Tam Coc means three caves, and is about a two hour drive from Hanoi to the South. I took a minibus there followed by a little boat rowed by two locals (with their feet) along the Ngo Dong river, through limestone mountains, which stretched for several kilometres along the river.
We rowed through three caves on the river (battling claustrophobia), that were all created by wind and water from 'legend times' apparently, when the sea had occupied the area. The tide-mark is still on the rock about 2m above the water, and in higher parts of the mountain wall the erosion has carved unusual caves and platforms that now house grassy areas and mountain goats.
Along the way there were local people just doing their thing, harvesting the water rice planted along the river, and transplanting seedling for the next crops. At the end I was bombarded by dozens of Vietnamese women in boats trying to sell me the equivalent of the contents of a 7 Eleven from their row boat as they pulled up alongside my boat; and they do not take no for an answer.
From there I went to Hoa Lu, which is about 10 minutes from Tam Coc, and is a site of relics from the ancient capital Hoa Lu – the remains there are the temples dedicated to King Dinh and King Le, the two heroes who lived in 10th century and chose Hoa Lu to build the citadel of the capital city. The site was considered a suitable choice back then due to its proximity to China and the natural protection afforded by the region's bizarre landscape.
Interestingly, Queen Duong Van Ng married both of the kings one after the other; the equivalent of marrying Jonny Howard and then KRudd...eew!
