I wrote too much again so here is the crib note version
I went to Oaxaca, had a great birthday, studied Spanish and got Montezuma´s revenge. Then San Cristobal where I visited a crazy church, rode a speedboat through canyons and spotted crocodiles. Went to the hippy commune that is Palenque, saw amazing ruins, swam in Agua Azul and met yet more cool people. Got a bus to Tulum and now here I am.
Now the long winded version for those of you with more time.
Saturday 23 March -
Saturday was an early start, (though it turned out not early enough) to catch the bus from Mexico City to Oaxaca. Tom and I left the hostel about half an hour before the bus left, supposedly only 15 minutes away by public transport and I stupidly didn't choose to get a taxi. I take full blame for us missing the bus.... the ‘15 minute’ trip took about 45 minutes (no errors mind you it was just because we took Mexican time too literally and I was just too lax about leaving early. Oh well, an expensive rookie error that taught me a lesson. So the first bus we could get was 3 hours later meaning a few hours to kill before the bus. The six hour trip next to an older mexican man travelling with his family was pretty uneventful given we hardly spoke any common language, we did manage a few sentences to be understood but that was hard enough. So essentially the bus was a great chance for me to lean on my fabulously comfortable travel pillow (no really) and catch up on some sleep. We got to Oaxaca around 7.30pm and caught a 40 pesos taxi (AU$3 ish) to the hostel.
{For any future travellers, the hostel we stayed was Hostel Don Nino on Pino Suarez 804. It is amazing, great facilities, really clean, lots of extra amenities, and heaps of extras like free filtered water to fill your water bottles, 3 areas to watch movies with bean bags and comfy couches (great for the many sick travellers suffering from Montezuma’s revenge), good breakfast included and cheap rates.}
We basically dumped our bags on arrival and decided to go and get some food. A reasonably big market square was directly across from the hostel so we decided to head there and managed to find a new friend along the way. Ata was a cool, chilled out, friendly, smiley Canadian born, Iranian-Filipino. He had plans to meet some Mexican friends he made that day on a tour so he joined us for food and later we joined him and his friends for drinks. Food was some quick street tacos from the market before meeting Ata’s friends back at the hostel. They had driven (which we weren’t expecting) and theoretically couldn´t fit us all. But in true mexican tradition, they squished us all in, Ata in the boot (4 wheel drive so not soooo bad) and we drove to the bars. This was Saturday night, on 23 March, meaning we would be out drinking at midnight AKA my birthday. The Mexicanos were really excited when they discovered it was my birthday, I got free drinks (from the bar) the band mentioned me and did a quick happy birthday and the whole bar celebrated with me. What a way to bring in a new year!
After lots of drinking, D&M’s with one young dama about relationships, shrugging off eager Mexican ombres and enjoying the live band (who surprisingly played a lot of songs I knew including things like the Arctic Monkeys) we all left and had a 3am feast. TOTALLY normal for the Mexicans. The traditional Mexican diner we went to was packed with people, chattering, laughing and having fun, as they typically don’t go out at all until late and are usually still socialising until 4am at least. Interestingly though I don’t remember seeing anyone I thought was really drunk. The food was great, the night was a blast and it was a great way to celebrate my birthday.
Sunday 24 March
On Sunday aka my birthday, Ata, Tom and I went off on a tour to see Mont Alban (Housing some of the many ruins in these parts of the world), a random but cool building that apparently was a convent but for men (¿?) at some point, a pottery workshop/shop and a place where they paint traditional Mexican figurines. Basically most of it was a bit crap, there was a lot of waiting around and the reason I’m so vague about what we saw is the guide pretty much spoke NO english. So we just trotted off on our own and looked at stuff without knowing what it was bar the few sentences of information in English on an occasional plaque at Mont Alban. We also went to a buffet for lunch for 120 pesos, or about AU$10.50 – expensive by Central American standards. While there was a LOT of food it was questionable what anything was and I think it probably left me feeling a bit worse after that.
