Karibu (you are welcome). Rafiki (friend). Asante sana (thank you very much). Mambo (what's up). Jambo (hello). Poa! (I'm cool!) My Swahili voacbulary is slowly expanding ever since I entered the swahili-stronghold of Tansania :) But now to what has happened so far:
I stayed longer in Nkata bay than I had originally planned (5 days instead of 2..ups ;) ) But I've been told that this happens to most of the backpackers that stay there because the place is just incredibly friendly and hospitable (In additions to that people are in a constant party mood, which is always a pleasant change ;) )
Meri and I had planned to go diving Friday morning as the dives around Nkatabay are supposed to be the best of the entire lake. When we showed up at the diving school Rod, the divemaster, gave us a very detailed dive-briefing, explaining to us exactly where we would be diving, when we would be doing swim-throughs, which fish we were going to see (and around where we would expect to se them!), he explained all his special (not exactly PADDI-conform) dive-signals and then he told us to wait for someone to give us fitting equipment. When Rod returned he didn't look happy. He said he regretted deeply but that entire Nkatabay as well as all major cities in the region were out of gas and that he therefore could not take us out to dive.. What a bummer! I had been looking very much forward to see the mouthbreeders protectingly taking there young into their mouths.
There was however nothing much to do. Therefore we sucked it up, took our snorkeling equipment and went snorkeling in the bay. I stayed in the water for a very long time swimming down to the bottom and looking under rocks and into caves.. And then I saw a small school of very small fish swimming around panickingly. I couldn't believe my luck when I saz a much larger fish swimming towards the small fish and scooping all the fish into her mouth! I had seen what I had come for (in addition to many other things such as the upside-down fish, and the mating-ritual of the colourful ciclids) and in addition to that had saved alot of money :-)
This had to be celebrated, I meen it was Friday and Meri's birthday was the following day. So we bought a bottle of Malawi-Gin and some tonics and started celebrating. The backpackers had organised a delicous BBQ-buffet and had even backed a birthday cake for Meri. After the dinner we went to "Jam Rock" probably the most famous 24h bar in Nkatabay and decided to party til we could see the sunrise in the bay..
We didn't.
;-)
Still it was an amazing night out! we jammed and danced to the reggae-beats, met alot of incredible people (I even met some danish people. wupdidoo) and first came home 4.30-ish.
The day after we packed our stuff and headed for Chitemba further up north at the lakeside. The road first took us up the mountains to Mzuzu (biggest city in the area) and thereafter led down the mountains to the lakeside. At the side of the road baboons were waiting for the bus to pass. They knew that the people in the bus would open up all the windows and throw out the pieces of Cassava and bananas, which they had just bought from vendours at the previous stop. Even though I didn't really like the idea (baboons that get to accustomed to humans can become very aggressive and dangerous) I couldn't help to be amused, especially because the entire bus, which just moments before had been crammed in painful silence, lit up with delight and laughter!
The day after we decided to try and hitch a ride up the mountain to the Livingstonia mission. The road up there is horrendous and no public transport goes there. So we sat at the side of the road underneath an enormous mangotree and waited.
Luckily we didn't have to wait for long as 45 minutes later two trucks came down the mountain to pick up students of the technical school of Livingstonia. First they said that we couldn't go with them under any circumstances, but soon after Meri had a talk to the drivers, they changed their minds and said the students (of course) had first priority.
Meri was the lucky one. She even got a seet in the front of the car. I on the other hand was less lucky. I must have look very unconvinced because the driver said to me: "Ok soldier! Get up there!" How on earth am I going to get up there never mind the backpack, I remember thinking. The back of the truck was only about 2 square meters big, and this limited space was already filled with 14 students in addition to their luggage. I didn't really have a choice: this was probably the only ride going up there for the day. I put on my cap of "African Spirit" and climbed and crawled and pushed my way into the small space that was reserved for me. I was standing up, my backpack was on the roof of the truck.
