Eight
months has passed since our return from RWT-1 and what a life here at Blue Bay
it was! Living in small one bedroom unit just 300m from beautiful beach was
comfortably easy and we had no difficulties to adjust to such lifestyle… but
it’s time to go to another adventure trip. The only issue making this somewhat
difficult will be eight months absence from children and sweet grandchildren. Well,
we’ll see them again soon.
As little
warm-up first we explore Tasmania for 11 days
before we fly to Sri Lanka.
Saturday,
20 March we arrive to Launceston only to discover that Bargain Rentals
completely stuffed up our booking for a campervan. No one is in the office; guy
who answers mobile (previously given to us by Bargain Rentals) does not know
anything about our booking but promised to get someone soon. Manager Tim gets
very rude and abusive refusing to accept any responsibility. After few hours
and many arguments he offers smaller campervan from Tassie Motor Shack. Having
no other option we accept and by 5pm we leave Launceston to start exploring Tasmania, and we do it
in a clockwise direction. Apparently sun does not go down until about 7pm so we
should be able to make it to St. Helen on the east coast before sunset. Our
first evening at local caravan park is quiet and cold … we are not used these
sort of temperatures. After dinner at local RSL we found nice refuge under duna
inside our new home. Morning is grey and occasional drizzle rules out any trips
to Bay of Fires, at least for now. Instead we
decide to explore area around Weldborough starting with 90m Colombo waterfalls and amazing surrounding
rainforest, then visit to cheese factory followed by apple-cider on tap at
historic hotel. Extra adrenalin comes with our car getting stuck on sandy road
– Iva tries to help pushing but car slips further and further down the hill.
Rocks and sand fly from rear tires and I feel suddenly very cold. How the heck are
we going to get out of this forest? We need to prevent further slipping so we
place few large rocks behind back wheels, offload heavy backpacks and with
Iva’s strong determination I manage to get car back on flatter part of the road. Soon we are back on bitumen thinking
whether we should take this campervan off-road again. Late afternoon clearing weather
looks promising and we head off to Bay
of Fires. Tonight we stay
at free camping grounds right on the beach. Bright starry night is peaceful and
also very cold but 7am sunrise seen from our car-bed more then compensates for
all sufferings. What followed that day blew our minds away – stunning turquoise
waters blended with hot orange algae covered rocks forms surreal natural
mosaic. Truly spectacular! Taking pictures, more pictures, just can’t stop… but
once more it’s time to move on and by mid-afternoon we arrive to Bicheno.
Distances in Tasmania
are relatively short and roads are good with little traffic so on average we
spend no more then a couple of hours behind the wheel every day. Bicheno is
famous for colonies of little penguins living on its shore and tonight we are
going on a mission. By 9pm whispering and shivering we hide amongst large
boulders but no sightings of these small cute creatures so we decide to call
the mission off. Next morning locals tell us we should have waited much longer.
Perhaps we should, but who knows…?
Few
scrambled eggs for breakfast is a good start and by 9am we follow the coast
further south to reach Freycinet
National Park before
lunch. Almost clear skies look promising – with our daypacks filled with water
and few sandwiches we start 7km return hike to Wineglass Bay beach… and what a
view from the lookout!!! Turquoise water in this nicely curved bay is plain amazing
and we cannot resist to take many pictures we used to know only from postcards.
Another hour of somewhat steeper descent down to the beach is just as rewarding
- sitting on beach we eat our lunch while we soak up the serenity of this
place. Well worth the effort … well we still have to make it back to the car
park. Unfortunately we did not pre-book a camp site at the park and ranger
suggests we can stay 8km west of Coles
Bay town. Before retiring
for the day we make a short trip to the lighthouse with nice views. Small
campfire keeps us warm as well as a bottle of red. Wednesday morning we leave
fairly early because we want to catch ferry to Maria Island
… to our disappointment we miss the ferry by half an hour. Hmm, never mind,
we’ll do something else. No point waiting here for another day we decide to
continue further south. At 5pm Port
Arthur becomes our new home base for tonight. Short
sightseeing and dinner at local pub is all we can manage before calling the day
off, tomorrow we’ll have early morning. It is still dark when alarm goes off. While
everyone is still sleeping we quietly leave caravan park for few hours drive to
Bruny Island ferry which leaves at 9:30am and
we cannot miss it. All worked out ok and by 11am we sit on a 2x400hp speed boat,
sharing it with another 20 people for next three hours. Unforgettable
experience! Not those 20 people… dramatic coastline and abundant wildlife were
stars of the show. Few large colonies of seals inhabit the most southern tip of
the island where Pacific and South oceans meet showing off their powers. Strong
waves play with our boat and standing up while taking photos takes some good
balancing skills. Truly amazing boat trip this was. Driving back to ferry we
stop at narrow neck joining south and north Bruny islands only to discover many
