Fatephur Sikri (City of Victory) is the crowning architectural legacy of the great Emporer Akhbar. Built in the late half of the 16th century and capital of the Mughal Empire for less than two decades, this majestic city is strategically sited in a commanding position overlooking the dusty plains on the edge of Rajasthan.
Fatephur Sikri (40km west of Agra) built in local red sand stone is a fusion of Islamic and Hindu styles, an intricate complex of palaces, halls, formal courtyards, harems, tombs, markets, temples, baolis and one of the largest mosques in India - the exquisite Jama Masjid. Many buildings are ruins in various states of decay, some have miraculously survived the test and sands of time, others lovingly restored by the Archaeological Surveyof India (ASI). As the dust swirls and sun sets, the heat comes of the day and the city skyline is silhouted against the soon to be dark sky... the scene exudes an atmosphere that I cannot adequatley evoke with mere words. I can only think of one word: magical.
Many years ago I sat on the top tier of Akhbar's Palace and watched a dust storm encroach across the vast plains soon to engulf all in its wake. And in the granduer of the 1920's ASI building situated on the edge of the ruins you could wash off the grime of your days archaeological exploration in a bath 'drawn' from an ancient well. The sounds of night owls punctuating the night air.
The magnificence of the ruins remain and as you comb the labyrinth of buildings and the maze of paths it is easy to imagine being transported to another time. A time of Court rulers, harems and palace intrigues or of the great Emporer himself playing Ludo on a giant board using slave girls as his counters... that is until the next kid tries to persistently sell you a postcard!
Talking to the trinket sellers (mainly muslim children) of Fatephur Sikri revealed not only some interesting details of their everyday lives but more realities of the Indian schooling system. The same woeful tales of teacher absenteeism, corporal punishment (that witnesses children not attending school for fear of a 'thrashing'), alcoholic and card playing tendencies abound. A particularly bright boy, eight year old Ali explained how he left school because he kept getting beaten up his teacher, others claimed their parents couldn't afford the fee the teacher was trying to extort for them to actually sit in the classroom. One thing that I did ascertain as I watched them do financial transactions with tourists - they had been taught maths quite well!
However, I digress so I will take your mind back to the architectural master piece of the Jama Masjid and the intricately designed white marble tomb of Shaikh Salim Chisti. Rumour has it that Emporer Akhbar had no male heir and after a pilgrimage to Saint Chisti the birth of a son was foretold - some people claim this prophecy witnessed Akhbar transferring his capital. To this day couples come to Chisti's tomb to seek the blessing of fertility.
Fatephur Sikri was the capital of the Mughal Empire for less than two decades. There seems to be two theories on the abandonment of the city: some archaeological literature (including ASI inscriptions at the site) state that Akhbar moved his base to Agra for strategic purposes while other sources cite a chronic lack of water.
Today the modern towns of Fatephur and Sikri spread there tentacles around the ruins, a thriving microcosm of the plains of India. A heady mix of Hindu and Muslim, roaming pigs, cows, dogs, dust, litter, open drains and many wonderful friendly smiles abound. As does the inquisitive nature of the locals for all things foreign....
Bonnie
PEAK
