I had some time to kill before flying home to Canada, so I decided to go to Budapest for a few days. I saw a magnet on Len's fridge that said Budapest, and figured Why not?
Budapest (pronounced Bu-da-pesht, not pest – like a bug) is the capital of Hungary. It is situated on the Danube river. The Buda side is on the hilly, fault line of the west bank and the Pest side is on the flat east bank. Rumor has it that the Hungary came from Atila the Hun and the Buda side was named after his brother, but this has not been substantiated. The country did change hands many times in its 2000 year history. It has been ruled and “liberated” by the Romans (founding it), then the Christians, then the Mongols, the Ottoman, Habsburg, Nazis, Soviets until it finally became part of the European Union in 2004. The history of Budapest is long and colorful, and much too long to put in a blog. https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Budapestandhttp://wikitravel.org/en/Budapest have really good articles on it.
I took a taxi to the Happy Budapest, which was close enough to everything that I wanted to see and do yet far enough that it was super cheap. It was a decent accommodation, with a private kitchen and bedroom but had a shared bathroom with the host family.
I went for an exploratory walk along the Andrassy avenue toward the river. I had not gone far when I came upon the Miniversum. A new tourist attraction that opened in 2013, the Miniversum is basically a model train exhibit on steroids. The city of Budapest is laid out in perfect miniature detail. The exhibit takes into account the modern city and the past – when it was ruled by communists, the countryside, farms, and mountains. The details are extraordinary and one has to really take one's time and have a good look. There is a scene with travelers loading luggage into a van, several construction scenes with cranes, loaders and construction workers, a market scene where a man fell scattering his produce across the sidewalk, a wedding scene in a church, a beach and boating scene, a funeral, a mechanic changing a tire, a horse drawn cart, a traffic accident, and even someone getting mugged. These are only a few examples of the detail. I thought I was going to go in and have a quick look. 2 hours later I was being told the exhibit was closing and I must come back another time.
It was not getting late and I wanted to have my dinner before it got too dark for me to find my way home. The nearby and beautiful Callas Restaurant was just across the lane from the State Opera House. It had a grand dining room with a high vaulted ceiling. It was a bit early for the regular dinner crowd and I had the place to myself. I would have eaten on the patio with the Opera House beside me had it not been raining. I satisfied myself by sitting directly across from the open patio doors.
Walking back to my room I saw a group of people on a beer peddle cart. They sat facing each other with a beer table in the center. They all had to keep peddling in order to move forward. It was the first I had ever seen such a vehicle, but would not be my last during my time in Budapest. It looked like great fun and appeared to be a legal form of drinking and driving – but they were not actually driving.
The next day I took a walking tour that started near the Mihály Vörösmarty Statue. He was a poet and dramatist.
Our guide's name was Orshe. She had a funny story so we would remember it. She was introducing the other female guides, as there were lots of people and we had to be broken up into three groups. She said we could follow this one (name given), or she (name given), Orshe (pointing at herself). She started by saying that Hungarian is one of the hardest languages on earth and has one of the longest words, too. Megszentségteleníthetetlenségeskedéseitekért, with 44 letters. (If you think I actually remembered this without Google, you are crazy!) It means “for your [plural] continued behavior as if you could not be desecrated”. (Google, again) Personally, I think it is not a single word, but a phrase said while mumbling. At any rate, she quickly got our attention with her humor and I was fortunate to be standing in the area she selected to guide.
We walked toward the Danube to catch a fantastic view of the Buda Castle on the opposite bank. As we walked along the promenade we came to the Statue of the Little Princess, perched on the fence along the metro line tracks. The artist modeled this statue after his 5 year old daughter who like to pretend her bathrobe was her mantle while wearing a paper crown. It is considered good luck if you rub her knee. It is a darling little sculpture that has become a symbol of Budapest.
Budapest is rich with many statues, some whimsical, others are of historical significance, local heroes and celebrities, and some are mythical.
We then stopped at Jozsef Nador square. He was the 7th son of the Habsburg Emperor Leopold. He was an advocate of city planning, public works and constructions, which helped to turn Budapest into a metropolis. His statue faces the city that was developed during his tenure. Beside the park, on his right stands the Ministry of National Economy building.
From there we went to Erzsébet Square. It is the largest green area in Budapest's inner city, laid out with flowerbeds, walking paths and benches. Trees provide ample shade. The square was named after Elisabeth, 'Sisi', wife of Habsburg Emperor Franz Joseph, in 1858. Then renamed to Stalin in 1946 and to then to Engels in 1953, only to get its original name back in 1990.
The square's main attraction is the Danubius Fountain, built in 1880 and moved to this location after WWII. It stands in the middle of the square and symbolizes Hungary's rivers. The fountain shows a statue of Danubius, who personifies the river Danube, standing on a dolphin. Below him are three female figures, allegorical representations of tributaries of the Danube: Tisza, Dráva and Sava. It is a lovely meeting place for people to wait for fellow companions.
Across the park and across the street stood a very old building that had a lot of style to it. I asked the guide about it and she said it used to be a mercantile exchange but was now divided into flats. I couldn't help but think what a wonderful place that would be to live.