On return to the hostel I met some fabulous young students who were visiting Oaxaca on their uni break. They were from all over the world but doing a year exchange at a university in Queretera to study spanish. One in particular, Emily from England, was absolutely hilarious and everything she said and did was highly entertaining and positive. She was someone I could spend a lot of time around and never get bored. So she’s probably going to be coming to visit me in Sydney at some point. I ended up joining Emily and her friends as well as Penelope who Tom, Ata and I had met on the tour for a healthy dinner (hard to find in Mexico). We had all planned to go out to a bar afterwards but bailed to go to bed as everyone was too tired.
Oaxaca
When I got to Oaxaca (pronounced kind of like Wahaka) I discovered that almost everyone I was coming across was taking at least a week of Spanish classes as part of their holidays. I´d already discovered I quite liked learning a bit of Spanish so decided to take on a week of classes and stay in Oaxaca longer than originally planned.
Alas, in oaxaca a lot of my time was spent lying around in bed sick - thought I was just not dealing with the food but a trip to the doctor after a week of queasiness, almost fainting, fevers etc confirmed a bacterial infection in my intestines. Nice. Getting sick while travelling isn't much fun, though I'm happy to say I didn't get home sick or anything I just felt sick. Bit of vomiting, bit of 'other stuff' lots of nausea and generally feeling like my brain was a pile of mashed potato however meant my week of Spanish classes didnt get me very far - so ´the plan now is to do a week long home-stay in Guatamala to have an intensive crash course in Spanish. Apparently you pay about $150 US for the week, get 4 hours of class each day, 3 meals with the family, accommodation and activities every day. I'd almost be cheating myself if I didn´t do it.
Socially in Oaxaca I mostly hung out with Tom and Francesca, an Aussie from Melbourne who was at the same hostel and had recommended Spanish Magic the school Tom and I took our classes at but I also met lots of other fabulous people.
Tom, Francesca, Lili our Spanish teacher and I went out one night to an amazing bar with fantastic live music. I´m finding it really interesting hanging out with a lot of people who speak different languages and the different way you have to communicate when the language isn´t common between people. Almost like regressing to being a child and relying on facial expressions and mime.
San cristobal
Day 1 in San cristobal was an early arrival after an overnight bus. I walked to the hostel (getting lost a few times on the way - not fun with a heavy pack on my back). On arrival when I rang the bell it was obvious I had just woken up Baxter - the kiwi working at Puerta Vieja Hostel some friends has told me about. He quickly checked me in, I dumped my bag and had breakfast with him before crashing for a few hours in an amazingly comfortable and cosy bed (a rare godsend in hostels). The afternoon was spent exploring the city, looking at markets and the Mayan medicine museum. The evening was out exploring the area with some new doing friends, Lindsay, (American who was also working at he hostel) Natalie (american doing a uni research assignment) and Baxter the kiwi. We went for a walk to a church at the Top of some massive stairs for a great view but on the way found something more fun and interesting instead. A few flights up there was a little food stand and the owners had 3 absolutely gorgeous, excitable and loving little girls. They were about 4, 6 & 7 but Mexicans are tiny and they looked at least a few years younger. We watched them run around squealing with laughter, come to us for cuddles and to be spun around around and they took my camera and had a great time taking photos of us all. Luckily my camera is waterproof and shock proof so I wasn´t too concerned about it getting broken. In the end the little girls were far more entertaining than the view at the top.
From there we had a drink at a wine bar and bailed back to sleep.
On day 2 in San cristobal I was meant to do a tour where you ride a horse into an ancient Indian village but Semana Sante (the Mexican break for Easter over 2 weeks) got in the way so it was cancelled. Instead Lindsay, Natalie, John (Aussie guy) and I got a collectivo in and explored on our own. The church there is a very interesting experience. For starters, there are pine needles all over the ground so it Smells like Christmas. Inside, the people practice spiritual rituals to assist in everything from health issues to lack of rain. Rituals include burning lots of specifically chosen candles, incense, posh (mexican moonshine) eggs and sacrifices - normally a chicken. We did see one poor little chicken with its head poking out of a plastic bag happily sitting on the ground unaware of its imminent fate. The herbs, candle colour and size etc are all chosen according to the issue they are praying for. Very interesting and packed with people on Semana Sante. For lunch the 4 of us shared an amazing meal of some roasted chicken, incredible fresh corn tortillas and yummy salsas for about 37 pesos each (about $3) before making our way back in the collectivo.
