In the Philippines, where culture in the
lowlands had hit an all time low, especially in the cities, and the urban
areas, culture is an extremely rare find. Many may find it
hard to understand, but in the past few decades, the country had been
forgetting more of its heritage in the name of modernization. A lot of cultural
buildings in the city had been demolished, or are in disrepair. So much so that
when we see old houses in the countryside, we often get amazed at how they were
preserved and how they are still used today. While the common country folk are
willing to demolish it and change to a concrete design as soon as their sons or
daughters who were working abroad, sent the money needed for the renovation.
such a thing like this are among the
reasons that drives me to go places, far away from the capital city, the
farther away from the city, the better the scenery.
There was one time, back in 2007, when me,
along with a group of my friends, joined a race that is to take place at the legendary, Banaue Rice Terraces, up in Ifugao Province. then we thought, since we are
going up there, why don't we maximize it? so we decided to go to Sagada as
well, an old, sleepy town famous for its hanging coffins, caves, good food and
it's good people. then off to Baguio City, the biggest city in all of the
cordillera region as a final jump-off before going home.
Banaue rice terraces was nothing like what
you'll see in the postcards, it was way better in real life! it was carved out
of the face of several mountains by the natives of the Ifugao Province
thousands of years ago for the plantation of their staple food, rice. the idea was, from almost the
top, down, to make the whole face of the mountain, suitable for planting, while
leaving the top portion of the mountains, forested, for the waters from the
irrigation of the plantation came from the streams from high above the
mountain. and it also serves as a hunting ground for their meat, for the
mountaintops are the breeding ground for various animals such as bucks, and wild
boars, which serves as a constant supply of game and protein for the
highlanders.
race day came, and we had to navigate
through the entire area, using only map, and compass as our guide. this gave me
the chance to see the famed terraces up-close. we ran in and around, up and
about these terraces trying to find all fifteen control points to finish the race.
it was one of the most breath taking experiences that I had ever had. for as
the normal tourist would just get to see these sights from the highway, the most
one could do is walk among the topmost paddy from the road, but we ran through it! and we got to see
and to interact with the locals, and we did get to see the dubbed "eight
wonder of the world" from different perspectives. Needless to say, me
and my teammate got lost along the way, trying to find point 2 of the race, and
we got cut off at point 10 going to point 11. We didn’t finish the race, bet we
knew in hour hearts, we won, not the race, but the experience was enough to
declare yourself a winner. Well… at least, that’s what I felt.
The next day, we are off to Sagada, from
the town of Banaue, we took a Jeep (not to be confused with the American army
jeep. these ones are bigger, bus like versions of the original, and can also
take on rough terrain.) going to Bontoc City, then from there, another jeep to
Sagada. Seeing as we are all first timers in the area, we decided to ride the
top load of the jeep. So we sat on the roof, and waved our hands happily at the
town of Banaue as we went our way.
The view going up mountainous roads are
captivating, contouring roads line up the mountain faces which, if you follow
on, you would realize that that road is where we will be, a few moments on.
Rough roads, sudden drops of cliffs on the side of the road, high mountaintops
no the right hand side that blocks off the early morning sun and gives us
chills every time we are under it’s shadows, it was a first time experience for
me that I’ll never forget.
Few hours later, we came to the town of
Sagada. It was a small town, but very green and eco friendly. The first time I
saw the place, I was reminded of the film the Lord of the Rings. The place
reminded me so much of The Shire, except, this one was a shire of the
Highlands. we managed to get ourselves settled at a home on a hilltop that was
for rent to tourist. It was great, not to mention the view was indescribable,
my initial reaction was slack jaw amazement. Pine trees, hundreds of years old,
lineup the hills around the town, including the place where we are staying, ragged
limestone rock formation compliment the soft look of the town. In fact, some of
the locals decided to build their houses among the limestone.
The town center was awesome, they have
complete accommodation for a tourist, they have restaurants, a tourist
registration center, a church, marketplace, and souvenir shops and, would you
believe it? A yoghurt shop.
We get to go around for two days in sagada,
they offer a lot for tourist, so much more for the adventure junkies. It’s
trails are fit for mountain biking and downhill bikes, they got rock formation,
which our local guide says was fit for rock climbing activities, beginner level
of spelunking, and hiking for those who wants to go on it on foot, and for the
more extreme hiker, there is a trail there that leads to the province of Ilocos
Sur, via the historical Tirad Pass.
for the common tourist who wants to enjoy
the peace and quiet and the scenery, the local tourist registration can give you
a map, so you can go try and check things out yourself. I heard they also have
two waterfalls near town, but I haven’t had the chance to check it out due to time
constraints.
As we went on our daily schedule, we
learned that they do not sell houses nor lands to outsiders. It is a lesson they have
learned from the now congested Baguio City. I find it as a good thing, for it
will preserve the beauty and charm of Sagada, all the more. And to top it all
off, during the summer months of April, minutes after the sun has set and the
dark has settled, the roads outside town center are riddled with lights. But these
lights aren’t from any lamppost or houses from afar, nay, they are near, nearer
than you expect. As I look up, I realized that the road I’m walking on are
riddled with fireflies’ green light, flickering, moving up and down, and on and
out. It felt like I was on Christmas lane, only the lighting was from Mother
Nature herself. I walked back to our cabin with the green dim light of the
fireflies lighting my way. It was ecstatic.
In the long run, I could say that I fell in
love with the place, the wonderful climate, beautiful sceneries, and beautiful
people, inside and out, and the lowland politics doesn’t seem to affect them at
all, and the laid back lifestyle.
With a heavy hearts, We went home on the
third day, leaving Sagada behind, with me, looking back, the whole way. It was curious;
it was like leaving a loved one behind as she bids you farewell and is
expecting you to come back for her. I myself know, I will come back someday,
although I might find her forever changed in either a small or big way. I know
deep inside, My heart and soul was captivated by Sagada, and I will continue to
Love her, no matter how much she changes in the years to come.
