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An evenings surf

IRELAND | Friday, 14 June 2013 | Views [397]

Keeping low and riding the wave out

Keeping low and riding the wave out

After a long days work and the charts looking tempting, a friend and myself set out for an evening surf.   We turn up at our local and its absolutely pumping and best of all we have the entire beach to ourselves, the pleasures of living in a remote part of our country.  After jumping fences from field to field like horses from the Grand National we scale the rugged rocks until we hit the fine grains of the sand beneath the cliffs.  A quick change into our wetsuits in a Clark Kent style motion we waste no time and swiftly grab our boards.


As we run down the beach we stop and gaze at what is presented before us.  5ft rights peeling out to heighten the anticipation. 


Luke takes off and is first to touch the water, shouting with excitement slowly followed by a shriek from the chill of the water rushing into his wetsuit.


2 hours pass and my muscles start to tire and stomach began to rumble, I decided my fun was over and began to make my way back towards the van for a change and a cup of tea.  Luke battles it out for another short period and joins me at the van for a cuppa.


Its quiet in the van now as our exhausted carcasses are unable to create conversation.  The sun is setting in the west and we decide to take a detour towards a ring fort close by to relax and watch mother nature hallucinate us with her beautiful show of colour. 

We sit back  in silence, listening to our surroundings with only a smile on our face knowing that we get to do it all over again tomorrow.

Tags: beach, clean coast, cliffs, donegal, ireland, sea, seaside, surfing, surfphotography, waves


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