Montevideo to the North, Gaucho country 16th Dec 2013 to 21st Dec 2013
Wow, well after a 5 hours bus ride on what has got to be the best luxury bus experience ever (UK busses pay attention!!) I arrived at the norther town of Tuacerembo, Uruguay on 16th Dec. This is goucho country (cowboys) and the small ‘city’ is surrounded by plains and rocky tops and more plains as far as you can see. Everyone owns horses and pick up trucks, everyone lives on or works for a ranch and it is so quiet as soon as you leave the city behind. I was collected by my host ‘Juan’ (what else would a Uruguayan be called???!!!) and driven about an hour away to his ranch which he owns with his Swiss wife. He has been a rancher all his life but 10/12 years ago Uruguay hit an economic crisis so they decided to open the ranch up to back packers and any tourist in an effort to of course make some cash but to open the north up to travellers who tend to stick to the southern coast line.
How glad am i that I came up here? Well, the ranch sits among 2400 acres of green plains, they farm sheep for wool and cows and have a few chickens knocking round. They have 84 horses to make the farm run. I walked into the downstairs of the old ranch house (which is all mine!) and it is perfect, room for 19 guests and at the moment I am the only one! So after 2 weeks of dorms and cities, the only noise I can hear at night are crickets and the odd distant cow and I'm eating steak and salad with free tea ….perfect!!!
I spent the week going along on all the day to day jobs of the farm with Juan and his gaucho mate. We herded cattle from one far flung field to another, we treated sores of calves, we sent cows flying into the water dip for tick treatment ready for sale at the market, I herded sheep, cut logs and helped feed a baby cow! All day is spent on horse back and it was brilliant! (I have to admit the professionals did the lions share of the work!!!) You only ride with one hand here (very John Wayne) and I basically observed and took part in the whole process of farming cattle and sheep in this traditional and effective way. The day begins at 8 till about half 12, then you have a rest till 3, then out again till 7. The food is home cooked and amazing (I actually had salad in this meat obsessed country) and meat of course and all kinds of amazingly yummy food.
All in all a complete highlight of my trip, everyone should come to Northern Uruguay and to this ranch ‘Panega’, so different to anywhere I have been and a great experience. I wouldn't say I am a professional cowboy (girl!) but I didn't mess anything up or get lost and I got a great chance to see a way of life completely different to my own (although the farm house was surprisingly reminiscent of my nan Biddle’s house minus the fly traps lol Dad!!!!)
Hope all ok at home, sorry to ramble but fantastic week. Now I am relaxing back in the beach town of Punta del Diablo, Uruguay and will be here for Christmas. More surfing, swimming and a horse ride or two over next few days. All have a lovely Christmas !!!! Miss you love you !!!! Biddle has survived the horses to swim another day!!!