After all of the food we had a small dinner of fruit and some crunchy potato tacos, had a few drinks and crashed out.
Day 3 in San Cristobal included a tour to some nearby Canyons, Lindsay and I went together and had an amazing time on the speedboat zooming through the canyons, spotting crocodiles and watching the vultures eating their dead. We saw one pretty big croc who was so still it that it was only checking other people's comparative photos that convinced us he wasn't fake.
After the canyons we stopped in Chiapas de Corso a cute little town for lunch where I had the most amazing tacos of my trip so far. They were fresh corn tortillas, tinga chicken (fried up with spices tomato and onion), fresh coriander and onion, pickled onion, lime juice and amazing fresh salsa. Was so good and about $1 for the meal.
Along the way we also met Richard an English/Indian guy. I spent the afternoon post tour with him wandering around San cristobal drinking coffee and arranging the next leg of my journey. Dinner was some take away tamales (a dumpling sorta thing made with ground corn, meat and spices) and a few drinks at the campfire with yet more new friends from the hostel.
A 7am bus ride to Palenque introduced me to Don aka the Don show. He claims to be shy but he doesn't stop talking and his favourite topic by far is himself and followed closely by constant complaining. I got over it fast but somehow got stuck with him for the next 2 days. He was Irish born, but lived in Aus for 17 years and now lives in New York. He was about 62 and a good guy but painful. When we arrive in Palenque I stupidly took his advice on where to stay and ended up I a dodgy little cabana in the jungle at Jungle Palace. As I was only staying for a night I really just needed a bed and a shower but it wasn't very secure. All good though as there weren't any issues in the end and it was only about $8 for the night. Palenque was really not what I anticipated. It was like one big hippy commune, rasta hair everywhere, a strong smell of marijuana wherever you walked, I even had some guys offer for me to ´rent a hippie´. I just told them I didn´t need one and if I did I could get one for free. In the afternoon Don and I visited the Palenque ruins, some of the most amazing ruins I´ve seen so far, primarily because they are amidst a beautiful jungle. Add some waterfalls, beautiful stone staircases winding through the jungle and the actual ruin sites and it was a truly stunning place to visit.
In the morning we met Michel, an animated Belgian guy who ended up joining us on a trip to Agua Azul. It was quite a drama to convince the tour guide to take him as the bus was reasonably full. Very odd though as usually the Mexicanos will mash in more people than you would ever think would fit.
We visited a beautiful waterfall first (Cascadas de Misol-Ha) where I swam in a cave then bussed on to Cascadas de Agua Azul. What an INCREDIBLE place!!! We had 4 hours to explore the many waterfalls and pools, swim in incredible water and generally have fun. I took loads of photos and had an amazing time.
On return Michel, Don and I had drinks with a lovely couple we met on the tour, Lauren and Tania - one of the first gay couples I've met on this trip. I borrowed Michel's shower, had dinner with the rest of them then got a cab to the ADO (bus station) in hope of booking a last minute ticket to Tulum. I got one with about half an hour to wait and hopped on an overnight bus to Tulum. Thanks to travel sickness tablets and Zyrtec I slept most of the way.
Things I've learnt:
Life as the tall girl. In Australia I'm average height, but in Mexico GIANT. It's handy for taking photos and watching street performers but mostly I just feel big and gangly.
Mexicans have no qualms about openly picking noses and spitting in public.
It's worth paying the extra for a more comfortable bus on long trips.
People get funny about splitting change in Mexico - even though the amount being quibbled about is a matter of cents.
Palenque is like a hippy haven full of dreadlocks, marijuana and mushrooms.
You don't want to accidentally get stuck hanging out with someone you don't like.
Mexican children are beautiful but many are born into massive poverty and are doomed to sell food or nick-nacks to tourists for life.
Swimming with shoes on gives you foot cramp. And sometimes you will get burnt no matter how much sunblock is on.
If you think you shouldn't be there, you shouldn't.
Until next time! Hasta Luego!