We carried on to St. Stephen's Basilica. This Roman Catholic Basilica was named in honor of Stephen, the first King of Hungary. It is the 3rd highest church in Hungary, at 96 meters, and is equal in height with the Hungarian Parliament Building. This symbolizes that worldly and spiritual thinking have the same importance. It was completed in 1905 after 54 years of construction. Much of the delay can be attributed to the dome collapsing in 1868 and required much of the completed work to be rebuilt. The southern bell weighs in at 9 tonnes. One can take an elevator up to the dome for a 360 degree view of the city. It is a better view than the giant ferris wheel, which is nearby. For a much smaller fee one can climb the 364 stairs. In taking the stairs one goes through a small gallery. A nice little break from climbing.
The interior of the Basilica is much the same as most other old churches. It is built in a Neo-Classical architectural style with a cross ground plan. There are statues of saints and cherubs resting over doorways and arches. The stained glass windows are beautiful, as is the lighted dome over the alter.
What makes this Basilica stand out is that is has the “incorruptible [mummified] right hand” of King Stephen (St. Stephen or Istvan), the first Christian Hungarian king (1000-1038) stored in a reliquary. It is rumored to do miracles. It looks downright creepy, despite its adornment of brocade. One has to deposit about $2 CDN to get a light to shine on it for approximately 2 minutes, which is not a long time when you are the one who has been depositing the coins and not getting your camera ready, like everyone else who saw you depositing the coins, and then fighting to get a good vantage point between said people. I guess it is a miracle if you can get a good photo.
I went back to St. Stephen's for an organ concert one evening. The ambiance for the opera singer singing Ave Maria was amazing, but I was not enamored with the organ music. It was a cross between church and horror movie music – sounding lovely until the dramatic long, low note (don't go in there, Martha....). I ended up leaving early, sorry that I did not stay in Memorial Park for the free concert going on there. (More on Memorial Park later)
Further along our guided tour we came to another lucky statue, The Hungarian Policeman. It was built in the 1900’s to commemorate a certain officer who always had a smile on his face and a twinkle in his eye. He stands on a corner, hands behind his back, guarding a Costa Coffee. Legend says he loved to flirt with the ladies while eating and if you rub his ample belly you will be lucky in love.
We stopped at a bust of Franz Liszt, famous 19th-century and best know Hungarian composer, virtuoso pianist, conductor, and music teacher.
We carried on past the beautiful Four Seasons Hotel Gresham Palace, facing the River Danube. It was completed in the early 20th century as an office and apartment building. The gates alone indicated that it was an expensive, luxury hotel. The Rolls Royce parked in front emphasized it further. Apparently the interior is breathtaking, but I didn't even try to enter – dressed in my Camino worn hiking boots and trousers. (Side note: When I got home I watched the movie Spy with Melissa McCarthy and was quite pleased to recognize the same location.)
Adjacent to the Hotel and past Széchenyi Square, we stopped for a photo op at the University of Technology and Economics. Founded in 1782, it was the first institute in Europe to train engineers at university level, and is considered the world's oldest Institute of Technology.
During winter, the river froze making crossing possible; however, there were times when the weather changed abruptly and people got stuck on one side. In 1820, this happened to Count István Széchenyi, when he had to wait a week to get to his father's funeral. This experience led him to decide that a permanent bridge had to be built. He became a major advocate of the project and founded a society to finance and build the bridge.
Across the street (tour guides have the authority to stop traffic like a traffic cop when giving a tour) we came to the Széchenyi Chain Bridge. It is a suspension bridge that spans the Danube river between Buda and Pest. Opened in 1849, after the Hungarian Revolution of 1848, it was the first permanent bridge across the Danube in Hungary. At 202 meters, it was considered one of the world's largest, at the time. The chain-links are made of iron plates several meters in length connected by large rivets allowing for the chain to make small movements, like a real chain – hence the “Chain” in the name of the Bridge. Count István Széchenyi was a major advocate of the project after being stuck on the wrong side of the river when he he got news that his father had died. He founded a society to finance and build the bridge, which took 50 years.
The lions at each end appear to have no tongues and the sculptor vowed to jump off the bridge if it was proven that they didn't. They do, and he didn't. In World War II, the bridge was blown up by the retreating Germans with only the towers remaining. The cast iron structure was rebuilt and reopened in 1949. The current bridge is an exact copy of the original.
Crossing the bridge to the Buda side and Adam Clark Square, (he oversaw the work on the Bridge) we stopped for a bathroom break near Zero Kilometer Stone and the lower end of the Castle Hill Funicular.
Zero Kilometer Stone is a 3 m high limestone sculpture forming a zero sign, marking the point from which all road distances to Budapest are measured in the country. It was made by Miklos Borsos in 1975. Considering Hungarians are notorious for their outspoken rebellious ways, with a bit of imagination, one can see a different inference in the shape of the sculpture. There is another Zero Kilometer Stone higher up the hill. With a bit of imagination, it is the counter part to the first.