As soon as the truck started driving I thought I was going to die! The road, which I knew was going to be bad, was even worse than I imagined. It was a very ill-maintained gravel-road that snaked its way through 29 horrific bends up the mountains. I felt like I was going to fall off the truck anytime! I didn't even have time to enjoy " probably the most scenic road in Southern Africa" as Meris guidebook had put it. At one point I had to sit down, which ment partially sitting ontop of to other people, who accepted it without any complaints. I think the people on the back of the truck that that I, the Msungu was very amusing, at least I could hear them talking and laughing about me.. I didn't really mind and made self-ironic jokes, which made them laugh even harder..
When we were up there I instantly knew that it was totally worth it. WHAT A VIEW! We stayed at a place, which motto was to be selfsustaining and biodynamic. This meant amongst other things: compost-toilets, reusing all water and growing all their own food (even the coffee was from their own garden). And man-oh-man the food was the best I have had so far!!!!
We visited the waterfalls and caves nearby that had been used by people to hide from the slavetraders and went to Livingstonia village to see the church and the "Stonehouse" that had belonged to the famous missionary Dr. Laws.
On the way back to the lodge I met Code. This is how the conversation went:
Code: Hello. How are you?
Chris: Good. Thank you. How are you?
Code: Fine. How are you?
Chris: (pausing)
Code: Where are you going?
Chris: Home. What about you?
Code: Macheve!
Chris: Is Macheve your home?
Code: (Confused) Macheve!
Chris: Is Macheve your HOME?
Code: Yes!
Code: Are you my friend?
Chris: Yes. Thank you! Are you my friend Code?
Code: Yes (smiling).
This kid was just amazing even though we had some communication-difficulties in the beginning. After that he showed me his home and waved goodbye!
Many kids in this area would come and talk to you but often the conversation would take a different turn more like. Hello. How are you? Fine how are you? Yes! Give me bottle, money, water, balloon etc!
The last day of Meri and me travelling together (by now we were in Chitimba again) we went to the local pub (as the place we were staying was pretty empty). We tried the local maizebeer "Napolo International Beer". This beer can have everything between 1% and 6% depending on how long it had been standing in the bar. On the pack there was a slogan "Masese!", which meens tastes as it looks: and one thing was for sure: the slogan didn't lie! ;-)
And since then I have been travelling alone again. First to Mbeya and now I'm in Dar es Salaam.
In Mbeya I met Ali, who approached my while I was looking for the right place to buy the busticket to Dar es Salaam. After he helped me I invited him for a Coke and he aske me whether I like to cook. When I said yes, he suggested that we could go to the market together and buy the ingredients and then prepare the food at his home for his family, as a souvenir. I deemed him to be trustworthy so I agreed to it. The food we prepared (very Gumbo-like vegetarian food) was delicious and it was a wonerful experience. We washed our hands before eating and then took the ugali (corn staple) with the right hand, formed a ball, squished it to a spoon-like structure, used this structure to scoop up the gumbo and ate :-) Afterwards I was invited inside to watch TV in the livingroom.
The day after (yesterday) I took the bus to Dar es Salaam. 12 hours. Luckily I had a good book to read and the landscape was never boring. At one point we drove through the Mikumi national park and I saw impalas, giraffes and zebras.. pretty cool! Every once in a while I saw the Massai driving their cattle. I have finally arrived in East Africa!
Dar es Salaam is an exotic city. It is sweatdrippinly hot and very multicultural. This morning I went for a walk and heard te moezzin inviting the faithful to the morning-prayer. This sound mixed with the sound of churchbells and choirs singing. The streets are narrow and filled with indian spiceshops and arabic traders. The life of people seems to be taking place in the streets. There is a big contrast between the modern skyscrapers and the old collapsing buildings that remind of the past. Even though Dar is completely different to what I imagined I still enjoy the vibe of the city!
Next I'll probably head to Zanzibar and afterwards (if I ever want to leave again) I'll make my way to climb Africa's highest summit (I hope :) )