I wrote too much again so here is the crib note version
I went to Oaxaca, had a great birthday, studied Spanish and got Montezuma´s revenge. Then San Cristobal where I visited a crazy church, rode a speedboat through canyons and spotted crocodiles. Went to the hippy commune that is Palenque, saw amazing ruins, swam in Agua Azul and met yet more cool people. Got a bus to Tulum and now here I am.
Now the long winded version for those of you with more time.
Saturday 23 March -
Saturday was an early start, (though it turned out not early enough) to catch the bus from Mexico City to Oaxaca. Tom and I left the hostel about half an hour before the bus left, supposedly only 15 minutes away by public transport and I stupidly didn't choose to get a taxi. I take full blame for us missing the bus.... the ‘15 minute’ trip took about 45 minutes (no errors mind you it was just because we took Mexican time too literally and I was just too lax about leaving early. Oh well, an expensive rookie error that taught me a lesson. So the first bus we could get was 3 hours later meaning a few hours to kill before the bus. The six hour trip next to an older mexican man travelling with his family was pretty uneventful given we hardly spoke any common language, we did manage a few sentences to be understood but that was hard enough. So essentially the bus was a great chance for me to lean on my fabulously comfortable travel pillow (no really) and catch up on some sleep. We got to Oaxaca around 7.30pm and caught a 40 pesos taxi (AU$3 ish) to the hostel.
{For any future travellers, the hostel we stayed was Hostel Don Nino on Pino Suarez 804. It is amazing, great facilities, really clean, lots of extra amenities, and heaps of extras like free filtered water to fill your water bottles, 3 areas to watch movies with bean bags and comfy couches (great for the many sick travellers suffering from Montezuma’s revenge), good breakfast included and cheap rates.}
We basically dumped our bags on arrival and decided to go and get some food. A reasonably big market square was directly across from the hostel so we decided to head there and managed to find a new friend along the way. Ata was a cool, chilled out, friendly, smiley Canadian born, Iranian-Filipino. He had plans to meet some Mexican friends he made that day on a tour so he joined us for food and later we joined him and his friends for drinks. Food was some quick street tacos from the market before meeting Ata’s friends back at the hostel. They had driven (which we weren’t expecting) and theoretically couldn´t fit us all. But in true mexican tradition, they squished us all in, Ata in the boot (4 wheel drive so not soooo bad) and we drove to the bars. This was Saturday night, on 23 March, meaning we would be out drinking at midnight AKA my birthday. The Mexicanos were really excited when they discovered it was my birthday, I got free drinks (from the bar) the band mentioned me and did a quick happy birthday and the whole bar celebrated with me. What a way to bring in a new year!
After lots of drinking, D&M’s with one young dama about relationships, shrugging off eager Mexican ombres and enjoying the live band (who surprisingly played a lot of songs I knew including things like the Arctic Monkeys) we all left and had a 3am feast. TOTALLY normal for the Mexicans. The traditional Mexican diner we went to was packed with people, chattering, laughing and having fun, as they typically don’t go out at all until late and are usually still socialising until 4am at least. Interestingly though I don’t remember seeing anyone I thought was really drunk. The food was great, the night was a blast and it was a great way to celebrate my birthday.
Sunday 24 March
On Sunday aka my birthday, Ata, Tom and I went off on a tour to see Mont Alban (Housing some of the many ruins in these parts of the world), a random but cool building that apparently was a convent but for men (¿?) at some point, a pottery workshop/shop and a place where they paint traditional Mexican figurines. Basically most of it was a bit crap, there was a lot of waiting around and the reason I’m so vague about what we saw is the guide pretty much spoke NO english. So we just trotted off on our own and looked at stuff without knowing what it was bar the few sentences of information in English on an occasional plaque at Mont Alban. We also went to a buffet for lunch for 120 pesos, or about AU$10.50 – expensive by Central American standards. While there was a LOT of food it was questionable what anything was and I think it probably left me feeling a bit worse after that.
