4th to 5th of April
I’m finally going to Peru after coming in first place at the World Nomads Photography scholarship. In Peru, I’m going to meet up with Jason and the rest of the team. Essentially there are two crews, a film crew that consists of Greg (Producer), Julian (filmmaker) and Andre (actor), then there is me, Jason (NatGeo) and Phil (World Nomads). As I wait for my first flight on my journey my mind wonders back to the call I received from Jason on a cold winter morning in Reykjavík, “Hey mate, I’m going to teach you a new word you will be using a lot next April, Hola. You are going to Peru!!” For the next few days I was totally stunned and could not believe I was going on this adventure and get the opportunity to travel to this mysterious country and also to experience how a professional NatGeo photographer works.
The flights from Iceland to Peru were long and mostly uneventful. First leg of the flight was from Keflavik to New York. On my way I saw the amazing landscape of Greenland at 30 thousand feet. I landed at JFK during sunset and could see New York’s skyline glowing in the distance. Then I took the overnight flight to Lima. After a short stop in Lima I flew to Cusco where I met Nick from Explorandes and Wilfredo Gamarra, our guide for the next days.
Nick drove me to the Aranwa Cusco hotel, the plan was that I would be on the same flight as Greg and Julian, but they got delayed and missed the flight because of problems with the customs. At the Aranwa Cusco hotel I finally met Jason who will be my mentor on this trip. Jason is a full time photographer at National Geographic and is your typical friendly Australian. Shortly after arriving at the hotel I began to feel a headache that would escalate throughout the day. Before I traveled to Peru I had heard that people could get altitude sickness when staying in places such as Cusco which is about 3500 meters above sea level. Phil had the same symptoms as me, so I suspected that I was experiencing altitude sickness for the first time.
The Aranwa Cusco hotel is located near the Plaza de Armas, one of the main squares of Cusco. We had a late lunch at a place called Green's, but Cusco has become known in recent years for great food culture, and this restaurant didn’t disappoint me in that regard. The restaurant was built on old Inca ruins and we could see the old walls still standing, it was amazing to see the craftsmanship of these old walls. After lunch we walked the main square of Cusco, Plaza de Armas. In the square you can find two old Spanish churches, before the churches were built, the Incas called the square: "Square of the warrior".
The square is full of life and we saw Qhapaq Qolla dancers who come from the southern Andes region and as I understand it, the dancers represent the merchants of Lake Titicaca who used to bring products to trade or exchange for products from the Pallacartambo and the jungle regions.
When Greg and Julian arrived at Cusco, the plan was for the whole crew to go out for dinner, but at that point, the headache had escalated more and I also felt nausea so I decided to go to bed early, with the hope of feeling better the next day.
6th of April
I woke up feeling a little better from the altitude sickness, I did not have much appetite at breakfast, so I tried the famous coca tea as it helps overcome altitude sickness, and I think it may have helped in diminishing the symptoms. The coca leaf has been chewed and brewed for tea traditionally for centuries among natives in the Andean region and it acts as a mild stimulant, it suppresses hunger, thirst, pain, and fatigue.
After breakfast we headed to The Sacred Valley. First we visited a place called Saksaywamon. It was put on the UNESCO World Heritage list with Cusco in 1983 for recognition and protection. Saksaywamon was first built by the Killke culture in 1100, but later it was expanded by the Incas. After the spanish invasion in 1533, parts of the Saksaywamon walls were used to build the new Spanish Cusco so a big part of the site is sadly gone now.
Our next stop was the Amaru community but on the way over there we drove through the Sacred valley that was formed by the Urubama River. It contains many Inca antiquities connected with ancient paths of the Inca trail. The Amaru community consists of about 200 families and their income is mostly based on agriculture. To help their income, the communities have organized activities to educate people about their ancient heritage and culture. The Amaru people are very friendly and proud of their origins and we had the opportunity to see the processes of creating textile, from dying the wool with herbs, weaving, to the final product. We participated when they made sacrifices to the Pachamama god and saw how they plow the fields with ancient tools and utilities.