fairy penguins found their homes on slopes by the beach. Late afternoon we arrive
to Hobart to
meet my daughter Monika and we all enjoy nice dinner at Drunken Admiral
restaurant. Friday morning after breaky and few farewell hugs we stop at
Cadbury Chocolate factory on the way to western half of Tasmania. Needles to say what chocoholics do
at such place … mnam,mnam. Soo many calories need to be burnt and what a better
place then to stop at Mount
Field National
Park for short walk to nearby waterfalls through
lush rainforest. Very satisfying! Chocolate and rainforest too. Landscape starts
to rapidly change as we drive further to the north-west. Tasmanian
hydroelectric system exploiting 100’s of meters of gravity is pretty impressive
and we start to appreciate dramatic ruggedness of this part of Tasmania. At 5pm we
finally arrive at Lake St Clare. It is very cold, the National Park office is
already closed and there is only one (and not exactly cheap) pub opened at Derwent Bridge. Camping site in the National
Park is ridiculously expensive but we strike lucky with the owner of local petrol
station and he let us to stay at adjacent car park. Hot soup for dinner keeps
our bodies warm for a couple of hours and only bed and duna can save us from
freezing. Next morning after breakfast we enjoy a short walk by the lake
looking for elusive platypus with no luck of any sightings. Staff at the Info
centre is very helpful providing maps and hints on “not to be missed” places – Franklin River rainforest and Nelson waterfalls are
just few mentioned. Descent from the Franklin-Gordon N.P. plateau to Queenstown
is quite chilling and I would not want our car breaks to fail now. Mining
activity in this region is evident and the moon-like landscape lacks any green
growth. Big difference to what we saw just short while ago. We had no plans to
stay here but closer look at the town changed our minds … tomorrow we could
ride historic steam train from Queenstown to Strahan. Very tempting indeed! On
the train we learn short history of mining presented in very entertaining way
by young tourist guide … with hints of serious and visible ecological damage
done to the area over time. Hopefully the river will have its life back in not
so distant future. We also tried our own gold panning skills … and bingo! Iva
found a speck of pure gold which would easily sell at $25! … but instead of
increasing our asset base she decides to keep it as souvenir. The four hour
trip is definitely worth of every penny as steam engine puffs up 1:16 rail
slope through the most beautiful rainforest, once away from Queenstown. Late
afternoon we return back to Queenstown by bus and continue little further north
so we get closer to Cradle Mountain N.P. Weather has turned bad, it is raining
and cold. Free camping site near Tuloch recommended by a tourist book had long
time been converted into a rubbish dump. An alternative is to stay somewhere in
bush, which seemed a good idea until Iva found few cuddly leaches around her
ankles. Hey, do not panic! They are not deadly .. just ugly .. and maybe hungry
too. Monday 29 March is the day we are going to see the most talked about
attraction in Tasmania – Cradle Mountain.
Weather is still pretty bad but we are determined to walk 6km around The Dove
Lake, does not matter what. Equipped with Gortex jackets and beanies we start
the hike. Can not be more lucky … clouds are receding and sunny breaks become
frequent. The lake path is simply amazing, one cannot resist thinking that if
ferries exist they must live here. The Cradle Mountain
undressed from its white veil of clouds for few seconds here and then and we take
every opportunity to shoot from many angels. Not having enough of nature’s
serenity we extend our hike by another few km to Ronies Creek where we are
lucky again – echidna crossed the board-walk that close Iva almost stepped on
her. Ten minutes later Iva meets a wombat face to face. It is truly her day!
Tired but excited
we return to car park and shortly continue our journey to Doloraine where we
stay in a caravan park over night. Tomorrow we spare for Launceston, on our
last day of this trip we’d like to visit Cataract Gorge. It is unusual to find
such a wild nature walk right in the middle of town and 6km round hike with two
suspension bridges is quite an attraction for locals and visitors. A visit to
Josef Chromy winery was disappointing because we just missed the lunch time and
Mr. Josef Chromy (migrated to Tasmania from Czechoslovakia
after IIWW) has been away. We drive to nearby Evendale where local markets
grounds can be used for overnight campers. Baked beans and sausage provide fuel
for last night sleep. Large disk of full moon rising above horizon will not
help good sleep tonight. By 8am we return the van at the airport and shortly after
we see Tasmania from the air heading towards Melbourne.
There were
two reasons to stay at Melbourne – Gypsy Kings concert tonight is main one;
secondly budget airline AirAsia does not operate from Sydney. Hotel Cosmopolitan at St Kilda
exceeds our expectations as staff upgraded our accommodation from Basic to
Deluxe upon arrival. Soaking up Melbournian lifestyle we enjoy meals and few
bears in all sorts of pubs and cafes for next few days. After all we have
nothing else to do. Gypsy Kings did not disappoint and audience including two
of us could not ignore the persuasive rhythms.
Saturday 3
April at 01:45 after midnight we leave Australia
for eight months backpacking trip starting at Sri Lanka.