I don't think either of us were looking forward to the long journey planned for the 30th of October. It would take us first from Kanchunaburi to Bangkok then north through Thailand by train to arrive the next morning at the border town of Nong Khai, following which we would cross the border into Laos and to the capital Vientiane. In the end it wasn't that bad! Once we were dropped off at Bangkok Southern Terminal we had our first dose of taxi madness that would plague the rest of the day. Although they have big signs on the roof that say 'Meter Taxi' actually getting them to turn on the meter is hardwork! (Near on impossible). As soon as you mention the meter they pull a face and wave you away, or wind up the window. Still it ends up costing about half the price if you persevere. We ended up with about 7 hours to kill in Bangkok which was a bit of a trial with our big heavy backpacks in the midday sun. We went to Khao San Road, the travellers 'haven' in the city, which is really something else! It's stall after stall of hippy headbands and fake CDs, bangkok tshirts next to Irish pubs, vege spring roll stalls next to macdonalds. It's a world like no other. We were sweltering so resigned ourselves to paying through the nose for the privelege of an 'Air-Con Coffee Bar' as Gary has calls them then went in search of a highly recommended Vege Restaurant. It turned out to be a small makeshift type restaurant run by a sweet lady with really delicious Thai vege food all for less than 2 dollars for two people. Finally, we got bored and decided to go straight to Hua Lamphong Station and wait there, we sat on the floor reading for three hours.
At 8.15pm we boarded the train. It was better than we expected and quite cosy. The upper bunks were already made up but the lower ones were converted into two seats. We had an upper and a lower. We had been warned that the upper ones were extremely claustraphobic but Deena (who was assigned a topbunk for 'safety' reasons by Gary) found them to be quite spacious and with the curtains drawn we began calling the bunks our 'bedrooms' the had little reading lamps and everything. While we settled in the attendant went around converting all the lower bunks into beds while peddlars came round with drinks and snacks. And soon we were off... It's wonderful looking out the window on the train but this train began very slowly! And there wasn't much to see in the dead of night. So Deena settled down reading while Gary went to have a cigarette. After a while she began to wonder where he'd got to and he soon came back with the news that he'd made some Norwegian friends and was going to have a beer with them and he'd be back soon. Two and a half hours later, still no Gary! Deena could see the odd flash of Norwegian guy in the next carriage. Finally Gary crept sheepishly into his bunk and we all tried to get to sleep. But it was not to be! The air-con was definitely working well and were more of a curse than a blessing! We almost froze to death! Especially with only one very thin towel-cover as they use here.
The next morning Deena was very grumpy due to getting no sleep and this was not helped by the stares of the Thai ladies opposite and the hustle bustle of everyone waking up at the same time on a train! But after having a few green-tea custard bun she was revived and ready to face the next few bits of travel. Upon arrival at NongKhai train station we were isntantly whisked away in a tuktuk to the Thai-Lao friendship bridge to begin crossing the border and unfortunately didn't get to see a bit of Nong Khai! There were lots of forms to fill out but as far as applying for a visa and crossing a border goes it was ok. All the tourists were herded onto a bus to cross the bridge across the Mekong and deposited on the Lao side. Soon we were in another tuktuk making our way to Vientiane.
Often when you read and research a place you have an idea in your mind of what it would be like and then when you get there it's a shock. Vientiane was a pleasant suprise - its quiter and more laid back than expected, certainly a lot more tiny (more like a town than a capital city) and more modern than expected. As Gary wrote in his journal, it is like water about to boil, quite and still on the surface but bubbling away underneath. It's beautiful in a shabby-chique way and is more old worldy than anything in Thailand. It also feels safer and less agressive. You can walk from one side to the other in about 20 minutes. While we've been here we've spent a lot of time with our new Norwegian friends (Christian and Roody). Our guesthouse is a rambling old villa with old passageways and huge hallways that feels like something out of a mystery novel! Yesterday we went to the morning market and brought some more clothes as we were constantly running out (fake polo tshirt and a cheap sarong). We also did a walking tour of all the main temples, we didn't go in any of them but will do as we're coming back to Vientiane later on. The food here is less spicy and easier for Deena to find vege options - we went to a vege food buffet for 1.3 dollars a head and went to the 'best noodle place in Laos' which was like a converted garage with plastic tables... so cheap and so good! Yesterday we went bowling with the Norwegians! We felt quite strange bowling in Laos! And then we all had dinner, the boys tried stuffed frog and roast quail. Gary has so far declined on trying the deep fried crickets and grubs. Today we're relaxing and probably going to the National Museum before our trip to Vang Vieng tomorrow!