The Castle Hill Funicular is a 2 car railway that hugs the 51 meter high cliff like an elevator on a track and links the Adam Clark Square and the Chain bridge at river level to the Buda Castle above. It can hold 24 passengers per car and moves at the dizzying speed of nearly 5 feet per second. (average walking speed is 4.4) It takes approximately 90 seconds to ascend or descend the 32 degree incline. The line was opened in 1870, was destroyed in WWII and reopened in 1986. A feature of the line are the two pedestrian foot bridges which cross above it. Our group took a foot path beside the Funicular. I paid the high price to ride it down one evening, as it was getting dark and I didn't want to stumble on the footpath. I am glad I did, because it offered a really nice view of the Chain Bridge and Gresham Palace on the other side of the river.
On the outside of the Buda Castle stands a whimsical fountain statue of children grasping a huge fish. I could get no information on it as to its meaning. I found it very lovely, although nearly everyone passed by it with not so much as a second glance.
We passed through the huge gates, near the pedestal of the symbol of the Kingdom of Hungary, a huge bronze statue of the mythical Turul bird representing the god's power and will. The Turul was seen as the ancestor of Attila (traditionally considered the first king of Hungary), and it was also the symbol of the Huns. It is often seen carrying the flaming Sword of God. We all stopped for a fantastic selfie, with the Chain Bridge in the background.
We were just in time to see the ceremonial changing of the Guards in front of the Hungarian Presidential Palace. The palace is called Sandor Palota (Alexander Palace). The guards marched with perfectly timed robot-like movements, they had a small show of a rifle drill as they actually changed guards, then marched away all to the beat of a military drum. It wasn't along performance, but very well choreographed. I happened by the Presidential Palace later in the day, and the guards were not so much guarding the place as just hanging out.
The Buda Castle was originally built in 1243, but was destroyed and rebuilt so many times that it was only when it was being rebuilt in 1950, after the Red Army ruined it during the Second World War, that some of the 15th century palace was discovered. The ruins were integrated into the current complex. There are many statues scattered throughout the complex. I have no idea who they are dedicated to. I am sure there is an interesting story to go with every one of them.
We walked along a lovely street lined with gorgeous houses. Orshe said this the the most expensive real estate in Budapest. The inventor of the Rubik's Cube lived here. The area is so expensive that one has to buy the residence then pay a fee to continue to live there. She commented how the concept was ludicrous, only the very rich would be foolish enough to afford it. I couldn't help but see the similarity to our North American condominium concept – buy your apartment then pay rent to live in it.
Further along we came to the Trinity Square with the Trinity Columnat its heart. Built between 1710 and 1713, the column was built to celebrate the end of the plague. The top of the sculpture represents the Holy Trinity with little angels and saints below. The citizens hoped that it would protect them from another epidemic. King Charles IV took his coronation oath at Holy Trinity Column in 1916. It is also a good place to sit and enjoy the view of St. Matthias Cathedral.
Matthias Church was built in 1255 along Trinity Square, in the heart of the Castle District, and was Buda's first parish church. The church is named after King Matthias, who ruled from 1458-90, revered for reconstructing the Hungarian state after years upon years of feudal anarchy. In 1541, when the Turks captured Buda, The Church of Our Lady became a mosque. The treasures were carted off to Slovakia and the beautiful frescoes were whitewashed over and replaced with inscriptions from the Koran. During the liberation of Budapest from the Turks in 1686 a bomb went off that collapsed a wall inside the church revealing a sculpture of the Madonna. (The Loreto Chapel still houses this baroque Madonna.)
The Muslims took this as a sign from God and surrendered the next day. The Jesuits tried (and failed) to restore the building. In the 19th century it was restored to it near original 13th century splendor by the same architect who built the nearby Fisherman's Bastion. He is the man credited for adding the magnificent diamond patterned roof tiles and gargoyles. It was completed in 1896 and had to be restored again after WWII. Much of the church still has Turkish designs, making for an interesting contrast with the Christian décor.
The roof tiles must be mentioned separately. They are Zsolnay ceramic, which are noted for the use of a secret glazing process that makes the porcelain appear iridescent metallic, in different colors that change with angle of reflection. They are acid and frost resistant and also never fade.
Some of the other unique features of the church are that it houses the double sarcophagus of King Bela III and his wife Anne de Chatillon in the Trinity Chapel. The twelfth-century king was originally buried in Székesfehérvár; in 1848 archaeologists found his remains in the city's ruined cathedral and transported it to the Matthias Church in 1860.
There is a spiral oculus window over the baptismal font. There appears to be four waterfalls coming from the window, depicting the four major Hungarian rivers.
There is a beautiful bust of a young Empress Elisabeth, the Austrian wife of the Habsburg Emperor Franz Joseph. She was so affectionate about Hungary that she liked it far more than Austria. She learned the difficult Hungarian language and spoke it fluently. This, and her passion for all things Hungarian, won her into the hearts of the Hungarian people, who affectionately called her Sisi. The Elisabeth Bridge is named after her.
