So here we are in Jordan. It's been a hell of a week.
First off, we had to deal with leaving Dahab and our friends there. Hard enough under normal circumstances, but harder still in the midst of unrest and uncertainty. It wasn't easy, at all, and I still want to be there very, very much. But Wanda can't re-enter Egypt for another 5 months - plus with things as they currently are, it's hardly advisable - so push on we must.
Second, we had tyre issues. Mooshkila kabeera: big problem. Wander wears unusual tyres (9.00/16s for those interested) and potentially lethal cracks have been appearing in the rear right one, growing at a frightening rate and increasing in number with every km we drive. It's impossible to say how long the others will last, but after 10 years - and 30,000km - they're pretty well worn. Our spares are shot as well. Basically, we needed new tyres. Three weeks ago, we thought we'd adequately anticipated the issue when Huw ordered new ones from Cairo to Aqaba, but within days it became apparent that shipping tyres to some bloody hippies in Jordan would, rightly so, be very far from the top of the priority list for anyone in the Egyptian capital. We called and visited about 25 tyre shops in Aqaba and Amman and to our amazement, found just what we were looking for. (These ones, again, only if you're interested.) Tyres: tick.
Next up, visa issues. On Sunday morning, we went to Syrian embassy to request visas. The response was a polite but very firm No. Absolutely not. No chance. Not on your nelly. No visas given out to anyone who has an embassy in their home country. We have 4 choices:
1) reassess our route out of the Middle East. Hmm. These are the countries that border us here in Jordan:
Iraq: not keen.
Saudi Arabia: ditto. Plus we'd have to get married to enter. Plus I couldn't drive there. Plus it would only lead to Yemen, Oman, Qatar or UAE. So that's out.
Egypt: not able to re-enter for 5 months.
Israel: not an option. Ferries from there to Greece aren't running and once we have an Israeli stamp in our passports, Syria is definitely out.
So Syria it is: beautiful, good food, and on the way home. Yes please.
Other options to get into Syria:
2) try our luck at the border - unlikely as a British bloke was turned away just the other day.
3) achieve temporary Jordanian residency - not as crazy as it sounds, and actually might be possible given the people we're meeting.
4) get our visas from the embassy in London - have a plan but it's not strictly legal, so trying to avoid this.
Where are those car wings again?
So it's been a challenging (and expensive) week, but all made far easier by the sheer beauty and scale of Wadi Rum, the mysticism of Petra by candlelight, the charm of Amman, several opportunities for exciting writing/proofing/teaching work, and by the presence of the delightfully infectious Maggie who I'd met at El Salam in Dahab and who travelled with us from Aqaba to Amman. On Sunday she left for Ethiopia as she continues on her world tour: follow her at www.girlventures.net.
The challenges continue but for now we're upbeat and excited to be travelling and working in this fascinating, beautiful country, where the people vocally love their King (refreshing!) and welcome us into their homes and lives with incredible warmth and hospitality.
Here's Huw in Wadi Rum. More photos and more soon up at thelongandwinding.
