Tuesday is market day at San Miguel Totonicapán, a town at the end of the road in the mountains about 40 miles from Quetzaltenango. The market is packed with locals buying and selling locally made crafts: baskets pottery, leather goods and the colorful textiles for which the area is known. The women and some of the men wear traditional Mayan clothing or “traje indigena” and each village has its own distinct pattern. We were the only norte-americanos in town and we drew our share of stares. Few of the people came up to our shoulders and none were blonde.