At lunch I tasted guinea pig for the first time. If you are wondering what it tastes like then I would say it tastes like chicken with a touch of lamb. We ended the day at a Aranwa Sacred Valley Hotel & Wellness in the Sacred Valley.
The culture of the Amaru is maybe not that different from how Iceland was back in the 18th century before we got modernized and electricity or other comforts came in to the homes. Icelanders were farmers or fishermen back in the day and worked very hard in harsh conditions. They used the Icelandic sheep for food that had to last all year around with salting smoking and fermentation of the meat and all parts of the animal, from the ram's balls, to sheep's heads was eaten. One of my favorite foods is actually boiled sheep's head with eyes, ears and all. At that time wood was very scarce so most houses were built with turf. Icelanders have come a long way in a short period of time and the turf houses are now only for show. The culture of the Amaru reminds me a little bit how it used to be in my country over hundred years ago and I wonder how or if this culture will evolve in the coming decades.
7th of April
The first thing on our agenda this morning was the Salt Pans of Maras. We had a beautiful drive up there and the weather was great with clear skies. Since Inca times, salt has been gathered in Maras by evaporating salty water from a subterranean stream. The creek absorbs minerals from the soil so the water is very salty. They get the salt by overflowing the creek into many small ponds, where the water evaporates so the salt remains in the dry ponds. The salt is then gathered and transported to markets. At the Salt Pans of Maras we met Roberto, a 70 year old man, who has worked there for over 20 years. He was repairing the ponds after the raining season and was carrying 50kg sacks down to the ponds.I was surprised to see how little has changed from the time of the Incas. It’s very tempting to want to modernize the process but that would mean we would miss out on the unique experience. I do appreciate the process, it’s amazing to be able to observe the craftsmanship but I do realize it’s a hard way to make a living.
After driving through the village Maras, we entered Moray, old Inca ruins. It is believed that these terraced circular depressions served the purpose of a greenhouse where it was possible to grow many kinds of plants and crops at different temperatures. Their design and orientation gives a temperature difference of as much as 15 °C between the top and the bottom of the depressions.
When we left Moray we were behind on the schedule, so that when we came to Lake Piuray it was very late in the evening and we had lost most of the sunlight. At this point we experienced the disadvantages of having two groups traveling together and trying to capture the same scene at the same time. At the beginning of the journey I had a shooting brief that I had to work through, but it’s very difficult to do that when you are third in line to capture specific moments so in the end I decided to relax, wait my turn and hope for the best. Finally I went out on the lake on a traditional reed boat. These kinds of boats have been made in Peru for centuries. On the boat I could get closer to the subject and managed to take a few pictures before sunset. After dinner we sat around a campfire and enjoyed the Peruvian night sky. We stayed the night in tents by the lake. Though we were in South America it can get a bit chilly at high altitudes so this reminded me a lot of camping in Iceland.
8th of April
We had to wake up early after a late night, but it did not matter because we were heading to Machu Picchu. I have always wanted to go to Machu Picchu after having seen pictures of it in a National Geographic magazine. After a quick breakfast we went by car to Ollanta which is an ancient town that has changed little since the Inca prevailed with charming narrow streets and many old relics. From Ollanta we took the train to Aguas Calientes and then a zigzagging bus ride up the mountain with some sheer drops and a view to die for.
Entrance to Machu Picchu is limited to 2,500 visitors per day, and entrance to Mt. Huayna Picchu is restricted to 400 visitors per day to reduce the impact of tourism on the site. You don’t fully comprehend the scale of the city until you enter the area and the serenity of the site took me by surprise. The city sits in between two mountains, Machu Picchu and Huayna Picchu and after a quick stop and a look around we headed up Huayna Picchu which is about 360 metres further above the city. We climbed the old Inca trail up to the top and I have to say that it’s a hard climb as the steps are shallow and you have to be careful to keep your balance especially if you are carrying a heavy backpack like I was. From the top we had a breathtaking view of the surrounding area and you could see the Urubamba River below. On the sides of the mountain are temples and terraces and it is believed that the high priest used to live there and that he made the journey down to Machu Picchu every morning. It must have been amazing living up there, the view is spectacular and well worth the tough hike.
