What can I say. It's stunning here. And the people seem less sour-faced here than other parts of Russia. (The Russians I've met in a social context have generally been friendly, helpful, and good spirited, however on first appearances they have a tendancy to be rude and miserable; especially when they are supposed to be providing some sort of service.)
Anyway, there's too much to see and do in St Petersburg - the city is like one big working museum. As opposed to Moscow where there is a lot of construction going on, here restoration works are everywhere. There are even a few signs in English around, so all in all it's much easier to be here than elswewhere in Russia.
Nonetheless despite the shiny exterior there are still signs of older times. On the subway one morning, a group of 4 retired uniformed soldiers got on - one with an amputated leg, another with a guitar and all smelling strongly of alcohol. Facing in to the carriage they broke in to sombre song, and the woman sitting opposite me immedialtey broke down in to tears. Her husband pushed 20 rubbles in to their hands. They stopped mid-song and moved on down the carriage.
Need several more days here. Saw lots (museums, galleries, churches, cathedrals, went to the ballet), but not enough. Got dragged out on another all-nighter.
Almost didn't leave. Foreigners all have to register their visas in Russia within 3 days of arriving in a city or they get in to big trouble with the police. The company I paid to register me lost my paper work, only managing to retrieve it a couple of hours before my train to Vilnius left. Also I had chosen my route home through Europe via Vilnius (Lithuania) in order to go round Belarus (which requires another visa). That was before I lost my train ticket (I'd put it in a 'safe' place before going out the previous day, however my vodka hangover erased that information..) Anyway, after a coordinated effort from all my fellow residents of the youth hostel, it finally turned up. Got to the station on the nick of time - only to find my Vilnius train went the long way round - through Belarus. Was not allowed to board the train. Had last minute scramble to get to the ticket desk, and by stroke of luck another train (that doesnt go through Belarus) had returned tickets, so was able to get that later in gthe evening instead :)
Got shouted at by man in left luggage cos I didn't understand. Got shouted at by attendant in train because I didn't understand her. Have lost count of number of times Russians have vented some anger on me for no real reason, excpet that that is the way things happen. Started to get angry back, at least inside. Now I am in Vilnius. Been here 13 hours hours and have not been on the receiving end of any objectional behaviour. Had a lot of very good times in Russia. Really, really! But it's nice not to be there anymore..
