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Riding from Sea to Sea: John's Cross-Country Bicycle Tour

July 13 - 16 - Sioux Falls, and into Minnesota

USA | Thursday, 17 July 2008 | Views [1898] | Comments [4]

July 13 – a day off in “beautiful” Sioux Falls.  Actually a rather nice town (pop. 163,000) with sculptures all through the downtown area, a nice park around the namesake falls, and a lovely bike path ringing the town.  Rode 16 miles to see a Sioux Falls Canaries minor league game, tour around town and take a dip at a city pool.

 

July 14 – 73 miles from Sioux Falls, SD to Worthington, MN, plus another 4 around town.  Lots of corn and soybeans, but a lovely ride despite some headwinds.  The highlight was learning about the immigrant communities of the area – see notes below.

 

July 15 – 103 miles to Mankato, MN.  This was the flattest day yet, though the leader, Mike, said there was 900 ft of hills, somewhere.  As winds were light and favorable and temps not too hot (high 80’s), I decided to push it a bit.  Finished the century in about 5 ½ hours of riding, for an average speed of 18 mph.  Easily my fastest century ever.  I certainly could not have done anything close to this before the ride, so I must be getting stronger.  As for the scenery – corn on the left, soybeans on the right, windmills in the distance, varying with corn on the right, soybeans on the left, and windmills close by.  With an occasional quaint small town – I particularly like Adrian, MN (named, I understand, after my Pfizer colleague, Adrian Metcalf – who know he was already so famous?) 

 

July 16 – 103 miles to Rochester, MN, in higher heat (upper 80’s) and humidity.  More rolling farmland, so a harder ride – only 14.5 mph.  First time for me to do back to back centuries, so with the headwind, I came in pretty tired.  Saw 4 lakes today, so only 9,996 to go in Minnesota. 

 

The big new skill gained over the past few days has been the ability to tell the difference between a chicken factory, hog barn and cattle feed lot, just by the smell.  If you have to choose, take the cows – chickens are bad and hogs the worst.  Ah, the things you learn.

Thoughts:

 

Guitar Strap:  Immigrants in the heartland

Having arrived in Worthington, MN early in the afternoon, Norm and I ventured  into town to get lunch and see what there is to see in this small, SW Minnesota town (pop. around 12,000.)  Predictably, on the outskirts, was the strip of franchise fast food and motels, on a four land road leading to the I-90 exit.  Once in town, there were neat post-war Cape Cods on the edge, the tree covered streets and fine old colonials closer to downtown, then an 8 or 10 block 1920’s vintage downtown, with fading glory and some vacant shops.   More or less what we have come to expect of small town America in the post-Walmart, corporate agriculture era.

 

Then the surprise, at least for me.  The signs on the shops downtown were mostly bilingual – with Spanish in the larger letters.  If not bilingual, they were all in Spanish.  Clearly there is a significant Hispanic presence.  And judging from the faces seen, also some southeast Asian presence.  Worthington is far from any border or port of entry, and has no migrant labor needs to speak of (as all agriculture is mechanized in these parts) – so why?

 

I spied a store of interest, “Tienda de Musica y Ropa”.  They probably would have a guitar strap, which I needed for my new guitar. I bought an inexpensive strap, then engaged the proprietor in some conversation (in mixed English and Spanish).  He was from Guatemala, and told me that most of the Hispanic population around was from Mexico and Central America.  The immigrants worked in the Swift Meatpacking plant, because that plant always needed labor.   Beyond this, I gained little info – its possible he suspected I was an INS agent.

 

Later on, riding back to the hotel, I saw a young man on his bicycle, carrying, wrapped in newspaper, what was obviously a machete (at least obvious to me, having recently been in Nicaragua and seeing a lot of this.)  I infer that he was a recent arrival from the campo of Central America, as it is common there to carry a machete wherever you go, and this young man had not yet lost the custom. 

 

Returning to my room, I did a little internet research.  According to recent census data, about 21% of Worthington’s population is Hispanic, and 6% from Laos and Vietnam (mostly Hmong, I later learned) = presumably almost all arriving in the last several decades (hence the Spanish signs.)  This is a very high foreign-born percentage for a such a remote town in the heartland, rivaling many major cities, such as New York. 