On our way down it started to rain and the path became slippery, that made the hike more difficult. After the rain stopped, we continued to explore the city and I must say that the Inca’s were remarkable people. All these structures were made with primitive tools and without the use of the wheel. We took the last bus down the mountain and then traveled back to Cusco.
9th of April
When I woke up this morning I was sore after we explored Machu Picchu yesterday. It was raining in Cusco and after breakfast we drove to the airport to catch the flight to Puerto Maldonado. When we arrived at the airport our flight was delayed because of the rain and after waiting for a few hours our flight was canceled. So there was nothing else to do but go back to Cusco and we ended up at the Hotel Plaza de Armas.
I mostly spent the day sorting out my gear and backing up my photos. The plan was to go into the Amazon the next day with the first flight out of Cusco. I had alpaca stew for late lunch and like all Peruvian food it tasted very good. Afterwards I bought a long sleeved shirt to take with me to the jungle to protect myself from the flies and as it turned out it was one of the best investments I made on this trip as the flies really liked me.
It was still raining in the afternoon so I walked around Cusco for the rest of the day. There are still some remnants of old buildings standing from the era of the Incas but they are usually part of newer buildings. I wonder how the city would look like today if more buildings had survived and were left standing as they were.
10th of April
Woke up to a beautiful morning and after breakfast we drove to the airport and finally got a flight to Puerto Maldonado. Puerto Maldonado is close to the Bolivian border and located where Tambopata and Madre de Dios rivers join together. This is a jungle town and it’s estimated that around 30.000 gold miners are active in the region. After landing we meet our guide, Yuri Torres Rivera, a local man that not only knows the area and wildlife very well but also has this devious sense of humor that fits us very well.
According to our guides the greatest threat to the Amazon rainforest is illegal gold processing. Mercury is used to separate the precious metal from the river silt and then dumped into the rivers and lakes of the Amazon region, affecting the ecosystem and the food chain. Mercury is extremely toxic and can be absorbed through the skin but can also be inhaled, which means that the native communities have roughly five times higher level of mercury in their body then is considered safe by the World Health Organization.
We went by boat on the river Rio Tambopata to Posada Amazonas which is a rainforest lodge where we stayed the first night. It is located in the rainforest where you have a unique opportunity to experience the Amazonian wildlife. It was raining in the afternoon when we arrived at the lodge. When I first stepped into the jungle the experience was amazing. You could feel that the rainforest was full of life and everywhere I looked there was something new to see. At each step I took I heard a new sound that came from insects, birds and other animals. There is competition for every square meter and the phrase "it’s a jungle out there" pops up in my mind. I went macro shooting for the first time in dark and saw insects that I did not know existed. Jason helped me out with setting up my camera and I managed to take some shots. I don’t own a macro lens and as I look back on this trip I wish I had brought one with me. I bought some cheap macro tubes that I planned to use, but on the first day one of them broke so my 70-200mm lens fell to the ground. Thankfully, nothing happened to the lens but it showed me that cheap and good rarely go together. However, I did use the other macro tube for the rest of the trip but was always worried about it breaking. To invest in good quality equipment is expensive. You can buy gear that can last 30 years or 30 seconds so you have to be able to adapt and choose what’s right for your level of photography.
It was a strange feeling sleeping in the lodge as our rooms were open to the forest so you could hear every sound from the jungle but still you had all the luxury of a comfortable room and a soft bed.
11th of April
We had an early start, before sunrise as we planned to take pictures of the giant otter that lives by the Lake Tres Chimbadas, but they are most active during daylight hours and we wanted to get there early. The giant otter can be up to 1.7 meters long feeds mainly on fish and stays in small family units. It is now in danger of extinction because of demands for its fur. To get to the lake we went by boat up the river Rio Tambopata and walked through the forest. On the way we saw tracks made by a jaguar but unfortunately not the animal.
