Saturday
24th October
Jerash
Jordan
For
something different, our guide/driver was named Suleiman, not
Mohammad. We decided on a gentle start to the day and he met us at
11:00am in the lobby of our slightly less than salubrious hotel in
Amman. It's Jordanian three stars, which means two by any other
rating system. (But we've had worse, once!)
Our
track today began with the anti-crusader fortification of Ajlun
Castle. This was built in the 12th century by the nephew
of Saladin as as part of the fortifications between the trade and
pilgrim routes through Trans-Jordan. The castle sits on a momentous
high point that gives a stunning view right across the Jordan Vally
to Jerusalem. Unfortunately an unexpected dust storm diffused the
view.
Our
next stop was the city of Jerash, an ancient city that can boast 6500
years of continuous occupation. The city's golden age came under the
Roman rule and can be seen today in the remarkable colonnades,
soaring temples, impressive theatres (Jim felt very at home),
spacious public squares, a circus maximus (where the Jordanian army
mounts mock chariot races), ornate city walls pierced by towers and
gates and the remarkable Hadrian's Arch (He was such a busy little
builder).
We
arrived back to our hotel after a late lunch of delicious barbecued
meats, babaganoush and Jordanian breads. As a treat after all the
hard trekking in the last few days we booked ourselves in for another
Hammam/Turkish Bath, this time the famous Al-Pasha Turkish Bath of
Circle One.
Now
you might think that seeing as it's the most famous baths in the
country it would be easy to find ... No. The desk clerk of our hotel
had no idea, he then passed this no idea onto the taxi driver, who
proudly came to a stop outside another Turkish Bath on Circle Five.
(We had actually written the address down and checked it against the
advertising in the tourist magazine. Boy did they get it wrong).
Finally we made it to the right place and it was worth the hassle.
Al-Pasha
is built in grand proportions. The entrance is off a small road and
belies the size of the bath house. Upon entering you're met with a
vast relaxation/meeting space, with domed roof, fountain fishpond,
reclining chairs and tables with a few chess games going on, large
potted palms and walls covered with cabinets containing a collection
of musical instruments, old phones, camera and typewriters and an
eclectic variety of antiques from the past century.
The
bathing process was much the same as in Petra; Steam room, shower,
scrub and massage. But this time there was a dry sauna and spa pool
as well. We came out scrubbed clean and sooooo relaxed. We headed
straight home to bed even by-passing dinner. Another memorable day
in Jordan.
