When we reached Fez we parted ways with the young couple. Our taxi dropped us at the medieval Bab Guissa gate where someone met us to take us to Dar Rabab – our guest house. It is an ancient building with a tremendous amount of charm. The doorway was even smaller than the one in Marrakech. The center area had a huge dining table with a kitchen and sitting area off from it. Overhead was a gallery running the entire way around the center court and housing the guest rooms. There were decorative tiled murals all over the walls. The staircase up to our room was very narrow. To make it even narrower, a part of the neighbor's wall was jutting into the stairwell.
These houses were built so long ago that it was common for the neighbor's room to be resting on your wall. Apparently it added strength, which is quite possible considering the age of the buildings still standing and in use! I believe our riad was built in the 1100's.
We were tired and hungry after our long journey. The host arranged for someone to escort us to a nearby restaurant. Although it wasn't far, we were hopelessly lost. The fellow said he would return in an hour to collect us and take us back to the riad. The next day we learned to navigate back to our riad from the Bab Guissa gate, turn left at the public fountain. - which was still in use, then down the hill, and turn into the blind alley before the next sharp right. Simple.....
The dinner was amazing! Unfortunately, we did not get the name of the restaurant. First of all, we were given 9 small bowls of various vegetables and a plate of pita for an appetizer. This included cucumbers, carrot, shredded beet root, rice, lentils, potato, cabbage, a relish mixture, and the ever present olives. Dinner was tajine, of course.
The host also arranged for us to have a guide to take us around the Fez medina the next day. Amina is one of the very few female guides in Fez. She said had to take the two year guiding course, like everyone else, but when she started guiding she was not allowed to advertise herself and was only allowed to promote herself in one particular area – which happened to be the red light district. But she persevered and has since built a clientèle based on her excellent guiding skills. She spoke excellent English.
The reason we requested a guide was two fold: first, we spent too much time in Marrakech and now were running out of time. Second, and most importantly, The medina of Fès is the largest living medieval city in the world. Its incredible maze of 9400 twisting alleys (99% are not navigable by car), blind turns and souqs are crammed with shops, restaurants, workshops, mosques, medersas (theological colleges), dye pits and tanneries. A riot of sights, sounds and smells, 21st-century Fès is groaning at its 9th-century seams. The entire medina was designated a UNESCO World Heritage Site in 1981, with 13,380 historic buildings, 10,539 retail businesses and a population about 156,000. It covers an area of 300 hectares (or 1.16 square miles)
The first place she took us was actually out of the medina, to Art Naji, a ceramic tile and pottery factory. They made everything from roofing tiles to dishes. Every piece of pottery was spun on the wheel by hand, baked in kilns, then hand painted.
Some fancier pieces had silver wire or flattened silver incorporated into the decorations.
When we were there they were working of a set of tableware for a hotel that required an exact pattern to be painted on all the dishes, bowls, cups, and glasses.
If that was not impressive enough, we then saw how they made fountains. The clay is baked into flat sheets, with various colors of glaze. For some pieces, a stencil is placed on the fired tile and the glaze is hand chipped away to create the pattern.
For smaller pieces, the stencil is used to create the outline of the shape they desire. Then they chip out each individual piece and smooth the edges by using tiny chisels (no electric grinders used).
The pieces are then placed face down to create the design being worked on. Then the tiles are cemented together. When it is flipped over, the pattern is visible and fixed into place. It is like working on a jigsaw puzzle with all the pieces flipped upside down. If that is not hard enough, they also create the curve of the fountain bowl in the same way. We had admired the fountains before, but now had a true appreciation for the workmanship that goes into making them. The prices were not entirely ridiculous either, considering the workmanship. And they shipped around the world.