On return to the hostel I met some fabulous young students who were visiting Oaxaca on their uni break. They were from all over the world but doing a year exchange at a university in Queretera to study spanish. One in particular, Emily from England, was absolutely hilarious and everything she said and did was highly entertaining and positive. She was someone I could spend a lot of time around and never get bored. So she’s probably going to be coming to visit me in Sydney at some point. I ended up joining Emily and her friends as well as Penelope who Tom, Ata and I had met on the tour for a healthy dinner (hard to find in Mexico). We had all planned to go out to a bar afterwards but bailed to go to bed as everyone was too tired.
Oaxaca
When I got to Oaxaca (pronounced kind of like Wahaka) I discovered that almost everyone I was coming across was taking at least a week of Spanish classes as part of their holidays. I´d already discovered I quite liked learning a bit of Spanish so decided to take on a week of classes and stay in Oaxaca longer than originally planned.
Alas, in oaxaca a lot of my time was spent lying around in bed sick - thought I was just not dealing with the food but a trip to the doctor after a week of queasiness, almost fainting, fevers etc confirmed a bacterial infection in my intestines. Nice. Getting sick while travelling isn't much fun, though I'm happy to say I didn't get home sick or anything I just felt sick. Bit of vomiting, bit of 'other stuff' lots of nausea and generally feeling like my brain was a pile of mashed potato however meant my week of Spanish classes didnt get me very far - so ´the plan now is to do a week long home-stay in Guatamala to have an intensive crash course in Spanish. Apparently you pay about $150 US for the week, get 4 hours of class each day, 3 meals with the family, accommodation and activities every day. I'd almost be cheating myself if I didn´t do it.
Socially in Oaxaca I mostly hung out with Tom and Francesca, an Aussie from Melbourne who was at the same hostel and had recommended Spanish Magic the school Tom and I took our classes at but I also met lots of other fabulous people.
Tom, Francesca, Lili our Spanish teacher and I went out one night to an amazing bar with fantastic live music. I´m finding it really interesting hanging out with a lot of people who speak different languages and the different way you have to communicate when the language isn´t common between people. Almost like regressing to being a child and relying on facial expressions and mime.
San cristobal
Day 1 in San cristobal was an early arrival after an overnight bus. I walked to the hostel (getting lost a few times on the way - not fun with a heavy pack on my back). On arrival when I rang the bell it was obvious I had just woken up Baxter - the kiwi working at Puerta Vieja Hostel some friends has told me about. He quickly checked me in, I dumped my bag and had breakfast with him before crashing for a few hours in an amazingly comfortable and cosy bed (a rare godsend in hostels). The afternoon was spent exploring the city, looking at markets and the Mayan medicine museum. The evening was out exploring the area with some new doing friends, Lindsay, (American who was also working at he hostel) Natalie (american doing a uni research assignment) and Baxter the kiwi. We went for a walk to a church at the Top of some massive stairs for a great view but on the way found something more fun and interesting instead. A few flights up there was a little food stand and the owners had 3 absolutely gorgeous, excitable and loving little girls. They were about 4, 6 & 7 but Mexicans are tiny and they looked at least a few years younger. We watched them run around squealing with laughter, come to us for cuddles and to be spun around around and they took my camera and had a great time taking photos of us all. Luckily my camera is waterproof and shock proof so I wasn´t too concerned about it getting broken. In the end the little girls were far more entertaining than the view at the top.
From there we had a drink at a wine bar and bailed back to sleep.
On day 2 in San cristobal I was meant to do a tour where you ride a horse into an ancient Indian village but Semana Sante (the Mexican break for Easter over 2 weeks) got in the way so it was cancelled. Instead Lindsay, Natalie, John (Aussie guy) and I got a collectivo in and explored on our own. The church there is a very interesting experience. For starters, there are pine needles all over the ground so it Smells like Christmas. Inside, the people practice spiritual rituals to assist in everything from health issues to lack of rain. Rituals include burning lots of specifically chosen candles, incense, posh (mexican moonshine) eggs and sacrifices - normally a chicken. We did see one poor little chicken with its head poking out of a plastic bag happily sitting on the ground unaware of its imminent fate. The herbs, candle colour and size etc are all chosen according to the issue they are praying for. Very interesting and packed with people on Semana Sante. For lunch the 4 of us shared an amazing meal of some roasted chicken, incredible fresh corn tortillas and yummy salsas for about 37 pesos each (about $3) before making our way back in the collectivo.