When we arrived at the lake we went on board a catamaran and sailed in search of the giant otter. The water and its surroundings were full of life, we saw many species of birds, snakes and eventually two otters who were having fish for breakfast when we spotted them. They disappeared as quickly as they appeared and the only evidence I have of seeing them are few very small and blurry images. After the otters disappeared we went piranha fishing with wooden poles and used meat as bait, Phil caught one piranha and it was much smaller than I had imagined and not very threatening but looks can be deceiving.
Because of our one day delay, we had to change our schedule and the teams were split up. Jason, our guide Yuri and I went to our next destination, Refugio Amazonas. After a short meal break we hiked to a nest of a Harpy Eagle. There was one chick in the nest and the mother was nurturing it. I got few pictures of the mother and chick in the nest, but I didn't have the right lens for the job as the nest is very high from the ground.
The plan was to watch the sunset over the canopy from a tower but it was in a considerable distance away so we had to hurry to catch the moment. The Canopy tower is about 30m high, and from there you can see over the rainforest.
When we got up there I was dripping with sweat, Jason said I was like my own weather system and I think he’s right. The climb was well worth it as we watched the sun go down behind the canopy. After dark the nocturnal creatures of the forest come around with new sounds and activities. On our way back to the lodge I realized it was completely dark. I could not see any stars or the moon because of the forest. I’m not used to this level of darkness as in Iceland you can always see the sky. During summer the sun doesn’t really set and it’s daylight 24/7. For me this level of darkness was a whole new experience as I could not even see my own feet!
12th of April
We woke up at dawn to catch the sunrise over the canopy from the same tower as the day before. So we climbed up there again and I was sweating like crazy as the day before. Again, the experience and view was amazing as I watched the forest come to life and the night mist slowly evaporate in the warm sunrise.
We took a boat to the Chuncho clay lick where dozens of large macaws lick the clay on the riverbank to get the minerals they need. It took some time for the macaws to settle down after we arrived so we waited and enjoyed the morning sun before we could observe them licking the clay. The macaws are a chatty bunch and not much happens without them knowing about it. It’s an amazing sight to see all those colorful macaws in groups as this is the only time they flock together.
Afterwards we moved to another lodge and went to the Tambopata research center. On the way we passed some miners who were not very pleased to see us and even more unhappy to see our cameras. Later we learned they had made a complaint to local authorities and we, and any other tourists, were not allowed to photograph or have any other interactions with them. I found it strange that miners were protected by local authorities especially because legal and illegal mining is a huge problem in the Amazon and it’s estimated that 30 to 40 tons of mercury is dumped into the environment annually in this small area alone.
After the boat ride we arrived at the Tambopata research center where they are studying the various aspects of the macaw to help us understand the interactions with the clay lick, food supply, breeding, and movements. We had dinner at the lodge, took some macro photos and ended the day by photographing the beautiful sunset over the Tambopata river where it goes into the forest on its long journey to the ocean.
13 th of April
I wake up to the sounds of the forest and I’m starting to identify some distinct sounds like the call of the howler monkey as they take up their calls every morning. I still can’t believe I’m in the Amazon. After breakfast we go to another clay lick close to the research center where we meet Carla, she is a volunteer at the research center, her job is to help out with researching the macaws. Carla is watching the macaws with a spotting scope and taking notes on bird activity and the weather.
At this time it started to rain heavily so we had to return to the research center. When the rain stopped we watched volunteers get a macaw chick out of its nest, and observed when they weighed and measured the chick and returned it back to its nest. The process of getting the macaw from its nest is only done by someone climbing 20 meters up and carefully taking the bird out and lower it down in a cage while being mindful of the parents that are roaming the area.
I went on my own to take some macro pictures, and saw howler monkeys and all kinds of insects. I never thought it was possible to sweat so much as I did on this trip and I think that I have sprung a leak somewhere.