Upstairs is a small gallery containing a number of sacred relics and medieval stone carvings, along with replicas of the Hungarian Royal Crown and coronation jewels. The original jewels are in the Parliament Building. There is a shaky video of King Charles IV wearing the over-sized crown while taking his coronation oath in 1916. Succeeding to the after the death of Emperor Franz Joseph, he was the last King of Hungary.
The main alter has a statue of the Virgin Mary with a replica of the crown of Hungary over her head.
As is the case with all European Christian crowns, it symbolizes a halo and thus signifies that the wearer rules by Divine Right. According to popular tradition, St. Stephen held up the crown during his coronation in 1000 AD to offer it to the the Blessed Virgin Mary to seal a divine contract between her and the divine crown. After this, the Virgin Mary was depicted not only as a patron saint for the Kingdom of Hungary but also as Queen. This contract was supposed to empower the crown with divine force to help the future kings of Hungary and it did help reinforce the political system based on the so-called "Doctrine of the Holy Crown" At the core of this doctrine was the notion that the crown itself had person-hood and as a legal entity is identical to the state of Hungary. It is superior to the ruling monarch, who rules "in the name of the crown". That's big boots for Hungarian monarchs to fill – the Queen Virgin Mary and the person-hood of her crown.
The Holy Crown has a lively history, having been stolen (the Hungarians prefer the term kidnapped, due to its person-hood), hidden, lost, recovered, and taken abroad many times. Most recently, the crown jewels were discovered in Austria after WWII, where they were sent for safekeeping. The crown ended up in Fort Knox, USA where it was held to verify its authenticity. After extensive discussions, during the term of U.S. President Jimmy Carter in 1978, an agreement to return the jewels contained many conditions to ensure it was returned to people of Hungary, rather than its Communist government. There is a small crooked cross on the top of the crown. It was damaged in the 17th century while being hastily stuffed into a storage box. The cross has been left in this slanted position, and is now always depicted as such.
Outside, beside Matthias Cathedral and in front of the Fisherman's Bastion, is a large bronze statue of Saint Stephen on horseback.
Fisherman's Bastion is a viewing terrace, with many stairs and walking paths situated behind Matthias Cathedral on the Castle Hill. Although it takes its name from the guild of fishermen that was responsible for defending this stretch of the city walls in the Middle Ages, it is a relatively new structure. It was designed and built between 1895 and 1902, using the foundations of a neighboring church which had to be pulled down. Its seven towers (representing the seven Magyar tribes that originally settled the region) and terrace offer a spectacular panoramic view of Danube, Margaret Island, Pest, and Gellert Hill.
The entire structure has the ambiance of a truly medieval castle wall. There are statues of knights, dragons and gargoyles. There are wide terraces and staircases. There is even a dungeon. Well, not really.... But there is a narrow dark staircase that takes you into an underground cavern where you can watch a very interesting video on the history of Hungary and Budapest. There is also a bit of a display of ancient weapons and clothing.
I went back the next evening to a tower that had a small bar and patio with a grand view. I lingered over a drink while the sun set, casting a beautiful glow on the Parliament Building across the river. Slowly the lights of the Parliament and the bridges began to flicker on. It was surreal. Fisherman's Bastion is one of the most popular tourist areas in all of Budapest. Whether I saw it during the day or in the evening, walking through it or beside it, or seeing it from across the river, it was beautiful.
I had a bit of a problem with the SIM card I had bought for my mobile phone. I had bought a card with strictly data, mostly for the maps app, but it was not working. I went back to where I bought it and after several minutes of broken English and a lot of sign language I finally understood that I would have to go to a big mall and have someone at that location check into it. Sounds simple right? It turned into quite the adventure.
As it turned out, the Mammut Mall was two kilometers past Castle Hill. I had to walk through the last of the old buildings of Castle Hill. Places like Fisherman's Bastion and Matthias Cathedral get all the limelight, but that does not mean there is not some interesting stuff on the edges. There were old churches and beautiful statues to admire as I walked.
Then I had to go through a residential area until I came to the Mammut Mall with its trademark mammoth adorning the entrance. There was also a beautiful neuvo-art memorial to the 1956 uprising.
Side Note: The uprising lasted from 23 October until 10 November 1956. It started as a student demonstration but quickly spread into a nationwide revolt against the Soviet government after one student was killed. Things turned ugly throughout the countryside as impromptu militias sprang up executing State Security Police, Soviet troops and anyone pro-Soviet. The Soviets finally crushed the resistance. Over 2500 Hungarians and 700 Soviet troops were killed in the conflict. Many Hungarians fled the country. The revolutionary dissension simmered long enough to ultimately cause the withdrawal of Soviet troops from Hungary on 1 July 1990.