After all of the food we had a small dinner of fruit and some crunchy potato tacos, had a few drinks and crashed out.
Day 3 in San Cristobal included a tour to some nearby Canyons, Lindsay and I went together and had an amazing time on the speedboat zooming through the canyons, spotting crocodiles and watching the vultures eating their dead. We saw one pretty big croc who was so still it that it was only checking other people's comparative photos that convinced us he wasn't fake.
After the canyons we stopped in Chiapas de Corso a cute little town for lunch where I had the most amazing tacos of my trip so far. They were fresh corn tortillas, tinga chicken (fried up with spices tomato and onion), fresh coriander and onion, pickled onion, lime juice and amazing fresh salsa. Was so good and about $1 for the meal.
Along the way we also met Richard an English/Indian guy. I spent the afternoon post tour with him wandering around San cristobal drinking coffee and arranging the next leg of my journey. Dinner was some take away tamales (a dumpling sorta thing made with ground corn, meat and spices) and a few drinks at the campfire with yet more new friends from the hostel.
A 7am bus ride to Palenque introduced me to Don aka the Don show. He claims to be shy but he doesn't stop talking and his favourite topic by far is himself and followed closely by constant complaining. I got over it fast but somehow got stuck with him for the next 2 days. He was Irish born, but lived in Aus for 17 years and now lives in New York. He was about 62 and a good guy but painful. When we arrive in Palenque I stupidly took his advice on where to stay and ended up I a dodgy little cabana in the jungle at Jungle Palace. As I was only staying for a night I really just needed a bed and a shower but it wasn't very secure. All good though as there weren't any issues in the end and it was only about $8 for the night. Palenque was really not what I anticipated. It was like one big hippy commune, rasta hair everywhere, a strong smell of marijuana wherever you walked, I even had some guys offer for me to ´rent a hippie´. I just told them I didn´t need one and if I did I could get one for free. In the afternoon Don and I visited the Palenque ruins, some of the most amazing ruins I´ve seen so far, primarily because they are amidst a beautiful jungle. Add some waterfalls, beautiful stone staircases winding through the jungle and the actual ruin sites and it was a truly stunning place to visit.
In the morning we met Michel, an animated Belgian guy who ended up joining us on a trip to Agua Azul. It was quite a drama to convince the tour guide to take him as the bus was reasonably full. Very odd though as usually the Mexicanos will mash in more people than you would ever think would fit.
We visited a beautiful waterfall first (Cascadas de Misol-Ha) where I swam in a cave then bussed on to Cascadas de Agua Azul. What an INCREDIBLE place!!! We had 4 hours to explore the many waterfalls and pools, swim in incredible water and generally have fun. I took loads of photos and had an amazing time.
On return Michel, Don and I had drinks with a lovely couple we met on the tour, Lauren and Tania - one of the first gay couples I've met on this trip. I borrowed Michel's shower, had dinner with the rest of them then got a cab to the ADO (bus station) in hope of booking a last minute ticket to Tulum. I got one with about half an hour to wait and hopped on an overnight bus to Tulum. Thanks to travel sickness tablets and Zyrtec I slept most of the way.
Things I've learnt:
Life as the tall girl. In Australia I'm average height, but in Mexico GIANT. It's handy for taking photos and watching street performers but mostly I just feel big and gangly.
Mexicans have no qualms about openly picking noses and spitting in public.
It's worth paying the extra for a more comfortable bus on long trips.
People get funny about splitting change in Mexico - even though the amount being quibbled about is a matter of cents.
Palenque is like a hippy haven full of dreadlocks, marijuana and mushrooms.
You don't want to accidentally get stuck hanging out with someone you don't like.
Mexican children are beautiful but many are born into massive poverty and are doomed to sell food or nick-nacks to tourists for life.
Swimming with shoes on gives you foot cramp. And sometimes you will get burnt no matter how much sunblock is on.
If you think you shouldn't be there, you shouldn't.
Until next time! Hasta Luego!
