This is the first time in the past that I have been able to get into an Internet-cafe that is how off the beaten track I have been on my journey so far. I have already had some incredible experiences and met amazing people that I have been longing to talk about so now and without further ado: The update! ;-) (I just hope the power doesn't go out again (as it did before!) :-))
In the last post i wrote that I would be traveling alone. Funny thing is: Ever since I started "traveling alone" I have not been alone for a single moment. On the second day of my travel, taking the train from Nampula to Cuamba in Mocambique (a journey that took 12 hours and let through one panorama landscape to the next - incredible train-ride!) I met Meri, a girl from Finland who has been traveling in Africa for 2 months already and has another 10 months to go (talk about setting my 5 months into perspective ;) )
When we arrived in Cuamba there was no chappa leaving for Mandimba (the border to Malawi) so I took the chappa to Lichinga instead and was told that I would be able to get off at Mandimba as well! When the chappa finally took off (2 hours of waiting in a very crowded minibus) the driver said that I of course would have to pay the full amount to Lichinga even though I got off earlier. I took this as a sign that I should go to Lichinga instead. So I asked Meri if it was OK that we became travel-buddies for a while (which it was)and since then we have been travelling together.
The first place we went (after a night in Lichinga) was Metangula, a quite big village on the Mozambican side of the Malawi-lake. It was interesting because we were the only tourists in the entire village. Still people were very welcoming and extremely friendly always making sure to ask how you are, where you are from, where you are going next. I was overwhelmed with the beauty of the lake. (almost) Everything about it is just like an ocean. The horizon, the waves, the sand, the colourful fish in the clear water. Just one thing is different: the air around it does not have the characteristic smell of salt. (Which is logical, as the lake is a freshwater lake ;-).
The next day we wanted to go to another village at the lake called Cobue. We woke up very early (people had told us that the chappas to Cobue leave at 5 or 6 in the morning), but we soon found out that there was no public transport going to Cobue. The only car that drove to Cobue was an open truck. Therefore we spent 6 hours in the sun on the back of an open truck " waiting for passengers". It didn't feel like six hours, though, as the village was bustling with life and all the time something was happening or someone came and talked to you! All of the sudden we took off and the scenery on this stretch was otherworldly! It led through forest-covered mountains and every once in a while you could catch a glimpse of the lake. When the sun started setting (It took 5 hours to drive the 100km between the two villages.) The scenery became even more fantastic.
Cobue was a lot smaller than Metangula and again we were the only tourists. We went to watch the local soccer match (between Cobues team and the surrounding villages team) and ended up becoming the main attraction of the event. We were surrounded by children and somebody explained to us that they were saying that they didn't come to watch the football match but to look at the Msungus (the Chichewa/Swahili word for white person). We took a lot of pictures and the children enjoyed seeing themselves in the camera. In the end of the match Team Cobue won and the entire village ran onto the field to celebrate their team.. :-)
In Cobue I also met my parents when they came back from their stay at Nikvichi-lodge. I was very happy to see them again (especially because I had already said goodbye to them!). We enjoyed a good! cup of coffee and my food supplies were filled up again before they had to head back to Maputo.
The same day we took the Dhau (small sailing boat) to Likoma Island, which is situated just in front of Cobue but belongs to Malawi, due to the Missionary efforts by the British during the colonial era.
Likoma Island is very peaceful and if there is one thing you are able to do on this Island it is relaxing..
The days went by quickly. I went snorkeling in the clear water, went hiking into the village to see the Cathedral and the market, I even went to visit the famous witchdoctor Dr. William Kumpalotta.
The doctor gave me a Juju (magic or charm) for good luck and to prevent thievery and robbery. Apparently when I'm wearing the Juju, bad people will change their minds!! Not a bad protection I think :-)
One night there was a bright red snake in the dormitory.. at first I thought it was a wire of some sort and almost grabbed it. Good thing I didn't.. I showed the pictures to the managers of the place and they said it was a poisonous.. We never got it out of the room, as it slithered into the bamboo-reeds of the wall. I comforted myself thinking it is too cold at night at the lake for the snake to be able to move ;-)
On Likoma Island I also learned to play Bao, probably the national game of Malawi and widespread in Eastern Africa. It is a lot of fun, especially because everyone knows it and you can play it anywhere. On my last day on Likoma I even bet my teacher Dan, which was a very special moment ;-)
Yesterday I took the Ihlala ferry across the lake to Nkata bay. Getting into the ferry I had to wade to a small transfer boat (backpack strapped to my back, holding my shoes in the one hand an the cellphone in the other..)
The boat was certified for carrying 22 people. We were, as far as I could count 33 people plus an uncountable number of bags filled with dried fish, corn and cassava.
As soon as we were on the boat the ride was very enjoyable. We slept on the top-deck under the stars while the boat slowly cruised to Nkata bay.
Getting off the boat was even worse than getting on. I had to hand my backpack down the side of the ferry in order to climb over bags of dried fish, pushing and getting pushed in a very small space (Good thing I'm not claustrophobic!). Then on top of it all a man blocking the entrance wanted to see my ticket.. which was of course in the backpack outside.. after a small discussion we agreed that I could go to my backpack and show him afterwords and everything was fine!
Nkata bay is lovely and refreshingly lively in comparison to the rather slow paced Likoma Island. There is music playing, lots of people on the street, loads of bars and restaurants! The bay is (once again) beautiful and water crystal-clear!)
One thing I especially like about Malawi is the Malawians! Seldom have I met such friendly and helpful people. They enjoy talking a lot and are very interested in who you are, what you are doing. I get some extra credit when I tell people I am Danish. Everyone knows Denmark here as Carlsberg has a factory near Blantyre ;-) Yesterday somebody told me: Oh thank you Denmark for bringing Danish water to Malawi.. I like Danish water ;)
I don't really know what my plans are next.. I want to go to Livingstonia and then to Tanzania.. this means that in a couple of days Meri and my paths will split (she is going to Zambia, Botswana, Nambibia). But I will just see what happens and that will be what I do :)
