CHEF Monday 21 March
Hello. Bonjour. Hola. Salaam. It gets confusing to decide which I feel like using but I try to greet everyone I pass. Most people respond.
Everyone is calling me Ali Baba, because of the beard they say. I like it. You can call me that now.
Everyone says they have "the best hash" , at least everyone that offers it, which is about half the population of Chef.
I may have been mistaken when I said they were subtle yesterday, but maybe that's cause I'm making the effort to say hi. I've learned it's hard not to assume that everyone is offering hash, but if I live by that assumption I'm ignoring anyone that tries to talk to me. And I know that's a dick move. So I am now friends with Mohamads, Ottmans, Abduls, Mustaphas, and so on. Many similar names.
As of this morning I am getting the hang of the streets of Chef a little better. I did some online research today and this town was formed in the mid 15th century by Moors and Jews fleeing the whole inquisition business on the Iberian peninsula (Spain and Portugal)
The reason I did online research is because there are no official signs (and I can miss some things) that the Jews where here. The Jews began the tradition of painting the walls blue, which the populations since have continued. Although I have met people who speak Hebrew and some who are part Jewish, I have not seen or heard anything about a current Jewish culture here.
It's so easy to take amazing pictures here. Like point and click, you don't even have to look. I've stopped trying at this point. Mainly because I just want to seem less like a tourist. There are a lot of them here, although not as overwhelming as other places I've been. It is also a Monday during the "off season". Granted, they are getting less and less of an off season as the popularity of Chef has boomed in the last 15 years according to the locals I spoke with today.
Walked up to the Spanish mosque. They built it in the wrong direction so it doesn't get used. It's way up, 20 minutes up hill, more like up mountain, and has some more great views of the entire town. It's also the way to many of the hash farms, and there where multiple offers to visit them along the way and when I got to the top. While the thought of seeing a Moroccan ganja farm is tempting, it's one of those things I would only do under specific circumstances (say what you want, either way) and following a random dude on the path is just not one of those circumstances I'm whiling to do. I know they're not close to the mosque, so if nothing else I'm not looking to spend the whole day on that adventure.
It started pouring when I got to the top so it was a pretty wet walk down on slippery rocks. No falls, but I did get my pants pretty muddy.
After I got cleaned up I went for Lunch at a small place called bab sour. It was suggested by the hotel. While there I was seated with some people from Oakland. They are traveling Morocco with a guide. Their guide suggested this place. Then a Japanese man with a guide was seated next to me. His guide brought him here too. Now I'm excited. Lunch was so good. I got a dish called espinica, like spinach, but actually some other green herb plant done up like an Indian Saag that was tasty. Then a fava bean thick mush soup that was really good too. I saw that the guide got served one right after me and followed his style of adding olive oil, cumin, and salt. Then sopped it up with a whole grain bread. And finally my first real tagine, lamb and veggies, slow roasted and served in a clay pot, meat falling off the bone, potatoes and carrots turning to mush, so freakin tasty! (I tried some of someone else's shrimp tagine in Tangiers and it was really good too) Topped it off with some Moroccan mint tea. The whole meal with tip was 70 dirham. Like $7.15. Just crazy. And the owner speaks the usual 5 languages plus German, Portuguese, and Japanese!
After that I went and stopped by to visit "John" at "a" Hostal. (Names changed just in case) A friend of a new friend runs the hostel and I heard that there's lots of hash smoking going in there. So I went and introduced myself and in less than a minute I was rolling for the 2 of us. Eventually I asked to get some, knowing he would pinch a little off the top, but feeling like its my contribution to the local economy. On Moroccan time now. While "waiting for the man" I had the opportunity to just sit outside and watch and meet people.
This is more like blond hash, or really just pressed kief. Breaks into a fine powder. Tangier's was darker, and had stems in its contents, and was most likely cooked a little. "John" says Tangier buys Chef hash and then mixes it with crap weed.
Small town this is. Running into people I have met both locals and foreigners. Even saw some folks who were at the hostel with me in Tangier.
In the main square by the kasbah, which is the place I usually go to begin getting lost now, there are guys who stand in the walkway with menus like any tourist town, trying to draw you in for food or tea. When I decline they then ask if I need "the best hash" or anything else. I generally decline all of their offers. I have passed this one guy maybe 10 times in the last 24 hours, and he catches me every time. My responses at first where pretty bland "I'm all good". "I just ate" "I don't need hash". After a few more direct responses I felt OK with being a smart ass a few times "How can your hash be the best when Ottman told me his is the best". "No speakie English" and so on. Finally I told him it's not personal, I just don't eat places that have a hype man and higher prices than the places I have been eating in town. If I see him tomorrow I will ask him his name. He's a good sport.
Did I mention that there is a rooftop terrace at this hotel too?!?!? I love these. Gavin, if you're reading, when's the rooftop terrace gonna be done on your pad?
More people are randomly calling me Ali baba.
And lastly I'm not really sure how I'm gonna get to some of the places I am going. I may have to see if I can rent a car 1 way from fez to Marrakech. Oy vey!
Good night, pronounced "tis ba, allah hay" in Arabic.