We then went back to the medina. We started at the Blue Gate (Bab Doujloud), which is considered one of the main entrances to the Old Medina. The entire city is still surrounded by high walls penetrated in a relatively few (12?) locations by historic city gates. This gate was actually built in 1913 with a touch of originality. It has the central arch and two smaller arches on each side. It it totally decorated with the typical ceramics as we had just seen at the factory. The exterior is blue (the color of Fez) but the interior of the wall is green (the color of Islam). When one stands outside of the gate, one can see two mosque towers through the arch.
Next to the gate is and ancient water distributor. It is the cornerstone of the Medina's water supply since the 11th century. It is composed of several underground entrances which are made of ceramic cylinders inserted into one another and forming a complex underground network. Since the 11th century, mosques, inns, hammams, fountains and most of the wealthy homes in Fez had access to running water.
Once inside the medina it was easy to see the differences between Fez and Marrakech. The walls of Fez are yellow instead of pinkish, the streets are even narrower in Fez and there are less tourists. The souks are even more crammed together and seem to sell more local items than tourist trinkets.
The streets are narrower than Marrakech. In some places the lanes to the houses are as narrow as 60 centimeters. Our guide had to point them out to us, but then we noticed there are house numbers at the start of the lane. Only a few streets are as wide as five meters (about 16 feet), and then only for a short distance. The streets are generally too narrow to even use bicycles, although there are a few areas in which they and motor scooters are found, mostly near one of the gates. In these areas, a few small trucks sometimes operate, primarily to remove waste. The remainder of the medina is entirely car free.
Many lanes had rooms/houses built over the lane, almost like an arch. Some buildings even adjoined over the lane. The doorways were oddly placed to access the abode. They certainly know how to capitalize on every available space.
We went to a very nice restaurant for lunch. I am so sorry I didn't get the name of it. It was very old, and very beautiful. The architecture and decor were breathtaking. The walls were covered with ceramic tiles. Above the tiles was delicately carved woodwork that extended to all the arched doorways. There were large vases, urns and lace-like lanterns in alcoves. The windows were stained glass.
We sat shamelessly gawking at the beauty. The family sitting at the next table were obviously not so enamored. The six of them were all busy with either a cell phone or tablet.
The center courtyard had a gallery encircling it. It was on the second floor that the guides ate. They could peek down and see when their clients were finished eating then they quickly come down while the client paid, cleverly appearing just as the client was ready to depart.
After lunch we went to Nejjarine Museum of Wood Arts and Crafts. This 18th century fondouk / caravanserai was a place for traveling merchants to store and sell their goods below and take lodging on the floors above. Camels were also housed there. Restored and reopened in 1998, the rooms that once lodged the merchants now house artifacts such as craftsmen’s tools, prayer beads, ancient chests, and musical instruments. No photos were allowed of the artifacts. Photos were allowed of the intricate carvings, beautifully carved wooden arches and inner courtyard.
There were no displays in the inner courtyard, as they were redoing the tile work floor.
There was a rooftop cafe that allowed fantastic views over the cramped medina. Outside, in the el-Nejjarine (Carpenters' Square) was the Nejjarine Fountain. This ceramic-tile, cedar-ceiling public fountain is one of the more beautiful and historic of its kind, with its geometrically decorated tiles and intricately carved cedar eaves overhead. It is the best known of the medina's mosaic fountains.
The alleys that lead off the square is the Nejjarine Souk, where carpenters still chisel and carve cedar wood.
The crafsmanship in the Nejjarine Souk ranged from the intricate, lace-like carvings, seen throughout Morocco, to gaudy-glitzy wedding furniture. What a contrast!
We then made our way to Kairaouine Mosque and University. Established in 857, the University is known for being one of the oldest Universities in the world and is one of Moroccos's biggest. The Kairaouine Mosque is one of the oldest in the western Muslim world. Non-Muslims are not permitted to enter the mosque, which can hold up to 20,000 people at prayer. Have a look on Google Maps earth view to get an idea of how huge it is. It’s so large that it can be difficult to actually see. Over the centuries the streets and houses of the Kairaouine quarter have encroached on the building so much they disguise its true shape.