 

Explanation:  Swift employs thousands.  Wages are kept as low as possible, and the manual labor jobs are among the most physically demanding and dangerous in industry, according to OSHA statistics.   Poor immigrants, desperate for work, will take these jobs, but few long term US residents (white or any other color) with options for other employment.  So Swift brings in the immigrants, or allows them to come in, sometimes with work visas, and sometimes not. (My roommate George, who hails from Minnesota, told me Swift was raided by INS recently and many undocumented workers were found.  But then, he also said that many of the cases are being appealed, as what worker carries around immigration documentation while working in a meatpacking plant?)  Doing a bit more digging, I learned that similar situations exist through the meat processing centers of the mid-west, such as Sioux Falls, with its giant Morrell plant (see picture). 

 

Of course, it is a vicious cycle – wages and working conditions are bad because immigrants can be found to do the work at these low rates.  And immigrants can be found because the wages are too low for other Americans.  But we all like cheap meat, and the corporations (meat-packers, driven by supermarket companies) compete to keep costs low for us, and this is one way to do it.  (Others include feedlots and hogbarns, massive antibiotic injections to promote growth, genetic manipulation, etc.)

 

My view on all of this, getting into the politics of immigration and “border security”: it really does not matter who gets elected – Republican or Democrat, McCain or Obama.  Essentially nothing will change, at least for the poorer immigrants, because the forces are entrenched and balanced to keep things as they are.  The voices of populism, racism and fear (presumably of terrorists, but really of changes in culture) want to keep “them” out.  Balancing this is the need in our economy for poor immigrants to do the jobs that we can not find sufficient longer-term American residents to do.  Meat-packers are only one example.  Think about picking fruit and vegetables; caring for the infirm elderly; labor for landscapers; the rough, dirty and temporary construction trades; dishwashers and other back-room restaurant help; etc., etc.   We need this labor, and the companies, large and small, want the labor both to keep their prices down and because the immigrants are generally excellent workers.  So despite the populist outcry, the forces of economics and the political influence of companies large and small will keep the immigrants coming in, wall or no wall on the border.  But these economic forces are not sufficient to make changes in the laws, as the politicians are too scared of the xenophobic vote.  It’s a draw, a hypocritical draw, grossly unfair to the hardworking immigrants.  But that’s how it will be for the foreseeable future. 

Meat packing plant - sioux Falls, SD

Meat packing plant - sioux Falls, SD

Comments

1

Hey John - pleased it's continuing to go well. Nice to see my empire has grown further!!! In line with your previous blog maybe I can start a franchise of small "Adrian" towns all built to specification!! As a Brit it's nice to see some recolonisation going on!!!

Really enjoying reading the blog......checking in every few days.

  Adrian Metcalf Jul 19, 2008 3:48 AM

2

John - further to my last post - I've put a pin in the map for a future visit. I never knew there was a place called "Adrian". Subsequent searches have uncovered 18 more franchises worlwide, 15 of which are in the US, 1 in Venezuela and 2 in Romania.
A new bike route for me maybe to do a tour of all 15 towns of "Adrian" in the US!
I also found 12 towns call "Keith", mostly US but also in Scotland (no suprise), Canada, Jamaica, Australia and Costa Rica, add to that a couple of Keith islands in Canada and a county in Nebraska. Gogin further add to that 10 towns call "John", mostly in Africa (Malawi, Liberia, Mozambique and Zambia), plus a river in Alaska.

  Adrian Metcalf Jul 19, 2008 3:56 AM

3

Adrian -- thanks for the info! Maybe John and I should tour the "Keith" empires -- my preference would be not to do it by bike! Oh, the things we learn from Google --
Carolyn

  carolyn keith Jul 19, 2008 8:13 AM

4

Huh, maybe I can get myself posted to John, Liberia or Keith, Costa Rica and send back pix. Also, I find it very interesting to learn that feces comes in a variety of smells depending on species. I always just thought it just smelled like shit.

  Amy Jul 20, 2008 8:01 AM

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With my bike in front of our Gardiner, NY cottage, the area where I trained before the trip.

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