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Postcard from Vancouver

CANADA | Monday, 26 September 2011 | Views [491]

I’m writing this whilst I wait from my breakfast -, or is it last night’s dinner? – at Mary’s Diner on Davie.  Mary’s Diner is your typical stereotype, a juke box playing various rock (well, it might be digital but it’s a juke box), plastic seating, lots of chrome, and movie star posters adorn the walls.  And neon, don’t forget the neon.  It’s fantastic.  And I’m starving.

It’s actually right by where I stayed 3 years ago, and I figure I should have stayed there again..  Davie is right in the heart of the gay district, and I’ve got to say, I feel really comfortable here... Robson, where my hotel is, is like staying on Oxford St..., right in the middle of all the ‘name’ shops...

But It was a nice little amble along, only 5 minutes or so through some green surburbia.  And I came across a tree, with a door and flowers and a sign said it was gnome’s home... surreal.

It’s kind of fitting, that I’m here in Vancouver, and beginning my travel blogs again.  When I started blogging last time, I hadn’t planned on ever coming home.  I didn’t quite know where I’d end up, if I’d end up anywhere, and I certainly didn’t even think of myself as having a home to go home to.  Now, I definitely do.  But back then, when I was feeling optimistic, I’d thought that maybe I’d come here, make my life in Vancouver, live & work abroad.  I knew I’d be able to get decent work, and I’d loved the city when I was here before.  It’s so laid back, relaxed, inclusive, yet cosmopolitan and full of buzz.  So, it’s apt that following what I could characterise as my breakdown/breakthrough, the next time I use my passport, is to come here.

But I’m rambling.  So far, this holiday has been amazing, and it hasn’t even started yet.  As soon as I got my bag checked-in and was through passport control & security, I felt a weight lift from me.  No stresses.  A strange weightless feeling that I tried to interrogate and decided it must be what ‘happy’ feels like.  Not the kind of happy that feels like being high, on drugs or alcohol, the kind of over-excitement kids feel, and is always far too temporary and usually followed by a crashing low.  No, the kind of happy that is calm, peaceful, content, and just ‘is’.  I kind of like it. 

The flight passed without too much incident.  Being over-tired, sleep eluded me, so I settled for 5 mini vodkas washed down with 2 cans of soda... During that time I watched True Grit and the Lincoln Lawyer – and enjoyed both more than I’d expected.  I didn’t even realise it was Matt Damon in True Grit until the titles at the end!  Doh!  And Matthew McConnahey should really make more films.  By the time I’d woken up the guy next to me to go the toilet, I realised that I was really quite nicely pissed and settled in for some shuteye.  I got about 2 hours, but it was better than nothing.  (I’m glad I made the sensible choice on the alcohol choice, vodka being much ‘cleaner’ to mix with altitude than cheap plonk).

45 minutes to get through passport control, but no time to wait for luggage and downtown traffic still meant that I was early to check into my room at the hotel, so I went to the hotel bar, had some chowder and a glass of their local sparkling wine to pass the time.  In what would surprise most of you, I sat at the high seats at the square bar, picture the bar in Cheers.  It was friendly and meant I could exchange in some banter with the waiters – they’d forgotten that amaretto goes into a blueberry tea, as well as grand marnier...  The room still wasn’t ready at 3pm but they upgraded me to the top floor which means I’ve got authentic art from the museum of anthropology hanging in my room, and a balcony.  It isn’t all that, though. But it’s comfortable.  I basically fell asleep straight away.

And woke up 16 hours later.  I guess, it was like going to bed at 11pm and waking up at 3pm, which , let’s face it, is how I used to spend my Sundays before I got both a social life and a busy work life...  So, I missed doing anything in Vancouver yesterday afternoon/evening, but I’ve got all day today.  And I needed that sleep!  Still managed to dream about work though...

Because it was early I had an indulgent bath with bubbles, slowly sorted out my stuff and here I am, eating Eggs Benedict with Canadian sausage... Except they call them Benny’s and the Canadian sausage seems to be a close cousin of Spam... Very very yummy, and just what I needed.  Continuous black coffee replenishments, and I am a happy girl.  This is a very busy place, it was emptyish when i came in, but now it’s packed and they’re queuing out the door... I came to the right place.

Next up, Granville Island.  If I get time, off to Gastown, and then later tonight Rogers Stadium for Ice Hockey, watching the Canucks. 

 

 

It’s now approaching 1pm and I’ve taken a brief break in a Blenz coffee shop – the local version of Starbucks, although they’ve plenty of those too.  This time I’m indulging in an iced tea, one of my favourite things which I really ought to make up at home...  I took the ferry across to Granville Island, huge towers of flats line the coast, but who’d care living in a sky-rise with a view like that..?  The market at Granville was a smorgasbord of different smells & aromas, salmon next to meat, next to veg, next to fruit, next to chocolate, next to the deli & the pasta counter, next to the Chinese & Indian comfort food counters.. Bread, rolls, pastries, cakes.  I was glad I’d already eaten, but still couldn’t resist the fruit skewer, so flavoursome.  You just don’t get fruit that tastes the same in the UK... Somehow, in the shipping they must suck out all the sweetness...