The outside walls and doorways of the University were incredibly decorated with ceramic tiles, delicate woodwork, and elaborate archways. It was so ornately decorated it was hard to believe this was the outside of the building. There were some very interesting and ancient doors leading into the facility.
We had a peek inside when the massive doors were open by some departing students. It was pristine! It was gleaming with a tiled courtyard, center fountain, sculpted woodwork, arches, and green tile roof.
The walls surrounding the Mosque and University are wooden, so the blind can always follow the wall to find the gate out of the medina.
We then went to a smaller Koranic School, the Al Attarine Madrasa. Built in the 1th century, it takes its name from the Souk al-Attarine, the nearby spice and perfume market. It was very small, but very beautiful. Upon entering, the wonderfully decorated wooden ceiling gave a hint of the beauty inside.
In the courtyard the setting sun cast a surreal glow on the cedar while the white stucco accentuated it more.
It was an explosion of delicate craftsmanship. Even the pillars were ornate.
Everywhere we looked there was intricate carvings in wood, expertly carved stuccoes, an array of mosaic tile (zellij), and the beautiful calligraphy ever present in Islamic buildings singing the praises of Allah.
One cannot go to Fez without going to the tanneries. The leather from the Fez tanneries is considered the highest quality in the world, and is most often the choice for leather bond books. We were told we would smell it before we saw it. Maybe the wind was in the right direction, but we couldn't smell anything out of the ordinary - mule carts already sharing the lanes with us. When we entered the tannery we were given a sprig of mint to sniff should the smell become too overwhelming. We weren't bothered by the smell. I think it comes from being raised on a farm. It takes a lot to make us gag at smells (or the sight of goat heads in the souks). However, I would hate to be here when the temperature is 40 degrees.
We visited the large Chaouwara Tannery, but we could see much smaller tanneries nearby. The tanneries were built near a river, which still supplies their needs to this day. In former times, the river also was their waste removal system - thankfully, that has changed .
But before getting to the actual tannery part, we were greeted by a tannery guide who asked us, Where are you from? Canada. What part? Western side, east of the Rockies. Alberta? Yes! (Surprised that he knew Alberta.) Where in Alberta? North of Calgary. (The only familiar Canadian cities are Toronto, Vancouver, or Calgary.) No, specifically where? Bonnyville. Really! I spent a couple of years in Cold Lake. Unbelievable! We travel to Morocco to meet someone from Cold Lake! He was beside himself to introduce us to his work colleagues, almost as if to prove to them that there really was a place called Cold Lake, Alberta, Canada.
Back to the tannery tour. He took us up to the rooftop terrace so we could fully appreciate the tanning operation going on below. There were honeycombs of huge stone vats with hides soaking in them.
The hides are first soaked in diluted acidic pigeon excrement, a solution that loosens the hair and softens the hide.
A man was standing between these vats scraping any remaining hair and fat off with a big knife.
Other vats were filled with vegetable dyes such as henna, saffron and mint. Men were in some of these vats, needing every inch of the hip waders they were wearing, flipping the hides so that they dyed evenly.
There were heaps and heaps of hides stacked, looking like dirty rags. The hides are hung on the walls or on the roofs to dry.
These are the oldest tanneries in the world, dating back to the 11th century, and are the trademark of the Fez medina. Henry Ford was not the first to develop a production line. This production line style of manufacturing of leather is a relic of times gone by. It is a flexible production line because large or small batches can be manufactured and also the product (both size, shape and color) can be changed quickly. It s a vivid example of all the crafts that once were common here.
There have been plans discussed to move the tannery out of the medina altogether and redevelop the site as a green area. However, considering the economic and cultural impact such plans would have on the medina, it’s unsure whether these ideas will ever leave the drawing board.
We were then lead through the gift shop to see the wide assortment of leather handbags, coats, furniture, and even jewelry. There was one cardigan-looking item that was so heavenly soft it felt more like silk than leather. We each bought a leather coat and some slippers.
