We are now into day 4 of cycling. Matt did a miraculous job of navigating us across London and around numerous double decker buses, and after 20km or so we are into proper English countryside. Roads lined with briar roses and bucolic villages where thath roof cottages sit cheek by jowl with tudor homes that defy gravity in remaining upright. This is our chance to iron out any issues with the bike - a bit of a warm up. So far, we have travelled London to Cambridge (117km), Cambridge to Castle Hedington (75km), a loop from Castle Hedinton to Levenham and back (95km -no panniers!) and on to Harwich today.
Castle Hedington is the kind of place where the patrons in the pub all stop and stare as you enter, but are then welcoming, albeit a little perplxed about what on earth brought you to their tiny town. It is also, perhaps unsuprisinly, home to a castle. We try to visit, but it is hosting a rockabilly convention which we are not really dressed for.
Prior to getting on the bikes we spent several days in London, with a trip to the museum (far too much to take in on one day, but who would have thought Cleopatra was only 17 when she died?), a walk through Richmond Park (many deer which Matt took it upon himself to stalk), and dinner in Brick Lane because I declare that I want a proper English vindaloo.
We walk from Brick Lane to The Captain Kidd in Waping,where Matt worked as an 18 year old. On the way we come across the seamier side of London, although I suppose it could have happened anywhere- a guy kicking his female companion. It's a half-lit street near Spitalfields, and she is balled up crying. We intervene long enough for him to protest his innocence to us and then swagger off, and for her to try to leave. Bystanders tell us the couple are in fact newlyweds, and he is her pimp. Matt is angry at the hopelessness of it, and how unable to assist we are. By the time we get to Waping, the pub is shut but they let us in for quick look around. Apparently little has changed.
On to the ferry bound for Denmark tonight. Nothing rotten there, I hope...
