Day 1 - Monday 3 December
We knew that it will not be easy, but we decided that we will give it our best shot. Our first big problem is the language - no big surprise. We have done a short audio spanish course during the last weeks before we left home, and it really helped, I know the Days of the week, I can count (slowly) and I can ask politely for a chocholate ice cream. All of wich doesnt really impress any bike dealer or customs official. But we were going to try anyway.
Henk did some preparation while we were in Brazil, and he sent e-mails to a few (about 20) Honda dealers in Argentina asking them if they have in stock the XR250 Tornado´s and if they can help with the registration of a "moto" in the name of a non-Argentinean citizen, and also with the documentation required for cross border travel to Chile, Peru, Bolivia .. The email was done in English, with the assumption that if a dealer replies, he is willing to deal with idiot travelers who cannot speak Spanish.
So our plan for Monday was to start visiting the Honda dealers who replied on Henk's email. The dealer closest to our hostel was in Ramos Meijer. (that is more or less like if you stay in Hilbrow and you need to see someone in Benoni) We took the ´fast train´, with some walking. We were only about two blocks away from the Reggio's Motos when we heard gun shots, and a guy running out of a bank and getting into a slow moving vehicle! We are quite used to the idea of crime, but we were a bit shaken as it is the first time we witnessed a bank robbery. At Reggios we realised: If someone replies on your english email, it doesnt mean they speak English, only that they are prepared to go to the trouble of finding some one who can.
With some difficulty, signlanguage, a friendly interpreter and lots of patience from all involved - we realised that it will not be as easy as the various friendly sales persons indiciated in their emails. Senor Reggio didnt seem interested anymore when he realised that we are not prepared to actually purchase the bikes unless he can do the registration and border docs for us.
Back to www to do more homework, we found the website of Dakar Motos the owner Javier, seem to be a legend in South America, helping adventure bikers with equipment and all kinds of problems.
Day 2 - Tuesday 4 December
Dakarmotos is not in the City (capital federal) of BsAs, but the taxi ride to Vincente Lopez was a good way to see just normal people living in normal houses. At Dakarmotos we met Daniel(German) and another biker from the UK, who were staying with Javier while they prepare for their next biking adventures. We learned a lot from them and it was great to be understood again. Daniel also warned us that he doesnt think its possible to take an Argentinian registered bike across the borders during the first year of ownership. When Javier arrived, he unfortunately confirmed this and explained to us that to register the bike in our names will not be difficult, but we will only be able to travel in Argentina and not even be able to go to Uhsuaia, as you have to cross into Chile to get there. It seem that Argentino´s get a permit to take their possesions (including their vehicles), across the borders within South America, but non residents cannot get that permit, and the officials at the borderposts will not allow an Argentinian registered bike to cross without that permit. We took a train back to the city, we had to decide if it is still worth it, we really wanted to go to Chile as well.
Day 3 - Wednesday 5 December
We decided to try one more avenue, to do a proper export of the bikes and not bring them back to BsAs to be sold before we left for home. On the www we found the AFIP (Aduanas) headoffice address, this time walking distance from our hostel. After a few brave but unsuccessfull atempts to engage an official in English conversation, we were lucky and a friendly office worker helped us, going with us to the correct department and introduced us to a girl he knows (I think he liked her) that could help us in English. My compliments to BsAs AFIP personell, they were great and later we had about six officials (only one to translate it all to us) who were trying to find a way to help us. The export duty of 5% was not the problem, but only a registered export company is allowed to export vehicles - sorry. Even they seemed upset that legally we cannot do our bike trip as planned.
From what we understand of the system is: Bottom line - legally no way. If you had lots of time, and prepared to take a few risks, you could try one of these:
1)Get a Argentino amigo at the borderpost to drive your bike with you as a passenger - Sjoe, ek weet darem nie of dit so maklik gaan wees om in spaans vir ´n betroubare vreemdeling te vra of hy kan bike ry nie
2)Rent an apartment in BsAs for a few weeks and apply for your permit to take your possesions accross the borders - Sjoe dit gaan lank wees voor my Spaans enige iemand gaan laat dink ek is ´n Argentino.
3)Try your luck at a couple of borderposts, you might find an offical prepared to let you pass - Sjoe dit kan ´n lang vakansie raak.
4)Buy your bike in either Brazil or Chile, although it might take a few weeks, we think that they might issue us the necnesarry docs to take the bikes out - Sjoe dit kan ´n lang vakansie raak.
5)Get copies of bike registration certificates from home, with some electronic adjustments and a set of number plates from home, you might pass the bikes as not Argentinean, if you can find a copy of a tempory import document too - Sjoe dit kan ´n baie lang verblyf agter tralies raak.
Day 4 - Thursday 6 December
We decided to rather rent a car and still include Chile, than buying the bikes and only staying in Argentina. After a ´no ways´at Avis, we had great service from Hertz. We could get our Corsa on Saturday, and they will have our border documents ready for us at Rio Gallegos (on our way to Uhsuaia) by the next Friday.
So that is how our cycling holiday was nearly upgraded to a biking holiday and then eventually down (or up) graded to a vehicle road trip!
It´s now Friday 14 December, our permit will be ready at 16h00, we were ready at 09h00, and that is why I have so much time to write such a long story. cheers,ada.
