Up into the Highlands of Guatemala on a little shuttle bus driven at break neck speed around mountain bends - India people you know the score - praying the driver keeps his eyes open. From the miradors (vistas) the terrain looked like furry green upside down egg boxes, so many mountains as far as the eye could see. The destination was Lanquin famous for its Caves and nearby Semuc Champey waterfalls a place so beautiful they are claiming it to be the 8th Wonder of the natural world. I settled in at El Retiro, a lodge with several dorms and private cabanas on grassy slopes down to the river. The place was so relaxing but it lives up to its local name 'Gringolandia'.
The tour to Semuc Champey started with sitting on a swing that went out into the river. When Elvis the tour guide shouted 'jump!' you had to plunge several metres into the fast flowing waters below. This was followed a a candle lit tour of the caves, scrambling down rock faces and up underground waterfalls with a candle in hand is no easy feat. We had to swim through dark pools and under tight overhangs with the candles aloft. I felt like Golum, slipping around in the dark and dank underground world. The caves were follwed by a tubing session which caused great hilarity when one person's innertube made a loud hissing sound and rapidly deflated half way down the river. The next challenge was to jump off a bridge 9 metres above the river. After refusing to do it several times I eventually decided to do it knowing that it would niggle at me if i didnt. I was shaking before and after and it felt like I was falling forever before I hit the water and was whisked away by the current. The all action day was topped off by a vigourous climb to the mirador and then relaxing in the stunningly blue aqua pools.