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From the window of the bus

Under the sun, beneath the waves.

HONDURAS | Wednesday, 25 April 2012 | Views [420]

I have fallen more deeply in love with the ocean since I arrived in the Bay Islands of Honduras. The Mesoamerican reef- which stretches along the Caribbean coast 102 miles from Belize- is the second largest reef system in the world and home to an amazing range of life.

Learning to scuba dive in 2009 is one of the best things I have ever done. A serene new world opened up to me, the complexity and delicacy of the coral reaffirming the respect I'd always had for  reefs and the abundance of symbiotic life they have sustained over millions of years. 

The ocean has always been a part of who I am, I have memories of growing up next to the roaring, violent and beautiful Atlantic on England's south coast, walking along the harbour walls on weekends with my family. In winter, the waves would crash against the wave- breaks, sending salty spray over our heads as we squealed with delight. I heard that some unlucky people even got swept away with the power of those waves.

But I had only ever experienced the oceans beauty from the surface, gazing out from the beach beneath the imposing 60ft sandstone cliffs known as Britain's Jurassic coast. Scuba diving in the cold Atlantic waters was something only the impassioned would try and so, when a move to the Honduran Caribbean allowed me the opportunity to take scuba lessons in warmer waters, I began a new experience under the waves.

Eventually I became a professional scuba diver and the ocean became my world, my days spent under the sun beneath the sea, tranquil, peaceful and serene, calming my soul and those of others who endeavoured down the same path. My new passion encouraged me to learn the names of over 60 of the Caribbean reef species I would see on my dives, my nose pressed into the fish identification book on my return to shore.

Swimming with a Whaleshark is without doubt one of the highlights of my life. I have had the privilege of swimming alongside them perhaps five or six times, the grace, size and incredible pattern of stars across their backs the epitome of nature’s beauty.

I learned a lot about the Whaleshark during my time in the Bay Islands. For example, we knew that the way to spot them would be to watch the horizon from the boat for a tuna boil- a feeding frenzy of tuna eating baitfish. It was suspected that the Whaleshark would feel the vibrations of the tuna jumping across the water’s surface and translate it as a signal that food was present. They would then swim to the boil, right to the middle and turn their huge bodies vertical, pushing their lips through the water’s surface as they filtered algae and krill.

Strict protocol was adhered to at all times when swimming with the sharks and all of the Bay Islanders respected this. The boats would idle slowly, quietly up to the tuna boil and we would wait….wait….wait. Then, look! The Whalesharks lips would poke through the water’s surface and at command from the boats captain we would slip into the water to observe the shark as it fed, always staying at a distance of at least four metres, gasping with amazement into our snorkels, eyes popping at the incredible beauty of this huge fish.

Often, the shark would be disturbed and it would slowly swim away, perhaps a little bored of its admirers. But on some lucky occasions, it would stay and feed and we would observe this massive and gentle giant as it calmly and quietly ate its breakfast.

It has been about a year now since my last encounter. I hope that I will be lucky enough to swim with a Whaleshark again one day. Their lives are a mystery that scientists are still trying to understand! But if I don’t see one again, the special privilege of sharing several moments of its life, when most people dream of just one encounter, is one I will cherish forever.    

Tags: honduras, scuba diving, the bay islands, whalesharks

About centralamericantales

As many have before me, I sat in awe, looking down at the temples of Tical, a monumental city who housed some of the very first astonomers of the human species. The precison of the architecture, so that at some points the clapping of the hands mimiked the sound of the Quetzal, Guatemala's national bird, was quite frankly breathtaking.

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