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Qinghai-Tibet Railway Journey

AUSTRALIA | Monday, 18 January 2010 | Views [923]

hello all,

Whilst the regular blog writer is otherwise occupied I shall offer my words of wisdom

We are aboard the Qinghai-Tibet Railway which  is the world's highest railway and one piece of impressive engineering .It has 160km of bridges and elevated track  much of which is built over permafrost some parts of which have cooling pipes inserted to help ensure that boggy ground stays frozen in Summer.Some 960 kilometres of its tracks between Golmud to Lhasa are  over 4,000 meters above sea level and the highest point is the Tanggula Pass, at 16,640 feet (just over 5,000m) above sea level.meters Due to  the lack of oxygen at this altitude, all passenger coaches have extra oxygen pumped into them and extra oxygen is also available to passengers through oxygen outlets if they experience  problems.The cabins are not pressurised so sealed bags are expanded to bursting point and bottles threaten to blow their tops. Soft sleeper berths come with individual TVs and oxygen sockets so life is relatively comfortable if you are willing to pay 3 times as much as a hard seat. We have 4063 km  and just over 47hrs to travel so our choice was easy. We have been fortunate enough to have the cabin to ourselves for over half the journey so we can´t complain.

 No one can predict who will be affected by altitude but this time David seems to have drawn the short straw and is experiencing mild high altitude sickness with headache,nausea ,stomach bloating thus flatulences,frequent urination and aero bar  poop (aerated in other words)have a painted a pretty picture doesn´t it just want to climb a high mountain pass .David who as I just mentioned is feeling the effects of the altitude has been forced to break the cardinal rule of high altitude acclimatisation by needing to frequent the squat toilet on the train whilst I seemingly  unaffected by the altitude other than a physically notable drop in blood pressure and increased back pain laze around like a 10 toed sloth moving only when absolutely necessary.

I was a little disappointed to find a squat toilet in the soft sleeper carriages as I had been misled by photographs that I had seen into believe that we would have a western toilet.Never mind both David and I ripped some new thigh muscle fibre whilst climbing the Great Wall the other day so the exercise would be good for them .We each have a different approach to dealing with squat toilets but that is not something that should be on  public record so I´ll just say that  we have learnt to carry copious quantities of toilet paper,hand sanitizer , to hyperventilate before entering the squat toilet  and the hold our respective breaths for a staggering amount of time whilst in for mentioned  squat.
Here is a mind BOGgling statistic for you.There are at least 1.2Billion people in China and if each defecates every day and purely for statistical purposes we say that ´it´ weighed 250grams that would be 300,000tonnes of faecal matter .Whilst you ponder that statistic lets not forget that we  haven´t include the millions of tourists that visit each year and get intestinal upsets.....as for the amounts of urine passed each and every day lets just say that there  is more than one  yellow river that flows  through China.

I hear you saying that you have had enough statistics for one reading but I think that you do protest to much and are enjoying pondering over these facts so I shall continue with the amount of phlegm that is expectorated each and every minute of everyday somewhere on a pavement in China  fortunately for you I do not have that statistic at hand but  shall say that even though the Chinese authorities are trying to educate the public about the health risks there still continues to be too much phlegm on the streets for my liking.

>From Beiing the train to Lhasa passes through endless farming villages and some extremely polluted and ugly cities. The scenery is good, but becomes quite monotonous, especially by the end of the second day. Beginning early on the third day the scenery drastically changes. The train is now on the northern Tibetan Plateau heading south from Golmud so the farmlands is replaced with  endless grasslands inhabited by  thousands of shaggy yaks, sheep,donkeys,ponies  Tibetan antelope and other wildlife. High snow-capped mountains surround both sides of the  train with all but the strongest flowing rivers ,lakes and streams being  frozen.The glare from the ice is so intense that we need to don our new genuine fake Emporio Armani sunglasses to look out the windows.   The train passed the 6178m/20,270 feet Mt. Yuzhu, the highest mountain in the eastern Kunlun Range. and luckily for us we have a perfect clear day so the view of the mountain is impressive.We have seen  the  black yak wool tents  of the nomadic tibetan and many many shepards both young and old dressed in traditional tibetian clothing tending to their free range yaks and sheep.No trees on the tibet plateau so when nature calls you just have to get down to business regardless of the passing train. or a curious yak.Heaps of piles of yak paddies piled up in preparation as fuel fundoudtedly for the family stove and heater A small number of pilgrims could be seen wandering along the highway  braving the frosty winds of winter on their way to who knows where holy site and an ever increasing number of pray flags  and  stupors as we travel further into the ´rooftop of the world


We are yet to see other foreign tourist aboard the train so everyone that passes our open door seems to feel compelled to take a good look at us this eventually grates on our nerves and we shut the door and announce ´shows over folks´ Despite the fact that will will have travelled over 4000km unlike in  Russia we have remained in the same  time zone meaning that the sun is rising at 845hrs and sunset is  well after 1990hrs


I don´t wish to monopolise  this  blog entry  so  my contribution is concluded and I  happily hand the responsibility back to the original   blog writer

Bye,

Vanessa and David

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