In the afternoon we went to a lake where we saw a white Caiman crocodile with her babies. I also saw bats, tree frogs and a bamboo rat. Before I went to bed I took a shower and as the lights were turned off at nine I was mostly making my way in the dark. As I was blindly reaching for my toothbrush I sensed and heard something run down the wall beside my arm. When I finally got my heart out of my pants I turned on my flashlight and saw a possum glaring at me. One more thing I can add to my long list of things I saw in the Amazon.
14th of April
Early start as usual, we went on a boat and the plan was to try to find jaguars or other wild cats. Chances of seeing felines are small but we kept our hopes up and hoped to see at least one. However, this morning they were otherwise engaged and instead we saw all different kinds of birds, possum and a white caiman among other things.
After lunch we hiked to take some pictures of tree buttress roots which were really large and beautiful. To see tree buttress roots is completely new to me. Back home we hardly have any forests to speak of and there is a saying in Iceland that if you get lost in a forest you only have to stand up and you’ll find your way out. The tall trees and the wildlife are completely foreign to me and at the same time a new challenge to capture as a photographer.
On our way we saw white-lipped peccaries which resemble a pig and make an unsettling sound when they rub their tusks together. They do so to warn potential predators of their presence but also to sharpen their tusks. Peccaries are aggressive and most predators try to avoid them. They can be dangerous to humans and have reportedly caused serious injuries and even killed people. Peccaries are social animals and form big herds with up to 100 animals. First you hear them and when they get closer you can smell them. And yes, they really stink, they have this nasty onion sweat smell which has earned them the nickname skunk pig. Later we took some macro pictures and saw leaf cutter ants, black howler monkeys and brown capuchin monkeys.
After a long and hot day Jason and I used the opportunity to take a swim in the Tambopata river to cool down. Taking a swim in the Amazon river is definitely one of the things I will never forget and I feel very fortunate to have won this scholarship.
15th of April
This is my last day at the lodges and as I wake up I see a macaw making his daily foraging in the hotel rooms. You better not leave food laying around in your room because he will finish that for you in no time.
I started the day by observing when they measured and weighed the macaw chick again but they do that every day until they leave the nest. It was with sadness when we left the lodge. I really enjoyed our stay as it gives you the unique opportunity to experience the Amazon in a very comfortable surroundings.
On our way down to the river we come across a tortoise in the middle of the path and I instantly thought of a line from a movie “You shall not pass!”. Jason tells me that he usually sees them in food markets and it’s so wonderful to see them alive and in their natural habitat. We take the little fella of the path so it won't end up on someone's dinner table. We head back to Puerto Maldonado on a five hour boat ride down the Tambopata river. The water had subsided in the last few weeks which make it harder to navigate and the trip takes longer than usual.
On our way we stop at Camino Verde and meet Robin Van Loon, 32 year old American. About 11 years ago he bought a land next to the river and founded Camino Verde. His focus is on reforestation strategies to preserve important endangered plants of the Amazon and his mission is to plant trees and at the same time encourage others to do the same. For me it was magical to see him pick up food from the ground, cut it open by using a machete and hand it over for us to eat. This is very different from what I’m used to as in my country we have to import most of our fruits because of our cold climate.
We came back to Puerto Maldonado late in the evening and stayed at the WASAI Eco Lodge.
16th of April
This morning we are heading to the community of Boca Pariamanu where WWF Peru has been supporting The Indigenous Forest Association in Madre de Dios (AFIMAD) who are dedicated to the sustainable use of the Brazil nut. Over 120 families are involved in this project and through participatory workshops, forest management and organic certification; their goal is to ensure best practices related to the Brazilian nut. We set out at sunrise for the two hour boat ride up the Madre de Dios river. Halfway there the engine in the boat stalled and we drifted for some time before the captain managed to bring it back to life with a change of a fuel filter. When traveling in new countries you always see and experience something new and sometimes it’s even bizarre like when we passed a group of cheerful guys on a boat dragging four cows on each side. According to our captain it’s the best and safest way to transport big animals long distances, which makes sense to me but I don’t know how the cows feel about it.
After arriving we walked around the village and visited a school for children and looked at the faculties where the Brazilian nuts are processed. There are about 430 tons of nuts that these 120 families produce yearly from this area.
