I made it to Guatemala having previously decided not to come because of horror stories regarding the gang crime and violent attacks on buses. So far so good, even travelled through Guatemala City which is big and dirty but looks quite interesting.
The first stop was Antigua, like Granada in Nicaragua, another gorgeous Spanish Colonial town surrounded by three volcanoes. It is lovely but full of tourists and you probably wouldnt know you were in Guatemala but for the women in traditonal brightly coloured dress gathering in the plaza. The people here are called Green Bellied because of the amount of avocadoes that grow in this area and there are stacks and stacks of them everywhere you go.
I went on a tour up Volcan Pacaya where you are supposed to be able to see lava flowing through the cracks in volcanic rock under your feet. The climb was hot and steep and we were followed by men and boys on horses shouting 'Taxi! Taxi!', I resisted, I needed a serious work out. Our trek was punctuated with great booms and cracks from above as the volcano belched more rings of black smoke. To our disappointments the lava was not visisble when we arrived at the top but it was so wierd to see the rock in great gloopy folds. The hollowness of the ground underfoot and the gusts of hot air rising through the cracks let us know that lava was not that far down and could rise at any minute. A fire was started and people toasted marshmallows which were woolfed down by the dogs which accompanied us, at any opportunity. The views and sunset alone were worth it for the sweat and toil.
