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Sabah Road Trip-Maliau Basin

MALAYSIA | Saturday, 29 May 2010 | Views [1266]


Hi All,

Long drive from Semporna to Maliau Basin. We made an early start and knew that it would be a long day to drive to Maliau Basin but hoped to arrive in time for a walk in the rainforest. Unfortunately our scenery was Oil palms as far as the eye could see for most of the journey. Not exactly wild Borneo. We drove to Tawau before following the sketchy signs towards the park. We filled up and I estimated that the car was getting 20km per lt and with a 30 lt tank should get about 600km under ideal conditions. This was important as the park was another 180km away and we didn't know where the nearest petrol station would was located. It looked like it was going to be an easy drive on good bitumen until the 80km mark and we reached a large roundabout. The rest of the journey was on a reasonable quality dirt road but was slow going and the palm plantations slowly gave way to rainforest after about 50km. The last fuel station we found was about 50km from Tawau. It took about 3hrs to reach the park gate and then we had to deal with their bureaucracy before heading the next 30km to the accommodation at the research centre. The couple of wasted days at the start of the trip were costly so we only had time for an overnight stay. Quite frustrating. I noticed that there were relatively fresh pygmy elephant droppings on the road and a large flying squirrel ran across our path before Vanessa spotted, what appeared to be a rhinoceros hornbill in the trees, as we drove along. The accommodation was very good but it felt more like a resort than staying in a wilderness area which annoyed me. Additionally the staff were not overly helpful in advising us about walks and we were told that we needed a guide. Not impressed. We found our room and dropped off our bags then went for a drive, found a nice creek about 10km away and went for a walk along it without a guide. I was a little concerned about the amount of fuel in the vehicle so we didn't venture too far but did find the river with a  swing bridge and an unlocked gate near the accommodation when we returned. We went for a walk along the river path and realised that we could have walked to the waterfall in the afternoon if we had been told about the path location. We went to the room and enjoyed the balcony watching fireflies for a while before heading out looking for wildlife from the car.Half expecting to find elephants so  I was a bit nervous about bumping into one along the  way as they seemed to have been using the road as a path but we only found a few bearded pigs. We returned and went for a walk with our torches and found a civet hunting near the road A what? Looks like a cross between a domestic cat and a ferret.Heard the rain coming and only just made it back to accommodation.

Day 7.
Got up early to spot wildlife and listened to the jungle waking up. Found a bearded pig but no other wildlife on the way. We head a whooping and popping call but were not sure whether it was a bird or monkey and found out days later that it was gibbons calling. The number of calls and volume increased dramatically as the dawn broke and despite that we could hear them call we couldn´t find them even though we knew that they had to bee relatively close by to our position We listened to a woodpecker hammering out a tune in the distance as we walked back to the accommodation block and packed the car to leave.

It is a little frustrated as we have not got enough time to stay and walk deep into jungle for a few days we would have needed a week in the rainforest to explore but not on this trip.Time running out too quickly.Maybe next time?

Bye for now

David and Vanessa

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