We hiked to where the nuts are gathered and observed the process of using a machete to open the main woody capsule that resembles a coconut and inside are 8 to 24 Brazilian nuts. After filling a 50kg sack with nuts it is carried 2 - 3 km by hand down to the village where the sorting takes place. All Brazilian nuts that come from Peru are handpicked from the wild forest. They don’t have any plantations in this area. I was feeling a bit woozy after carrying my backpack all this way in the heat but I can’t imagine carrying a bag three times heavier all this way.
17th of April
WWF Peru works with native communities to protect and conserve the Amazon by encouraging sustainable use of the forest. This morning we headed to Iberia in the province of Tahuamanuwhere rubber tapping has been a source of income for generations. When the bark of the Shiringa trees are scratched, natural white latex flows from the wound and is then collected by the tappers. The latex is used in everyday products like ponchos and backpacks but lately it’s been used in more fashionable items such as handbags and shoes.
It’s raining when Jason, Yuri and I set out for the three hour drive to Iberia and with us in the car are Maria and Lorena from the WWF Peru office. After turning off the highway we end up on a dirt road and when driving up the first hill the car starts to lose traction but after giving the car a push we made it up the hill. It was decided to walk the rest of the way and after about an hour’s walk we arrived at the first location where they make special fabric from the latex and color it by using smoke.In the past, tappers have produced rubber of lower value that needs to be processed before being used, but with development of new processing techniques value is added to the product at source. There wasn’t much room in the small hut so Jason went inside while the fabric was processed and smoked. After about three minutes he came out again with watery eyes and coughing but that did not stop him from reentering and this went on for some time until the fabric was ready.
After walking back to the car we set out to where the actual rubber tapping takes place and after five minutes of driving we came to the first hill of many, and like before, we had to push the car up the hill. I think it was at this point where I understood how the Incas achieved all their accomplishments because no matter how long or steep the hills where we always got to the top and it was done with a smile and cheerful laughter while we pushed the car. Many hills later we arrived at our destination where we saw how the bark of the Shiringa tree is cut and the latex is gathered. It takes the latex about three hours to coagulate so it’s hard work to tapp over hundred trees in one day. After a long eventful day we drove back to Puerto Maldonado.
18.apríl
A late rise at seven, on my last day in Peru. It’s been an incredible journey and I have experienced things I could not have imagined. Even though it was hot and humid and I was sweating a lot I never really felt uncomfortable. There were times when the heat was a bit overwhelming but it was nothing a little bit of water and rest couldn’t fix. I was surprised how well I adjusted to the heat and humid in the Amazon coming from a cold island in the north Atlantic.
This morning, Jason, Yuri and I visit The Mariposario Tambopata Butterfly Farm in Puerto Maldonado. It was first opened by Augusto Mulanovich in 2000 but after two years he closed it down but in January this year he reopened it along with his wife Valeria Luna. At this time the farm has 12 species of butterflies but Augusto and Valeria are working on introducing more in the nursery next to the exhibit. We walk around the enclosure and I finally manage to capture some photos of these elusive beauties. I’m constantly surprised how full of life the Amazon is and the diversity of species. It’s persistently under threat by humans but yet it keeps on giving to those who rule its fate.
After saying goodbye to our fantastic guide Yuri we catch a flight to Cusco and then another one to Lima. While I'm waiting for my flight to New York I think about what it takes to be a National Geographic photographer. As it turns out it takes a lot, but not necessarily in the areas I expected. After watching Jason work I see that he has a knack for reading people and a very good eye for “capturing the moment”. This is something I feel I need to work on. There is a great deal of work to be done before and after each shoot when you’re out in the field which is made even more complicated when you have little or no communication or electricity. All the challenges I met on this trip have been demanding but very awarding and have made me want to be a better photographer and explore other sites of the world in the future.
I’m really going to miss Jason and the guys but I’m also going to miss Peru and its people. I am thankful for this opportunity and I will cherish this adventure forever.
