We had a fast 100 km day following river to Muang Khiew, stopping en route to hand over school books. This evening we learned that the road to Dien Bien Phu was impassable (by our support vehicles any way). Adam has hired the only two vehicles reckoned to be capable (or willing to try the 75km to the border with Vietnam) - 2 ancient ex-military jeep-like vehicles driven by a couple of young Lao guys.
After crossing a swollen river we loaded the bags into one vehicle and ourselves into the other (except for 3 of us and 3 support staff with the bags). Our little convoy separated after 15kms when the 2nd vehicle with most of our group broke down. With limited comms our lead vehicle continued after stopping a few times to see if we we would be caught up. Eventually our driver sent word back via a passing traveller on a motor scooter and proceeded forward. All was going reasonably with our vehicle, which sounded like the a cross between a sick VW and an unmuffled motor mower, until we reached a Khmu village on hill top where the car coughed to a stop. The Khmu are the poorest people in Laos and we were easily the biggest event in the village. The guys rebuilt the gearbox in about an hour and we ploughed on haltingly until we reached a flooded river. This turned out to be the driver's hometown and we were taken to his father's house where we had a long lunch of his own homegrown rice, pork and river weed accommpanied by warm beer. At around 1.30 our second vehicle arrived and the fording of the river was discussed and undertaken (minus us and bags which crossed by footbridge). We were entertained by a bunch of Swiss on 4WD tour fording the river - we were taking bets against the Honda CX7 making it.
We then set off again with at least half our journey still to go and we been on the road since 8.00. The vehicles had reversed order and we were now trailing through streams, bogs and washaways and up some very high hills with precipices on one side. The scenery was spectacular at times but as "business class" meant sitting on my pack and other cases the view gave way to securing a little comfort . The vehicle failed to instill confidence making odd noise and coming to sudden halts from time to time. Finally it ground to a halt and the guys declared it stuffed. Nonetheless they pulled one of the drive shafts off and determined the problem to be a rear diff lacking oil. With the help of a drink bottle converted to oilcan we were able to set off with only rear wheel drive. It was getting late and steadily darker and we had 12-15 Kms go. The ride got quicker and the road steeper but we finally got to a large wash away two kms from the border which we negotiated successfully with some muddy feet. With the border building in sight at the top of a hill the vehicle stopped once more - out of petrol?
Rendra and I jumped out and decided to walk up the remaining km in the gathering dusk to advise of the situation. Lindsay stayed with the vehicle and bags.
With some more mucking around we got one of the vehicles and the bags up to the Lao Immigration building and did our exit arrangements by torchlight (with a small payment for "overtime"). Adam negotiated to get the vehicle to carry us a further few kms to the Viet entry point where we did our immigration requiremets and piled on to a bus to welcome Viet rolls, cheese and tomato and cans of Sprite.
It had taken 11 hours to do 75kms - our slowest for the trip.
We are now in Dien Bien Phu - rested and with new bikes ready to go again. We had a day tour of the War Museum, cemetery and the site of Giaps victory over the French in 1954. Tuan, our Viet guide, was a very informative speaker on the history of Vietnam's wars with China, France and America.
ps Both Laos and Vietnam still have Mirinda Orange in cans - in Laos it is called "Meeleenda" and in Vietnam " Fanta" (despite it being a Pepsi product labelled Mirinda). Taste not changed. I have come to appreciate sticky rice and confirmed my taste for pho.
Jao for now.