Walking along from the tannery we came across a baker tucked into his cave-like bakery. We saw several of these throughout Morocco. How they can stand the heat is beyond comprehension. They have barely enough room to move in front of their ancient clay stove. One can liken it to a ritzy pizza oven. My grandmother and, for a short time, my mother used to bake bread in one of these ovens on the farm that I grew up on. Knowing from experience the difference in taste from items baked in a modern oven to a clay oven, we had Amina purchase a small loaf for us. The baker pulled the bread out with a long handled peel (a shovel-like tool) that was so long it protruded into the street. OMG! There is no way to describe the taste. Warm, soft, and a delicious taste that can only come from the wood heat.
We then went to a textiles market. It was a typical tourist shop with tourist prices, exploding with scarves, tassels, and clothing purported to be local attire but which we did not see one local wearing. Ed tried on a few gelabahs for fun but we didn't buy anything.
We stopped in at a shop that specialized in embroidery. Being an embroiderer, Irene took special interest in the craftsmanship. There were lots of table runners, napkins, and table cloths. Some pieces were so elaborate it was difficult to accept that it was done by hand. But flipping it over affirmed that it definitely was hand stitched. Apparently, the women doing the stitching don't even use a pattern. That was even more difficult to accept, until we saw a work in progress – no stencil marks to be seen. Amazing!
We were going to be heading to Chefchaouen the next day. Again, because we were running out of time, we opted for a taxi. Amina recommended Mohammed to us. He spoke excellent English and turned out to be an excellent guide as well. Even though we were pretty much sick and tired of tajine, we like to take advantage of local cooking classes. We asked Mohammed if he could recommend one.
He had a friend who accepted people into her home and taught a bit of cooking. Melika was a lovely lady who was a working woman with a foreign degree until she got married and had children. Culture dictated that she be a stay at home mom. Personally, it seemed as if she enjoyed the company, got to practice her English and made a bit of spending money while she cooked the family dinner. The student got to shell peas and prepare artichoke while paying her for the privilege. All in all, we had a lovely time. Her young daughter got to practice her English, as well.
The best part of the cooking adventure was to experience a typical Moroccan home. They are quite different than North American homes. All the homes and apartments had decorative bars on all the windows. We were told it was to prevent small children from falling out and hurting themselves. That story may make sense for upper levels, but even single story homes had them. Inside, there was a huge foyer. The kitchen and bedrooms were toward the back of the suite. The kitchen was fairly modern with a small balcony off of it.
The most interesting area was the sitting / dining area. It was one massive room filled with couches, arm chairs and ottomans. There was even a plushly covered bench-like affair running along two walls. There were a few smaller tables covered with fancy table cloths. The reason for this is for entertaining. It is not uncommon to have the entire family over for dinner – aunts, uncles, cousins, in-laws, etc. They take turns hosting each other and can be as many as 20-30 people. Mohammed joined us for the meal and he further explained, by demonstration, the use of the couches. He lounged right back like a Roman emperor while he nibbled at the food. It was also noted that there were no pictures on the walls. We failed to quiz them on this.
There are some strange rules regarding taxis and booking taxis. We were to meet Mohammed early the next morning, outside the medina walls. We were told to tell anyone who asked that we had arranged for him to take us to the train only. We weren't entirely certain if all this secrecy was really the case in helping us or protecting them. Either way, we already established that we liked Mohammed, that he spoke good English, and he promised to be our unofficial guide.
Unfortunately Medersa Bouanania was closed for some reason so we were not able to see inside. It is the only Medersa that has a minaret. We found out later that we were also not shown the washing house opposite, for washing limbs and face before prayers. Nor were we shown the Dar al-Magana, a wall with a hydraulic clock that was built in conjunction to the madrasa. Oh well, next time.....
In conclusion: Fez lacks the single great monuments that Marrakech has, but overall is a lot more interesting.
