the pack, but it must be all the walking up hills in wellington because i started passing people and ended up being the 2nd girl from our group to the summit and the 5th person from our group overall. It was so hard though, i had sweat dripping of my face. The summit was 4330m above sea level and once you get there you start coughing cause you can´t get enough oxygen. I was so elated to reach the top.
After that it was pretty much downhill and a lot better, but on the second day we walked an extra 4km to get to a closer campsite which meant we walked 16km in one day at altitude and everyone was pretty stuffed at the end.
After another easy day of hiking we had a thankyou ceremony for the porters, where we gave them our tips and expressed our thanks. And afterwards I was hugged and kissed by 21 Peruvian men!!
The fourth day saw us get up at quarter to four so we could be the first group at the entrance gate which opened at 5:30am and was only 7 minutes walk from our camp site. But thanks to our lovely porters who made sure we were awake and feed and sent off with even more hugs and kisses (and snacks!) we were first! In fact I was the first person through the gate and I was so excited that I started hooning off down the track in the dark and left Chris behind. One of the other guys passed me but for the next half hour to the sungate i was by myself. I was so excited I started running down the track. The last part it up 1km of steps, but i didn´t care, i just wanted to get there. Chris did catch up to me and by 6:10am we were at the sungate which overlooks Machu Picchu, but it was covered in cloud!! Still i didnt care. We waited for our group and then another hour or so of down hill walking saw us arrive at Machu Picchu and it was covered in mist with the big Wynapicchu mountain pointed out at the back. The cloud moved away and there it was! I couldnt help but cry....4 days of hiking and early mornings and the fact that I had been thinking about being at that place for a long time combined with the fact that probably a year ago I couldn´t even run to the end of the road let alone run at altitude after 3 days of hard tramping all took its toll! I can´t describe the feeling of seeing it for the first time.
We spent most of the day there and Chris and I even climbed Wyna Picchu (the famous pointy mountain in the background of all the postcards) and that was probably harder and scarier than anything I have ever done. its straight up with sheer cliffs and the steps are not even wide enough for your foot in some places, and it others you have to hold on to a cable. You should probably be wearing a harness! But at the top you get a view of Machu Picchu that is rarely seen in the brouchures. Coming down was another experience. If you stood straight up on a step your back was still touching the mountain it was that step. At one point i thought i may have to just live at the top forever as there was no way to get down.
the inca trail and machu picchu are one of the hardest (physically and emotionally) things i have ever done in my life and I would reccomend it to everyone!
Bats in the bathroom:
No time to rest, as the day after Machu Picchu saw us take off for the Amazon Jungle to stay in the Tampbota Rainforest. ANd it was stinking hot. I have never sweated so much in my life. It was gross. There were only cold showers but it didnt matter because you were so hot anyway. we stayed in a lodge that had no doors or windows and was basically all open to the jungle. So at night from the safety of your mosquito netted bed you could hear stuiff crashing around outside and all the bugs making noise.
The first night saw us take a night walk around the jungle to find taranchula (cant spell!) eww gross, I found the first hole and our guide stuff a stalk down and managed to get it to come out. But me and another girl both screamed so it ran back to its hole. But not to worry it came back out!!!! Saw about 4 of them in total and it scared me but also i really wanted to see them. Then they made you stand in the jungle in the dark to listen to the bugs and all you can think it spider spider spider! freaky stuff. Definately checked the bed after that!
The next morning we were up at 5:20am to go and watch some birds - saw loads of parrots, it was pretty cool. And after that off to fish for pirana!!!! I caught one, but Chris didnt. Its only the second fish I have caught in my whole life!!! pretty sharp teeth but quite good looking.
And in the afternoon we went to a local farmers market and ate some of his brazil nuts and other fruits. And then finally we went down the river in the dark to look for Caiman (crocs!). We were told that it is mating season, so we wouldnt see many but we saw loads! A bit scary when you are floating towards them...basically all you see is their lurking head but that was enough for me.
This morning we went for an early morning walk to see monkeys but sadly there were none to be found. I guess you get that in the wild, after all it is not a zoo!
As for the bats - saw loads which i was so happy about as i love them. there were four little ones living in the roof of the bathroom, so you could look up while brushing your teeth and check them out. Then there were some hanging from a tree when we were fishing. And after the caiman tour they were swooping through the jungle and you couldnt see them as it was dark only feel them moving the air next to your head as they flapped their wings. Our tour guide found out that I loved bats so when one flew into the kitchen he took me in so i could see it, it was awesome could see its eyes and teeth and ears and it flew around for ages! And finally as we went to sleep last night you could hear the kitchen bat flying in and out of everyones rooms , i think i was the only one who thought it was cool!!!
So tomorrow we get ona 7 hour bus rude to Puno and then its onto Lake Titicca for a home stay with some Peruvians....crikey! |
