The Sahara could’ve been in New South Wales
Bushwalking off the Mallacoota inlet
A hailstorm of needles attacks my tired shins as I brace against the unrelenting wind and torrential rain. The impending storm is stirring the sand dunes around me into an angry wave of sand bullets. Shielding my eyes from rapidly flying sand particles I hastily clamber over the crest of a sand dune toward my destination, a makeshift campsite along the coast of Croajingolong national park.
The sand dunes are a little known feature of the park. A vast expense of sand and dessert stretches for miles inland, beginning from the coastline. Hours into the walk I forget that I am actually along the border of Victoria and New South Wales, Australia. An occasional plant or seashell dots the landscape, and nothing breaks the horizon for miles. The unrelenting sun shows no quarter as we continue day two of our trek into the Nadgee wilderness.
We began our adventure a day before trudging barefoot along the coastline, following a pleasant (largely so because of our very enthusiastic, chatty boatman) ferry ride from the town of Mallacoota. Waves cascade onto a beachhead that appears unending. Aside from the six of us from the University of Melbourne Mountaineering Club (MUMC), the unspoiled landscape is void of people and the usual raucous annoyances that come with touristy locations like Phuket, Thailand or Kuta, Bali. Here the full beauty and depth of nature can be observed without the slightest hint of disturbance. There is a feeling of serenity and inner-peace that is aroused within me as I feel the sand beneath me, listen to the sound of a boundless ocean, and take in the immensity of the place. We walk along the coastline for hours, and with time seemingly at a standstill your troubles suddenly don’t seem to matter very much anymore. A quiet or tranquil musical track is recommended at points during the long walk to keep it colorful. I would highly suggest listening to bands like Broken Social Scene or Deathcab for Cutie for a stress demolishing, unwinding experience. The walk ends at Lake Barracoota where we make camp, pitching our tents by the water and seating ourselves in the sand to prepare dinner. Before this we head eagerly into the lake for a swim and a refreshing spate of cold water. The view of surrounding mountains on one side, and sand dunes on the other is almost surreal from my vantage point in the middle of the lake. Delving into my cup of hot cocoa after the dip I am again taken in by the quietness of the place, of how the services of my watch are no longer required.
On day three we overlook a plummeting drop against giant slabs of primordial rock, shaped through thousands of years of tectonic plate shift. Waves collide into the base of these ancient, naturally shaped structures hundreds of feet below. The group pauses to take in the enormity of the massive rock formations and soaring height before grabbing a quick group photo and continuing on. We have found our way to a lookout point after setting off from our prior campsite by the coastline. Stargazers there are rewarded after a long day’s trek with an almost unblemished night sky, with the major constellations, Southern Cross and (keep your eyes pealed) occasional shooting star. We continue our trek through an estimated 7km of bush and mountainous terrain. Garters and long pants would be useful accessories here, protection from the masses of thorny plants and more rough-edged flora that abound in such topography. There are plenty of great scenic spots to be enjoyed along the way, and it is worthwhile to stop periodically to take in the excellent views of surrounding mountains and forest. Expect areas of forest and dense foliage along the way. Here deadwood litters the forest floor and occasional shafts of sunlight pierce the canopy tops to lend a mysterious feel reminiscent of the Forbidden Forest in the Harry Potter books.
Croajingolong is a diverse geographical location of dessert, jungle, and bush, with the “Visit Melbourne” website stating that an estimated 100km of coast and hinterland is host to more than 1000 native plants, and 300 bird species. As a United Nations Educational, Scientific and Cultural Organization (UNESCO) World Biosphere Reserve, there is plenty of biodiversity and scenic indulgence to be had at Croajingolong, providing plenty of side routes and tracks to enliven an explorer’s experience.