I went to the T-mobile store and was told that my SIM was not recognized. Not a problem, she went on line and connected it. I went 10 feet down the hall and tried my maps app. It didn't work. I went back to the store. The girl said I need to go to a different store in the mall and they could help me. I went to the other store and explained what was happening. He said I needed to call a certain number to verify the SIM. I asked him to please call because I knew it would be a recorded message of press 3, press 9, etc. He refused! He said he cannot do it because he was not authorized. I pleaded with him. He basically got up and left me standing there. I tried the number that he gave me. Of course it was all in Hungarian and I had no idea what they were saying. Pressing "0" did not put me through to an operator. At this point I had spent nearly two hours trying to sort this all out and I was so frustrated that I went to a Verizon store. Within 20 minutes I had a working phone. I gave the T-Mobile SIM to the fellow helping me and told him to give it to someone he felt could use a month's worth of free phone priviledges.
The maps app came in handy right away as I was trying to find the Invisible Exhibition, which I knew was nearby. The building housing the Invisible Exhibition is on the edge of the lovely Millenaris Park filled with water features and ponds at different levels. I had to come back the next day in order to get an English speaking guide.
The Exhibition is a unique sensory experience that brings you into the world of the blind. We were told to take off our watches and put them into a locker along with our mobile phones and anything else that may have even the dimmest of light. We went through one doorway and it was already very dark, then we passed through a second doorway which thrust us into the darkest of dark. Our guide was born blind and he said if we get lost or disoriented (no shit!!) just to call out to him and he would clap his hands so we could find him and he could help us. However, he always knew exactly where we were and he would simply tell us to just reach behind or beside and we would find a wall or counter or statue of one of the seven dwarfs??!!
We started the tour in a mock apartment. It had everything down to dishes in the cupboards, food in the fridge, stove, sitting room, bathroom, bedroom, and clothes in the closet. We also had a mock walk in the forest, a park (where the Snow White statues were) and a mock street. We had to cross a street with the sounds of traffic seemingly inches away from us. It was terrifying even though it was only a pretend street with sound effects instead of real cars. We ended our tour in a restaurant where our guide served us drinks. Some of us wanted carbonated soft drinks and others not. He showed us how to tell the difference. Carbonated bottles are harder than non carbonated. As for the difference between cola and sprite – where it is placed in the fridge. He could tell who ordered what by the sound of our voice and our perfume.
Then he gave us a brief lesson on Braille. The first ten letters are in the first position, the next ten letters have the same dots as the first ten letters but have an extra dot in the bottom left corner. The last six letters have the same dots as the first ten but with two dots on the very bottom, except W, which is the same as the J but instead of two dots on the bottom it has only one, not on the left as the T but on the bottom right. So they have to know the dots, count their position within the alphabet while putting it all together into words. I got a headache just listening to him. He laughed and said since he was born blind he has learned no other way of reading. He thought it would be confusing to remember weird shapes for letters. What a pain in the ass silent letters must be to them!
I noticed he did not have many facial lines that one normally sees on other faces. He had a few smile wrinkles around his eyes and mouth, but he had no frown lines or forehead lines. It made me wonder if our facial expressions are more learned and not natural. No one taught him to frown at unpleasant things or to raise his eyebrows in quizzical ridicule. But smiling is obviously a natural thing. Interesting point to ponder.
The next day I walked down toward the east bank of the Danube to see the Shoes on the Danube memorial. It is a memorial to honor the Jews who were killed by fascist Arrow Cross militiamen in Budapest during WWII. The Jews were ordered to take off their shoes, and were shot at the edge of the water so that their bodies fell into the river and were carried away. The sixty pairs of period-appropriate shoes out of iron are attached to the stone embankment and represent the shoes left behind on the bank. There are work boots, high heels and baby shoes. Nearly every shoe is filled with flowers or a small candle placed by family or other compassionate people. It is a moving and sombre memorial because it it feels like the people were just in those shoes moments ago. It was erected in April 2005.
Later that day I took a hop-on-hop-off bus tour around the city. These tours can be somewhat cheesy but they do give one the opportunity to scout out the highlights quickly. Some of the places pointed out are sufficiently seen from the top of an open air bus. For the places that are worth checking out in more detail, at least one now has a general idea of its location. A lot of interesting old buildings were pointed out, such as the Budapest-Keleti Railway Terminal, the New York Cafe, Bálna (a glass domed futuristic commercial, cultural, entertaining and service center), the Gellert memorial, the Jewish Synagogue, Hero's Square, and the Liberty Monument. Side Note: The architecture in Budapest is amazing – if you are into that sort of thing. There is still a lot of mortar damage visible on many buildings.
I got off at the Liberty Monument because it was a hell of a long way to walk up a steep hill to see otherwise. It was first erected in 1947 in remembrance of what was then referred to as the Soviet “liberation” of Hungary during WWII, which ended the occupation by Nazi Germany. Its location upon Gellért Hill and size (14 meter bronze statue atop a 26 meter pedestal) makes it a prominent feature of Budapest's cityscape. It is also a great vantage place to get a picture of Budapest from above.
The original inscription upon the memorial (both in Hungarian and Russian) can be translated to read, "To the memory of the liberating Soviet heroes [erected by] the grateful Hungarian people [in] 1945". Over the following years, public sentiment toward the Soviets decreased to the point of revolution in 1956 with subsequent damages to the monument. With the 1989 transition from communist rule to democracy, the inscription was modified to read (translated from Hungarian only) "To the memory of those all who sacrificed their lives for the independence, freedom, and prosperity of Hungary". The original Soviet statue was covered in a huge white veil. When the veil was pulled back it was to signify a new life for Hungarians, even though it was the same statue. The local people said it looked like a huge condom on the hill. And when the veil was pulled off, well,,,, go back to the theory on how the Zero Kilometer Stone is depicted.
