Myanmar is proving to be everything I hoped it would be and I have so far only been here a day. (Contemplating changing my outbound flight because there's just so much to learn and experience here that 11 days won't cut it). I lucked out with my cheap guesthouse find, that included wifi and a double bed! My own bathroom! Hot shower! Room to exercise! And I was the only westerner in the joint! I went outside to explore my block of Mandalay, primarily driven by gnawing hunger pains, and eagerly approached 2 women who sat at a low table outside of a shop, piercing meats and other unidentifiable foods on skewers. I eyed spring rolls and noodles in a bowl and cursed myself for not learning how to translate "vegetarian?" I pointed to the food in question and asked in english, not expecting them to know what I said. They didn't, and instead giggled to each other and scanned me curiously. I smiled and inspected the noodles closer- they seemed meat free. One of the women hollered for a man in the shop who came out and told me in broken English how much the food cost. I pointed and asked "vegetable?" He nodded yes. The women motioned for me to sit down with them, on a small step stool and I was served a spring roll, sauce, and noodles. I gratefully filled my hungry belly, and the women watched me incredulously and giggled amongst each other, occasionally saying things to me I didn't understand, but their smiles were warm and genuine. I marveled at how different this was from thailand, where there were western travelers everywhere, but here I was the different one and it gave me a more authentic cultural feel. Other people on the street stared, some pointed me out to a friend, some waved shyly. An older woman came to talk to the ladies and played with my hair. A mom and girl toddler ate with us and I played peekaboo with her to get her to warm up. Initially she was sassy and shy, but upon leaving with her mom I blew her a kiss and she turned to blow kisses back to me all the way down the street. I drank a Myanmar lager beer and took pictures with a couple people who approached with their phones on selfie mode. The man who had helped me with the translation earlier asked me where I was from. I gulped, and a voice urged "say Canada!" but instead I said the US.
Traveling in thailand, I met people from all over the world and some of them commented to me on the dismal state the US is in, with that evil trump character's bullshit blasting on the news. Some of them questioned how our country is allowing this, and there was little I could do to defend it. I couldn't say that the United States wasn't about that, because the evidence speaks otherwise. Trump and bigot leaders like him haven't risen to their positions without the support and encouragement of the masses. Fire doesn't spread without oxygen. The people of America have been fanning this flame with their own hatred. Hatred that was socially unacceptable just a couple of years ago has not only leaked into the mainstream, but is now politically encouraged. I'm disgusted with the events that have transpired, disappointed in the direction my country is headed, and worried that all the progress we've made for human rights will be shattered. America is special for the existing diversity, and for the people who love and learn from each other's differences. Ironically, that which makes the country great is what is being jeopardized with the promise of greatness. All of the travelers who brought up the topics spoke either from a place of pity, humor, or scorn. Good job America. The rest of the world thinks we are a laughingstock, a land of racist assholes. Unfortunately, the blinding sense of nationalism many Americans carry impedes any empathy necessary for change.
"Oh, America" the man said, and I understood he was telling the women that's where I was from. I kept smiling at them and remembered it was important that I, if no one else, represent the good that exists in our country, because if they base their opinions on the hatred shown in the news alone, it would be sure to put a sour taste in their mouths of Americans. They had to know that many of us have an interest in and great respect for other cultures, ethnicities, and values. I couldn't articulate that to them but I could demonstrate it. I spent some time with the women and passers by, communicating nonverbally, laughing a lot. They were surprised when I asked for seconds and took pleasure in filling my bowl again. When I left I bowed to them, grateful for their service and interactions, grateful to have spent the time getting a glimpse at their lives. I walked towards my hostel and found 2 boys kicking a deflated soccer ball in the driveway. I greeted them and asked to join. Next thing I know we have two teams assembled, I'm dripping in sweat and falling on the ground scoring goals, and people are smiling, stopping to watch momentarily before going on their way. The boys and I cheer and jump up and down; I can tell they're really enjoying themselves. A couple of hours flew by and it was dark. One boy said "hungry" and I understood he had to go home to eat. "Thank you very much" he spoke slowly and sweetly; and I thanked him too. My afternoon with them was much more enjoyable than had I gone to any tourist spot in Mandalay. There was so much I wanted to ask them, about living in Myanmar, about their families, memories, and perspectives, but soccer games would have to do for now.
So blessed for this life and the wonder that unfolds every day!
