8th August
On train 2.5 nights: arrived 4am, but not impressed by my fellow passengers who got up 3 hours before our arrival to prepare. Bought my onward ticket to St Petersburg (even at this time in the morning there's a queue at the teciket window), then got coffee and waited for the metro to start running.
Katya (met Moscovites Katya and Korstya at Lake Baikal, and they kindly offered to be my Moscow hosts) met me off the metro and took me back to their apartment, explaining that like most Moscow apartments they are without hot water for 3 weeks due to the boiler system undergoing its annual service.
Moscow is suprisingly pleasant - thanks in part to Katya's thorough guided tour, and their hospitality. To be honest, based on both my preconceptions and stories I've hard from other back packers, I wasn't expecting much of Moscow. Probably a greyish sprawling city lacking any charm. But contrary to backpacker folklore, 2 days here isnt enough (especially given the queues to get in to the Kremlin). It also seems that Moscow has a thing for statues; Katya points one out on virtualy every street corner. I think Katya is secretly suprised at how few Russian writers, poets, scientists and politians I recognise.
Walked past their their old apartment block and Katya told me how their cat had jumped out of the top floor balcony window - and survived, turning up apparently unhurt one month later.
9th August
Met up with Jiu, A Malaysian girl studying aeronautical engineering in Moscow, who I originally met in Siberia. Went to the State history museum together and marvelled at things made by man 8000 years ago. Went back to Katya and Korstya's for Katya's birthday party. Unfortunately when I arrived they broke the news that their cat had bizarely died the previous night by jumping off the 8th floor balcony - as witnessed by Korstya. Felt terrible for them. And the cat. Wondered if cats commit suicide, but decided it wouldn't be appropriate to broach the subject.
Nonetheless the party did go on - with a mixture of wine, cognac, vodka and something homemade. Later as everyone drifted off home was informed "It's been decided you will now go clubbing with Andre". Was whisked to to an underground underground club. Upon entering the chillout room was actually a cellar room filled with books for the punters to browse. The Russians on their best friendliest behavior. All good. Hangover bad.
10th August
Manage a few hours kip, but K and K's apartment is only one small room. I sleep on a bed which is behind the wardrobe, next to the sofa. But they are already up and about when i get back, itching to take me out, plus I have plans to meet Jiu again. So together they show us around Moscow university where Katya used to study, including the rounds of many more statues. K and K fail to hide their suprise of my continued ignorance of Russian history, and Korstya does his best to educate me. The tour continues with various Moscow metro stops (Stalin did a good job here, they are really worth seeing), and my education continues..
Good end to my trip as my 3 friends see me off at the station. Feel like royalty for a moment, but the harsh reality of 3rd class sleeper life brings me back down to earth as surrounded teenagers partying on through the night.