And then the dangerous part.... Jewellery, silk, handbags, postcards, pictures, tourist tat & fine art.  Once again, I went into the hat store, and once again I found a hat I loved, but didn’t buy it.  This one was a bit like a twenties swim hat in soft fleece with a flower on the side... It felt lovely, looked great but was just too ‘fussy’ & different for me to ever wear.  And at $88 I did the right thing and walked away... I wasn’t so strong with everything though, managed to spend a fortune on what will be my Mum’s Xmas present (sssshhh, in case she’s reading this) and bought some beautiful – not black, red (but with a rose) – fingerless glove things for myself.  I also popped back into the store where 3 years ago I bought myself a hammock.  I remember trying to figure out how to get the pole home, it was a nightmare.  And of course, I’ve never erected it, not having a garden, or a wooden beam in the ceiling where I’m allowed to hang it from... I didn’t buy another one...

The weather is warmish but muggy & wet... sometimes the rain is quite heavy, but mostly just light.  It’s pleasant and I really don’t mind it... That happy feeling – it seems to be here to stay... I hope.

Break-time over...

 

After my iced tea, I got distracted by a huge HMV where I just *had* to buy seasons 5&6 of Weeds, and be *very* disappointed that they didn’t have Californication... I also *had* to go into La Vie en Rose and buy a couple of skimpy little numbers that I may never wear... Well, I might....  and because the shop is called Rose, I *had* to buy a bag with the rose logo, and also a red rose... Which I hope doesn’t get too crushed in the journey home... (and first to Seattle, and to San Francisco...)

Shopping done, I decided as I was only a couple of blocks from the hotel I would return to dump the bags, so a quick detour and then out to Gastown.  Why is it, that something as usually as dull as getting the bus feels like a huge adventure in a strange town..?  I was more than mildly pleased with myself when I got on it... On my way I stumbled across the Look Out, which is high.  I need to look up how high.  But I took loads of pictures, the views were stunning, it was a shame it wasn’t a clearer day.

Then, into Gastown.  Quite disappointing – I thought it would be full of funky independent stores, but instead it had a few high end Hampstead type artsy stores and the rest was tourist tat.  Wandering on, I came across the Sun Yat Sen Chinese Garden, which was stunningly tranquil & beautiful.  Again, I took loads of pictures. Onto get my bearings for the Rogers stadium, which I found quite easily, but also found there was nowhere really to eat – unless I fancied MacDonalds or similar, which I didn’t – so back to Gastown to the Old Spaghetti Factory, which had taken up residence in the 70s in an old warehouse.  Beautiful decor.  Indifferent spaghetti.  And finally, back to Rogers for the game.

The Rogers stadium is a little like the O2, except much smaller and without all the shops & restaurants.  So, nothing like the O2 then.  Except it’s a Stadium trading on the name of the telco.  And so, I couldn’t quite switch off my work head, noting how they were encouraging ‘famcam’ MMS, and supporting the local youth charities...

The game was really something else.  Apparently there are 3 periods, each of 20 minutes.  Although, the clock does keep stopping, so the first period took about 45.  Several times during the period they stop for the ice to swept up (by cute girls with big brushes, and cute boys with spades & buckets), and in the interval of 16 minutes, they had the motor things come on to do a proper job.   Whenever the clock stops, they’ll play a few bars of some rousing rock tune (we will rock you), and tell you to ‘make a noise’ but the game itself was quiet – you could hear the crack of the putt against the hockey sticks.  (I think it’s called a putt).  At the start, some guy sang Star Spangled Banner (the Canucks were playing the San Jose Sharks), and then the Canadian equivalent which was fairly forgettable.  At least, I’ve forgotten what it was called, or what it sounded like.  Everyone cheered though afterwards. 

It was VERY rough. People being slammed into the walls, sticks being used as weapons.  At one point, it descended into an actual fight.  Or rather, 3 separate fights at the same time.  I began to see why there were 4 referees on the ice.  Players would be ‘sent off’ for 2 minutes for ‘an elbow’, or ‘roughing’, but 5 minutes was the penalty for ‘fighting’.  One player eventually got sent off for 10 minutes for ‘serious misconduct’ – I think because he was involved in his second fight...  It was really quite exciting. 

But it was also a real family experience – almost everyone was there with children, anything from babes in arms, to toddlers, to young teens. 

Oh, and they also did the ‘love cam’ where the camera would rest on a couple and they’d be expected to kiss.  Just like in the movies.  And mostly they did.  Made me smile.

I left after the 2nd period.  The Canucks were 1-2 down, with 20 odd shots, vs the Sharks 24 or so... I think since they were keeping score of the shots too, that it must matter in the event of a draw... But the jet lag was closing in, and I didn’t want to get caught in the crowds coming home. So, off I trundled, this time on the Sky Train – basically, the tube.  Cool name though.  And then, a short walk back to the hotel.  8pm on a Sunday night – most of the shops were just shutting up...

Bedtime.  Lousy wireless signal means this won’t get uploaded tonight, I’ll try in the morning when I have more patience, or maybe I’ll do it from reception.  (My room is at the top, in a far corner, so is probably the furthest away from the router as can be got).  Sleep tight.

 

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