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Understanding a Culture through Food - Going Slow with Ceviche

BELIZE | Wednesday, 17 April 2013 | Views [236] | Scholarship Entry

In an age of instant gratification, having to wait can be a bit of a challenge. With food so fast we don’t get out of the car and noodles taking just two minutes to cook, we are used to having what we want when we want. With online shopping, 24 hour restaurants, nightclubs, museums and galleries, there is always something to do and slowing down can be hard. The residents of Caye Caulker, Belize, have managed to remain unaffected by the dizzying pace kept by the rest of the world. The ‘go slow’ mentality and relaxed culture of Caye Caulker is steeped into every aspect of life there and is even evident in the food.

I arrived in Caye Caulker still buzzing after a month of hopping around Guatemala rammed in chicken buses. Incapable of lazing the days away baking in the sun I squirmed with restlessness and looked for activities to occupy myself. While out on a four hour snorkelling trip, myself and the other passengers grew increasingly hungry waiting for lunch while the cook, Patrick, went for a swim. I watched Patrick having a grand time frolicking and diving while I wasted away. When he finally climbed aboard I offered to help, hoping to speed up the process of making lunch. It was then I noticed he had several large conch shells which I was informed were to be our lunch. The conch was chopped, added to a big bowl along with onion, tomato, coriander, chilli and lime juice and served with crunchy tortilla chips. The simple flavours and the freshness of the dish was unbelievable and remains one of the best things I’ve ever eaten. It was such an organic experience – being out on the water, under the sun, eating something plucked straight out of the ocean, definitely worth the wait!

The crew decided to cut the engine and let the tide bring us back to the island. We sat there in silence eating and watching the sun turn into a huge blood orange. It was then that I felt myself decompress. I felt like I had freed myself of something, though I didn’t know quite what.

The ‘four hour snorkelling day trip’ ended up taking 9 hours. We didn't get back until after dark and I didn't mind one bit. I spent the rest of my time in Caye Caulker embracing the relaxed lifestyle and appreciating the comforting lull of island time and life.

While waiting for the boat to take me back to the chaos, smog and traffic of Belize City, I noticed a bright mosaic decorating the pier. In white, were the words 'Go Slow'. I hadn't seen that on arrival... I guess I was moving too fast.

Tags: Travel Writing Scholarship 2013

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