I did not go to the Gellert Hill Memorial, but feel I need to mention it anyway. On a 235 m (771 ft) high hill overlooking the Danube is Gellért Hill, named after a saintly bishop (Szent Gellért) who, during the great pagan rebellion in 1046, was thrown to death by being put into a barrel lined with spikes and rolled down into the deep from the top of the hill. Apparently he antagonized the pagans by continuing to make the sign of the cross even as they were trying to stone him. There are a lot of caves here as well. There is even a chapel built into one of them.
We stopped briefly at the Zwack Museum. I had not yet tasted the 80 proof (40% alcohol) herbal liqueur known as Unicum, for that evening when I had a shot, I wish I had hopped off the bus. It is the national drink of Hungary and reminds me a bit of Jägermeister, with its slightly bitter taste. According to legend, Unicum was created by the royal physician Doctor Zwack for Emperor Joseph II in 1790. The Emperor was suffering from some sort of digestive ailment and after he had a stiff shot of Unicum he felt much better. It became the drink of choice for the royalty and decreed the national drink. It consists of 40 different herbs and spices and is aged in oak casks for 6 months. It is classified as medicinal to this day. The recipe still rests with the Zwack family, 6 generations later. And Colonel Sanders thinks his chicken is special!
I was staying just off Andrassy Avenue near the shopping, restaurants and theatres. I walked along the avenue, in the opposite direction, toward Hero's Square. The Avenue was recognized as a World Heritage Site in 2002, making the walk itself incredible being lined with statues and spectacular Neo-renaissance mansions and townhouses featuring fine facades.
The avenue comes to a climactic end at the entrance to the City Park, with Hero's Square the Millennium Monument, which is flanked by the Museum of Fine Arts and the Palace of Art. Hero's Square hosts many events, political and cultural, and the free concert I passed up in order to go to St. Stephen's for a bad organ concert. Side Note: Volkswagen was handing out cardboard seats to concert attendees.
The Millennium Memorial construction began in 1896 to commemorate the 1000th anniversary of the Hungarian conquest of the Carpathian Basin and the foundation of the Hungarian state. It was built in conjunction with refurbishing Andrassy Avenue and also the construction of the first metro line in Budapest. It was completed in 1900. It is one of the major squares in Budapest and is also a famous landmark.
The front of the monument is a large stone cenotaph dedicated "To the memory of the heroes who gave their lives for the freedom of our people and our national independence." It is not an actual burial place. Directly behind the cenotaph is a column topped by a statue of the archangel Gabriel. In his right hand the angel holds the Holy Crown of St. Stephen. In his left hand the angel holds an apostolic double cross, a symbol awarded to St. Stephen by the Pope in recognition of his efforts to convert Hungary to Christianity.
At the base of the column is a group of seven mounted figures representing the Magyar chieftains who led the Hungarian people into the Carpathian Basin. In the front is Árpád, considered the founder of the Hungarian nation. Behind him are the chieftains Előd , Ond, Kond, Tas, Huba, and Töhötöm (Tétény). Little survives in the historical record about these individuals and both their costumes and their horses are considered to be more fanciful than historically accurate.
The back of the monument consists of two matched colonnades, each with seven statues representing great figures of Hungarian history.
Just past the monument, by the boating lake / skating rink, is Vajdahunyad Castle. It was built in 1896, and is the home of several festivals, concerts and the exhibitions of the Hungarian Agricultural Museum.
Further along is the Széchenyi Thermal Bath. Opening in 1881, it is the largest medicinal bath in Europe. Budapest isn't called the 'City of Baths' for nothing. Thanks to a unique geological feature, Budapest sits on over 100 thermal springs that feed the city's famous bathhouses rich with healing qualities. The hot springs feeding the thermal pools is rich in calcium, magnesium, hydro-carbonate, sodium and sulfate, with significant content in fluoride and metabolic acid. The waters are recommended to help cure degenerative illnesses of joints, chronic and semi-acute arthritis, and orthopedic and post-injury treatments.
Upon paying admission I was given a plastic wristband that opened and closed my private changing cabin by simply touching the lock with the band. Outside, there is a large, rectangular pool with a water temperature ranging from 27-38°C, depending which end of the pool you are in. There are always men playing chess in the steaming water.
Inside, there are 15 pools ranging in temperatures from 20-40 degrees. There are numerous steam baths and saunas located next to the pools, some with temperatures of 70 degrees! There are showers everywhere to cool down. The interior has the ambiance of a cathedral with its high vaulted ceilings and domed windows. I had paid for the spa treatment which included a 60 minute massage. I felt like rubber when I left a few hours later.
