I arrived in London on Christmas day to find that Len and Michaela had organized a trip to Paris, as my Christmas gift, the next day. We caught the Euro-star through the chunnel. Upon arriving in Paris, we caught a taxi to the Fiat Hotel, which turned out to be a few blocks away from Moulin Rouge. We did not partake in any of the cabaret, which in hindsight, was a great opportunity missed.
However, the shops nearby did offer some fanciful items for sale.
We dropped our bags and quickly head off walking the 3 km to the western end of Chapes-Elysees, in the center of Place Charles de Gaulle where we saw the Arc de Triomphe. The Arc is located on the right bank of the Seineat, the center of a dodecagonal configuration of twelve radiating avenues. It was much larger than I had imagined. We could have paid our fee and gone to the top, but we chose to hurry on to the Eiffel Tower.
My initial response to this 81 story iron lattice tower and the most recognizable structure in the world, was – It is Ugly! The structure itself is beautiful and impressive, but the thing that ruined it was the amount of telecommunication dishes attached to the top. Granted it is a wonderful place to put a communications dish, but it seemed to take away from the original beauty; akin to putting a cheap plastic bead in a pearl necklace. Even though the weather was cold with a wind, there was a long lineup of people waiting (It is the most-visited paid monument in the world.) It took us nearly an hour just to get to the ticket gate. Initially, we were going to take the 300 steps to the first level, then see if we were game for the 300 steps to the second level. But by the time we got our tickets, we opted to take the lift straight to the top, then made part of our way back down via the steps.
I am really glad we brought our beanies and gloves, because it was very cold at the top, and windy. The view was breathtaking! And worth every shivering minute waiting to get tickets. Once it started to get dark, the lights on the tower began to come alive. It felt odd to be in the center of the tower while the light show was in progress. It was one of the most beautiful light shows I have ever seen from the ground level, as well. The Ugly Tower had won me over..... It really was beautiful.
On our way back to the hotel we stopped at a lovely restaurant near our hotel and where I had a fantastic dinner of Carpaccio de boeuf. This was my first Carpaccio and was a bit surprised that it is basically raw beef. But since I was a kid, I have eaten raw beef – much to my parents chagrin – so I actually loved it! All meals in Paris were accompanied by a basket of fresh bread and a small bowl of mustard. Add some red wine and this could have been a meal in itself, instead of a wonderful appetizer.
The next day we headed back to Champs-Élysées and did some shopping. I was in need of a new winter coat and had made up my mind to buy one in Paris. To add to this, my dear friend, Lionel Rémillard, who was weak with cancer and has since passed away, insisted that I buy “something nice” for myself as a gift from him. I had in mind a long black woolen coat with buttons off center. We walked into a shop and there it was! Exactly as I had imagined it! It fit like it was made just for me. (I add this comment in 2013 – I wore that coat until it began to show its age, then I took it to a seamstress who duplicated it, I liked it that much.)
We went into perfume shops, dress shops, and galleries. Interestingly, one exclusive gallery required us to be rung in. I doubt very much if we would have been allowed in had I not been wearing the new winter coat. The old one would have kept me on the outside peering in.
Walking along the streets of Paris was interesting in itself. We walked along Champs-Élysées to Place de la Concorde then onto Rue de Rivoli. The streets are wide and perfectly tree lined, with the tops of the trees being trimmed perfectly square to the street side.
There was a carousel tucked away in the trees that gave me a sort of horror movie kind of creeps.
Place de la Concorde was a great place to meander through as the weather had warmed up, the space was inviting and the statues intriguing.
Further along Rue de Rivoli we came across a street artist who has been in the same spot for years. We had good laugh and chat with him before buying a few pieces of art.
Early the next morning we went to the white-domed Sacré-Cœur Basilica. The basilica is located at the summit of the butte Montmartre, the highest point in the city (130 metres high). Montmartre district is primarily known for the basilica on its summit as well as a nightclub district – makes sense.... Many artists had studios or worked around the community of Montmartre such as Salvador Dali, Claude Monet, Pablo Picasso and Vincent van Gogh. Montmartre is also the setting for several hit films. The church is located at the top of a long flight of steps. There were benches set on the edge of the forecourt that overlooked the city. It was lovely, despite the rain, and I am sure breathtaking on a sunny day.
We wound our way to the Louvre, stopping at a quaint little shop for some hot soup and coffee, as it was still very cold. We never tired of little coffee shops, they were so lovely as compared to the Starbucks kind that I am used to in Canada. These had an old fashioned charm where you could actually imagine the former great minds and men gathering to discuss the politics, sciences, and philosophy that ultimately shaped our world.
The Louvre is actually a palace dating back to the 1200's. Around the late 1600's it began its function as a museum, showing the royal collection. It was another 100 years before it was officially designated as a museum. To see each of the 35,000 art objects in the Louvre, taking 60 seconds for each, would take roughly 65 operational days to see everything. Considering it also covers 650,000 square feet (over 11 football fields), you might want to allow some resting time.....
The famous pyramid in the main court was erected in 1989. It seems a little out of place in the old courtyard, but it is a beautiful thing in itself. We realized that we were fixed for time, so we made a decision to view only selected pieces, Mona Lisa being the top of the list. The queue was very long to see her. Possibly because it was the Christmas season or a security issue, but they had us go through a narrow aisle and were not allowed to stop for more than 10 seconds before the guard told us to move along. The picture itself is very small. I was expecting something huge, like most of the other portraits in the galleries. Obviously, no pictures were allowed. Other highlights were seeing Venus de Milo and the Winged Victory of Samothrance.
The construction of Notre Dame began in 1163 and was not completed until 1250. As with all old cathedrals of that strong Catholic era, it was absolutely grand with its high arches, ornate designs and magnificent organ.
It was among the first buildings in the world to use the flying buttress (arched exterior supports). The building was not originally designed to include the flying buttresses around the choir and nave but after the construction began, the thinner walls (popularized in the Gothic style) grew ever higher and stress fractures began to occur as the walls pushed outward. In response, the cathedral's architects built supports around the outside walls, and later additions continued the pattern.
We went to Notre Dame on a Sunday. Because there was a mass going on, we did not have the opportunity to explore as we would have liked. That being said, that did not prevent some hawkers and vendors from setting up their tables of wares literally beside the people attending mass, with only a curtain separating them from view but not muffling any sounds of haggling that may be taking place. I found it rather disgusting and realized they were set up only for tourists like myself - I quickly left. I hope to go back one day to climb the nearly 400 steps to get a good look at the gargoyles and bell.
Our time in Paris came to a close too quickly, and we had to return to London where we celebrated the ringing in of the new year at a lovely restaurant and had a wonderful time.
