From Fez we went to Meknes, to see the the UNESCO World Heritage Site of Volubilis. The Romans built upon the existing Berber community in the first century. It sits atop a hill overlooking a beautiful fertile plateau, once overflowing with olive groves and wheat fields. It was occupied for nearly 1000 years, but only about 200 years of that time were Roman occupation. Other cultures took over but ended up abandoning it for Fez or nearby Moulay Idriss. Much of Volubilis was looted and scavenged for building materials to be used at the newer locations. An 18th century earthquake further devastated the site. In the late 19th century the site was identified as that of the ancient city of Voubilis.
Volubilis’ ruins are argued to be the some of the best preserved in north Africa. With some imagination, one can visualize what a traditional Roman city once looked like, with its remarkable urban conception of the hypodamian plan (grid pattern streets) and terraced plan. Several fragments of walls still remain, along with parts of massive columns and arches. Some of the more prominent public buildings and high status houses have been restored or reconstructed. Excavation revealed many fine mosaics. The Fertessa River, running on one side of Volubilis, adds a sense of tranquility and charm to the Roman ruins.
Driving up we could see the ancient pillars of the Capitoline Temple gleaming in the sunlight. We paid our entrance fee and entered the site, following a line of cypress trees and oleander, with our guide. I mention the oleander because back in Roman times they used a branch from the oleander to make a kebab that was served to an enemy. The oleander is poisonous and as the kebab cooked the poison from the branch would seep into the meat, thus killing the unsuspecting diner. And who would know one kebab stick from another, except the cook. Devious but clever.
One of the first things the guide showed us was the famous mosaics. Even at 1000 years old, they were incredibly well preserved with their colors still very vivid. There were intricate geometric designs as well as images of sea creatures around the baths.
The more detailed images showed an athlete riding a donkey while holding a cup in his hand,
another mosaic showed a dolphin,
and yet another showed a man encountering another fellow who is sleeping.
Amazingly, these elaborate mosaics acted as the flooring in the more luxurious homes. And we think our hardwood floors are nice! They certainly couldn't withstand the punishment these mosaics have gone through.
There was evidence of aqueducts and a plumbing system feeding water to the baths. Like most Roman cities, Volubilis had a complex water system that flowed below the Decumanus Secundus, (a street that ran parallel to the main thoroughfare) from a spring in the hills behind the city and supplied baths and houses, while a series of drains flushed waste water and sewage into the nearby river. The same tranquil, charming river mentioned earlier.
One of the more luxurious homes had a huge cistern. It would have been too shallow to bath in, so possibly a wading pool or simply a means to cool the building.
This same building had pillars with lead fillers to cushion it in case of an earthquake.
There was also evidence of a track for a sliding door in the stone flooring. Incredible technology for its time!
Each building showed evidence of one or more olive presses - a total of 58 presses were found. There were reconstructions of small olive presses, used by homeowners, as well as a huge press that was used for marketing the oil. A testimony to the importance of olives in the region over the past 2 centuries.
At the northern entrance to Volubilis stands the triple-arched Tingis gate which looks down the wide sweep of the Decumanus Maximus, the main thoroughfare and the commercial heart of Volubilis. A grand paved avenue, it had arcaded porticoes shading its sidewalks on either side. The remains of pillars and square stone blocks that once marked the entrance to the shops now look like old tombstones, blackened with age. Here and there lie small stone blocks with images carved on them to indicate a shop's wares.
On the far end of the Decumanus Maximus (opposite from the Tingis Gate) sits the triumphal arch of Emperor Caracalla. It was built in 217 by the city's governor to honour the emperor Caracalla and his mother Julia Domna, whose busts have been defaced. The inscription on the top of the arch was reconstructed from the fragments which had been scattered on the ground in front of the arch, which states that it was originally topped by a bronze chariot pulled by six horses. Evidence also shows that statues of nymphs poured water into carved marble basins at the foot of the arch. The thing that impressed me the most was seeing the expanse of lush countryside through the ancient arch. It gave the arch a sense of authenticity.
To the left of the arch is the beautifully arched Basilica. It is 42 meters long by 22 meters wide and originally had two floors. The formidable structure hints at its magisterial past as courthouse and government administration building. The outer wall of the Basilica overlooks the forum where markets were held. Small temples and public offices would have lined the 1,300 m2 forum, which would have been full of statues of emperors and local dignitaries, of which only the pedestals now remain.
Behind the Basilica stands the Capitoline Temple. An altar stands in front of 13 steps leading up to the gleaming Corinthian columns. The Temple was dedicated to the Roman state’s three chief divinities; Jupiter, King of the Gods and god of sky and thunder; the warlike Juno, protector and special advisor to the state; and Minerva, goddess of wisdom and sponsor of arts, trade, and defense. Assemblies would be held before the temple to call on the gods for aid, to make a declaration of war, to thank them for the successful completion of important civic undertakings (such as the fighting of wars), and by returning to this location with the booty of the resultant war. Stork now nest on top of the Corinthian columns. It is considered good luck if you see the storks in their nest.
We left Volubilis and continued on to Chefchaouen.
