Bocas Del Toro Panama
August 4 2010
Our first full day was spent just
walking around the place checking out the shops, having a coffee and
doing some grocery shopping. We have a great kitchen at the hostel
-only things missing are a microwave and a toaster. In the late
afternoon we walked down into some of the back streets where kids
were out riding their bikes and playing on the streets.We made it
down as far as the hospital- with a clearly marked morgue! - and the
local cemetery. Graves seem to be mostly above the ground-probably
due to a high water table-and many are tiled.
Tea was baked beans on toast-sounds
boring but it was very good! We sat up on the balcony and watched the
world go by-usually on foot or cruising by on large upright push
bikes-often with a child in the front basket or sitting on the
handelbars. Some bikes have a padded board on the bar between the
handlebar and the seat-especially for passengers.
August 5
Today we decided to go to Boca del
Drago-a beach on the western side of the island- about 30 mins away
by mini bus ($US5 return) through farmland and countryside. We saw
lots of old wooden plank huts on stilts where locals live-most of
them seem very poor. The bus dropped us off at the beginning of a
track around the beach-there is a restaurant there and a hostel but
not too much else. Further along are a couple of big places-one
looked like a swanky hotel or a very nice holiday home but closed up
for low season. However as we walked past we saw 2 pet monkeys no
bigger than a cat and with little white faces. The littlest one was
sitting on a tree branch and seemed a bit hesitant about moving along
it. She was making funny little sounds and squeaks and not at all
concerned about us taking photos of her. Meanwhile the bigger one,
wearing a harness, was prancing and jumping and leaping around all
over the place. He was digging in sand-at one stage he had his hand
down a crab hole trying to get the crab-he played with food bowls and
as Lynn was taking a photo of the little one he climbed up along a
branch and almost managed to grab her sunglasses! He was quite a
character! We walked along the beach with its white sand and palm
trees-the water was clear and warm and calm and it was so quiet and
peaceful. The beaches go on and on-we walked around a few bends and
came to Starfish beach-famous for all the starfish in he water. We
found a shady spot and lazed the day away-swimming and reading. We
had taken some food for a picnic-salad rolls for lunch!
We were catching the 5pm bus back so we
headed back around to the pickup point. The monkeys were still out
-this time joined by a big white dog with black patches over both
eyes. He had made a hollow in the sand to lie in and keep cool-sound
asleep. The cheeky monkey decided he wanted to play with him and
jumped on his head trying to wake him up-that didn't work-so he
jumped around and did somersaults on the dogs belly-that didn't work-
so he started squeezing the dogs balls-that worked! The dog didn't
seem overly concerned though-obviously this wasn't the first time-he
just got up, gave himself a shake and wandered off.
We had a coffee while we were waiting
and enjoyed the sea breeze-it was so hot and humid. When we got back
to town we went to the supermarket for supplies, came back to the
hostel and had a shower and a homemade Pina Colada. We cooked
ourselves a late tea-scrambled eggs on toast for me and creamed corn
on toast for Lynn. It was very quiet in the hostel-we seemed to be
the only ones about. It poured with rain about 9pm-a torrential
downpour. People in the bar across the street were having a merry old
time-singing and yahooing-apparently until quite late-but it didn't
bother me-I slept through it all.
August 6
Another very hot and humid day-too hot
to do anything much We whiled away the morning catching up on emails
and trying to sort out accommodation for Panama city. We chatted to a
Dutch girl and she gave us some useful tips about where and where not
to stay. She thought we were writing a travel guide because we were
sitting out on the balcony with our lonely Planets and numerous bits
of paper we use as memory joggers for our blog! We went and booked
bus tickets to Panama -$US20 for a 10 hour trip- and ended up back in
our little waterside restaurant having an iced coffee and reading
magazines. We both fancied a proper meal so we had a late lunch at a
little local eatery-stewed beef with rice and pasta salad-$US3.50.
Another night on the open air balcony where we watch the world go by
and enjoy the music from the bar over the street. The Pizza
restaurant was quiet as was the souvenir shop-those guys put in long
days -must be bored silly sometimes!
August 7
Today was dry and sunny so it was a
good day to catch a boat and go to Red Frog Beach on Isla
Bastimentos, parts of which are under protection of the Parque
Nacional Marino Isla Bastimentos . However Red Frog beach doesn't
fall into this zone and there is presently opposition to a huge
residential development being constructed there. There are concerns
about the environmental impact of this development both to marine
ecosystems and turtle nesting sites -locals also fear their access
will be limited. $US5 bought us a return ticket on a little
speedboat for the 10 minute trip across the channel and through some
mangroves to reach a floating jetty made of plastic. We caught sight
of a dolphin briefly-he seemed to be alone-no pod in sight. We have
not seen many birds on our travels-to my surprise. The only birds
today were a large eagle type and a couple of brown pelicans. We had
to pay $US3 to enter private land which gave us access to the
beach-imagine having to do that in OZ or NZ! We walked along a gravel
and sand road for about ten minutes and reached the beach- along
expanse of white sand with a backdrop of lush tropical growth and
clear, clean water. We found a shady spot and went in for a
swim-lovely and cool-and waves! There were signs warning of killer
waves and rip so we were cautious and swam where there were other
people. As the day went on more and more people arrived. There were
loungers and umbrellas set up but I think they were user pays. There
was a gang of locals busy sweeping up plant debris and seaweed
keeping the beach clean for us tourists. Some local kids came up with
large green leaves closed up in their hands -they opened them up and
inside in a little pool of water were tiny red frogs with black
spots- rana rojo (strawberry poison dart frog ) which may disappear
with the increasing development. It was a fitting way to end our
week on Bocas Del Toro-sun, surf and sand. It has been a week of
music,beaches, people watching, good food and the relaxed vibe of the
Carribean.
The Archipielago de Bocas del Toro
consists of six densely forested islands, scores of uninhabited
islets and Parque Nacional marino Isla Bastimentos, the countrys'
oldest marine park. Bocas has pristine beaches and a coral reef which
makes for great snorkelling and swimming. There are also great
surfing spots and its not uncommon to see tourists walking around
with a surfboard. The main destination is Bocas del Toro on Isla
Colon, the largest and most developed island and the provincial
capital, which still has some authentic Caribbean charm thanks to low
key development.-no huge mega hotels or chains -as yet. But since the
mid 1990s foreign investors have been buying land and building
restaurants, apartments and condos so things will change. It is
touristy but very laid back and friendly. The town was originally
built by the United Fruit Company in the early 20th century-lots of
old wooden houses-many past their best. The local population is made
up of Latinos, West Indians and lots of resident gringos-many middle
aged and older men. There is a police station, a fire station with
some older vehicles and a hospital. There is also an airport with
daily flights to Panama City and Costa Rica. There are plenty of
taxis-all utes and painted yellow with a black and white checked
strip along the side. Water taxis are plentiful and ready to whisk
you away to a deserted beach or snorkelling spot.