I walked down to the Parliament early one morning to buy a ticket for a tour. It is recommended that you buy your ticket on line because there is a limited number sold, but I was having difficulty with the website so went in person. Luckily, I had only a couple of hours to kill before my time slot. So I decided to walk around the Parliament grounds and across the Margaret Bridge to fill the time.
Margaret Bridge is the second oldest public bridge in Budapest. There are beautiful statues embedded in the bulwarks with a Hungarian crown on top. The lamps are held in a dragon's mouth. This bridge leads across to Margaret Island, its two parts enclosing 150 degrees with each other at the embranchment towards the island. Formerly called the Island of the Rabbits, simply because there were many rabbits there, the island received its current name after Saint Margaret (1242–1270), the daughter of King Béla IV, who lived in the Dominican convent on the island. King Béla IV vowed to raise his daughter as a nun if Hungary survived the Mongol invasion. There was no bridge back then and I doubt she had a say in the matter. Today it is a recreation area with thermal pools, hiking, and open air concerts. No vehicles allowed
The grounds around the parliament host a number of statues and monuments. It was a nice day and a perfect opportunity to wander. It gives one time to spot whimsical things....
The Parliament building, a magnificent example of Neo-Gothic architecture and is just over 100 years old. It is the third largest Parliament building in the world. It is 268 m (879 ft) long , 123 m (404 ft) wide, and at 96 meters (315 feet) is equal height to St. Stephen's Basilica. About 1,000 people were involved in construction, during which 40 million bricks, half a million precious stones and 40 kilograms (88 lb) of gold were used. Since WWII the legislature became unicameral (having one legislative or parliamentary chamber) and today the government uses only half of the building. The other, identical half, is used for tours. It is a beautiful building to observe whether up close, from across the river, from on the river, by day, or by night. The evening lights give it a magical appearance.
My 45 minute tour was about to begin. It is no small thing when you are about to enter a building full of politicians and the Crown Jewels. Everyone had to go through a scanner and all packs were x rayed. The building has 691 rooms (including more than 200 offices), 20 kilometers (12,5 miles) of stairs over 29 staircases, 27 gates, 13 passenger and freight elevators, and 10 courtyards. The overall impression is opulence! There are long, high vaulted ceiling corridors with red carpets and high stained glass windows. Throughout the building seats have silver brocade and even the smallest windows have delicate stained and painted glass.
The main hall is a sight to behold! There are two red carpeted staircases going up and one going down, between them. The entire hall is adorned with statues along the walls, seemingly guarding the hall. There are massive stained glass windows between every statue. There is gold gilt on the ceiling, railings, and walls.
The main hall leads directly to the huge 16 sided central hall. This is where the original Holy Crown and scepter are kept, under glass, behind a rope and guarded by two armed guards. (No pictures allowed, but Google photos are awesome!) We were treated to a changing of the guard. We were told to stand way back as their performance requires them to swing their swords quite elaborately. They change guards quite regularly, as they are required to stand very still while on guard. The 16 sides of the hall gather into a star like ceiling with 16 large windows.
Further on we entered a sitting room. I could not hear our guide very well, but what I did gather was this room was filled with antiquities – right from the elaborate carpet to the Ming-like vase to the intricate wall ornaments.
One of the more interesting trivia was regarding the corridor outside the Assembly hall of the House of Representatives. Along with window sills and other nooks nearby were wavy ribbons of bronze with a number on them. Back in former times when smoking was allowed in public buildings, the politicians would go out into the corridor to puff on a cigar. These were cigar holders, and the number was so they knew which was their cigar. Apparently, they left the cigar smoldering while they popped in and out of session. It is rumored that there is evidence of cigarette ash today.
The Hospital in the Rock is the name given to a hospital created in the caverns under Buda Castle in the 1930s, in preparation for WWII. Since Budapest is scattered with caves and tunnels many of them were connected and fortified and used as an air raid shelter. On the orders of the Mayor of Budapest an emergency surgical hospital was also built within the caves. The hospital was actively used during WW II until July 1945. The facility was designed to treat 60–70 patients, but at one point it was being used to treat 600 wounded soldiers. Every available space was used. Men crowded 3 per bed, on the floors between the bunks, in the corridors, and even under rock outcrops.
It was also used during the 1956 Revolution to treat wounded civilians and soldiers. Between 1958 and 1962 it was expanded to withstand potential chemical and nuclear attacks during the Cold War. The hospital has been made into a museum in 2008, complete with 200 waxwork recreations of hospital treatments and day-to-day scenarios during the siege. There are gory scenes of wounded men in various forms of discomfort with medical staff tending to them.
The hospital was also used by the Soviets as office space. There is spy apparatus still set up. There is one recreation of a fellow reeling from a punch in the face with it rather distorted from the impact of his interrogator's fist.
This museum is dedicated to its days as a former secret emergency hospital and nuclear bunker. Old equipment that was left over from its operational days include a 1930s X-ray, anesthetic machines, and gas masks. The control room and associated machinery are still in operating conditions. Air needs to be pumped in and the original equipment is still used. There are approximately 10 km of tunnels under Buda Castle, but the tour only allows for about 2 km. It is cold in the tunnels and we were given original nurses capes or army uniform overcoats to keep warm.
