So Mexico City has come up trumps in a major way. First stop: total success. Although it is furiously heavily populated - streams of peculiarly potato-esque mexicans heading in every conceivable direction at all hours of the day - the Centro Histórica region in which I’m staying has a delightfully mellow vibe. Vibrant, but relaxed. A district of pastel-shaded colonial architecture loaded with small cafés, bars and the essential greasy sizzle of street food vendors. Quesadillas, tacos y enchiladas? $1.25. Yes please. Nearby is the main square (the ‘Zocalo’) which hums with activity and provides access to one of the slickest metro systems I’ve ever encountered. Forget waiting for trains. 3 pesos to literally anywhere in the city, and free carriage entertainment of varying qualities. Up above, overlooking the plaza, is a museum exhibiting some insane frescoes which render the artist’s vision of Mexico’s rich and turbulent history. Plus a little casual hagiography for the admittedly solid Benito Juarez.
En el segunda día I forged out of El D.F. for a day trip to Teotihuacán, a precolonial Mesoamerican metropolis whose growth chronologically paralleled the fall of Rome. The whole compound apparently would have been populated by around 100,000 people and displayed some seriously complex urban planning, following their 260 day calendrical cycle, in sync with the skies above. The 3rd largest pyramid in the world, built without the use of pack animals, metal tools or even the friggin wheel. Slavery has undoubtedly been one of the blackest recurring marks in human history, but god DAMN did it get shit done. The pyramids of Sun, Moon, and Feathered Serpent are become features of the landscape, hermanos of the mountains beyond. The mindblowing setting was only slightly marred by the wheezing of Mexicans as they heaved themselves up hundreds of steps with a flamboyant lack of fitness. A little embarrassing. Perhaps the sun god resented my scorn, though, chastising me with some fierce neck burns. Nowhere to hide from the harsh midday rays on a pyramid.
Nonetheless the highlight of my stay has got to be La Merced Market of Mexico City itself. Today was spent exploring this sprawling labyrinth of stalls selling a ridiculous variety of wares: had I been so inclined I could have supplemented my hat purchase with a delicious range of spices, counterfeit DVDs, and basic witchdoctor materials. A chaotic mélange of sights, smells, and flavours. Nuts. Refuelling in amongst the ad hoc eateries was delightful, and ecstatic to once again be in the company of mangos. God’s fruit.
HOWEVER i’ve gotta run. Mexico es loco.