I had to walk past the State Opera House many times. In front of the building are statues of Franz Liszt and Ference Erkel. Erkel composed the Hungarian National Anthem and was the first music director of the Opera House.
Construction began in 1875, funded by the city of Budapest and by Emperor Franz Joseph I of Austria-Hungary. It opened to the public on the 27 September 1884. It is the second largest opera house in Budapest and in Hungary. The Emperor had the most spectacular third balcony center box seats, but when he died his wife, who was not such a fan of being on display at the opera, opted for plain box seats closer to the stage.
Upon entering the first thing you see is a magnificent marble staircase with red carpets.
We went into the auditorium which seats 1261 people. According to experts who can measure these things, the Budapest Opera House has the third best acoustics in Europe. The seats may be rather plain, but the gold trim is real. They have to recover the gilt every now and then due to people rubbing it off.
There are air vents under the seats (original to the building) to keep you cool during the performance.
There is a bronze chandelier that weighs 3050 kg hanging from the domed ceiling with a scene depicting Greek gods on Olympus.
The central stage features a revolving stage and metal hydraulic machinery – truly modern technology of its time.
We went up the marble staircase to a reception area designed for royalty. There was a separate grand staircase flanked with railings and columns made from three different types of marble; red, black and white. The staircase came up the center length of the hall and emptied onto one end. Everyone could watch them coming up the stairs from the railing above. There were massive mirrors placed at the top of the stairs so that when the royal ascended they did not have to turn their head this way or that to have a view of the room and its occupants. Royals do NOT turn their heads.
Every piece of wood was intricately carved with flowers, birds, cherubs, wizard faces, and geometric designs – whether it was a door frame or column. There was a fireplace that is presumed to be built by a prince. In former times even royalty had to have a profession. The inscription on this fireplace hints of a royal apprentice.
The wallpaper had gold and silver gilt. The hardwood floors had intricate patterns in them.
On a lower level, between the reception area and the outside balcony is a narrow corridor where patrons used to go for a smoke. I'm not sure why they would not just smoke in the reception area, since there was no doors to prevent the smoke from drifting or why they did not go onto the balcony.
I had time to spare after the Opera House tour and I had to walk past the House of Terror to get back to my guest house. I had walked past itnearly every day. Initially, it did not interest me, but seeing the pictures of victims framed along its outside walls everyday and finally stopping to read the displays on the street, it piqued my curiosity enough to go in. No photos allowed.
The House of Terror Museum commemorates the victims of both the Communist and the Nazi regimes in Hungary. The building served as the former headquarter of the Nazi party in 1940, and its basement was used as a prison. During Communism, the building was taken over by the State Security (Hungarian version of the KGB). Hundreds, or perhaps even thousands of Hungarians suspected of being an enemy of the state were given sham trials, tortured, and routinely executed.
As you enter you see a Soviet tank and a vast wall covered with portraits of victims of this building. The exhibits covers many things that are not clear for visitors, as they have more of a symbolic meaning for Hungarians, such as a labyrinth built of pork-fat bricks reminds old-timers of the harsh conditions in the 1950s when lard on bread was the standard dinner. One clever display had children's school desks wallpapered in propaganda. Not an actual occurrence, but clever artistic license. The things that are crystal clear is the propaganda from the time and videos of stories from survivors.
As the slow elevator descends, a guard on video explains the execution process. When the door opens, you step into the basement chambers of torture and death. In 1956 the blood was hosed away and the cellar was made a clubhouse for the local communist youth club. You see it today as it was circa 1955, with chilling prison cells instead of kids’ activity rooms. It's difficult to even imagine what it must have been like, but try sitting for a moment in one of the cells with the door closed... CREEEEEPY!!!
My time in Budapest had come to a close. I took the metro to the airport where I flew to Essen, Germany to see my friend Vivianne, who I had met and walked with on the Caminio.
Other interesting things in Budapest:
The rubbish bins on the street also have an ashtray attached on the side of it.
There are Bicycles to Go. They affix to a metal pillar by a very strong magnet. I am not sure how you un-affix them to use.
There are cute signs painted on the sidewalks to show which side of the walk you should be on.
The parking permit dispensers are solar powered.
There are numerous bridges in Budapest. They all light up beautifully at night.
There are statues, memorials, and wall murals everywhere you turn. All of them beautiful.
Soproni is a really good Hungarian Beer
NEXT TIME IN BUDAPEST
Rudas Bath. Built in the 16th century, it remains one of the oldest thermal baths in Budapest. The building has a Turkish dome and octagonal pool and has the unique characteristics of a Turkish bath.
Margaret Island – hiking, live theatre, music fountain, water tower
Geller's Monument & Cave Church
Statue of the Anonymous Author
State Opera House performance
Ruin Bar - When many houses in certain districts of Budapest were abandoned 10-15 years ago, people would rent an abandoned building, and without repairing it, hang a sign with the name and serve drinks. Furniture consists of anything from discarded chairs to tree stumps. Feel free to graffiti the walls!
