More Time than Money

Hey all
   It seems that the internet connection or Mr Iranian Govt censor didnt take to my online journal to kindly so back to emailing it is!

Been in Tehran since yesterday, it looms like that the crappy weather has followed me from Istanbul to a degree, though its clearing up here at least!

First of all, the train, ferry and train again ride from Istanbul. All in all it took 3 days, though that in itself was quite an adventure and intersting. One pointer though to prosective travellers: Given the choice between an a)Turkish Train b)Australian train or c)Iranian train take c)!!

Anyway, the Turkish train that I took to Lake Van (between Dogubayazit and its crazy chickens and the Iraqi border) was rather optimistcally called the Trans-Asya Ekspresi which all of that optimism placed on the latter of the title! The train had a top speed of about 50km/h (when it wasnt sitting idle, or rolling backwards down the side of a mountain [yes, that did happen!]), we (me and two other backpackers) decided to christen the locomotive Old Betsy. Besides us, there was one Iranian in our cabin, a student the same age as me who had to go to Istanbul just to sit an exam (the exam was American-based, and with the whole US embargo thingy!) He gave much light as tothe current social situation in Iran, and their views about theur government and views on the West (which is not usrpirsingly vastly different from what John Laws would like you to believe).

Despite much fun and frivolity in our cabin, the Turkish train staff seem to be the most glum and cantakerous creatures ever to grace the earth. They spent most of their time chasing us and a group of Iranian kids we were playing cards with out of the communal area. We couldnt think of any card game which would be easy enough to explain, then we came up with the idea of teaching them this drinking game we were playing in Istanbul that uses a deck of cards (with some obvious modifications!). It also involved players to make animal sounds .... it seems that Iranian ducks go hup-hup-hup and their snakes go fizz-fizz-fizz!

As the train seemed to be in the habit of stopping in the middle of nowhere for a couple of hours (we assumed that Old Betsy didnt quite have it in her to do the journey flat out)  there was plenty a oppurtunity to have snowball fights .... though me thinks the staff didnt like our idea of throwing the snowballs through the cabins door to door!  The last day of the journey was the most excruciating ... the train at one stage stopped for 3 hours .... then started going forwards again ... for 20 metres! Then another 2 hr stop before reversing another 100m!

However, the Iranian train officials were as freindly as the Turkish ones were grumpy and the time spent on that train to Tehran was a pleasure! A few oddities about the train though. It seems that the cook in the kitchen hasnt learnt how to cook anything more than rice and chicken (and if you were lucky you might even get some barberries in your rice) which got a bit repetitive after a day, and also Iranian trains seem to emit copious amounts of steam from between the carriages which makes it look like your descending from the clouds or something as you walk through it! The Iranian train was alos somewhat faster than Old Betsy, though the concept of slowing down for corners didnt seem to be fully grasped so the train would kinda nervously teeter and rattle side to side as the train wobbled its way round sharp bends!

The first thing we had to do before getting to the border though was to put to good use our bottle of wine .... in a 'last supper' style, we somberly drank our last drop for a while!

Ive gotta say that considering Im a dual national of 2 countries that both label Iran part of the "axis of evil" I got accross the border with remarkable ease. No bag searches, no questions, we didnt even have to get out of our beds actually! The train staff took our passports to get them stamped in the border office on our behalf! It was interesting seeing the change in demeanour of people as we crossed the border, especially from women. Hejab on, and of coruse much less interaction. Our Iranian friend in our carriage was saying that it wasnt even really permissible for young men and women to walk together down on the streets. As mentioned before, you defintiely get the sense of discontent to the system here ... and with about three-quarters of the population aged 25 or under, you cant help but think that even without Western meddlings that the system would slowly change. Indeed, people tell you that it already has changed a bit from the days of just after the revolution (1979).

Here in tehran today, ive spent the day wonderign round the bazaar, visitng the National Jewellery museum, and avoiding getting run over by Tehrani motorists. It seems the norm here to ride your motorbike down the footpaths, as is reversing down a one-way street ... the wrong way naturally! Even having some experience of driving Asia style, Ive had a few near misses, in what can be best described as a game of high-stake dodgems!

Changing money here was funny, in return for my one USD 100 note, I got no less than 93 Iranian ones in return .... it seems that to buy anything of value here youll need a wheelbarrow to cart the money in. (Credit cards, debit cards and the rest dont work here obviously due to the US trade embargo). The National Jewellery Museum has an entrance not disimilar to that of the opening credits to Get Smart but inside you see why. It is truly stunning inside with the most immense and emaculate pieces of jewellery everywhere .... it is impossible to even think how much it all could be valued at! Its a pity that you cant (quite understandable as well) take photos there.

In the Tehran Metro System you definitely see which sex is the gentler sex. The first carriage for all trains is women-only and the rest for men. Whilst the women wait for ppl to exit the train and then board on later themselves, been on the mens sdie, you realise why wrestling is a big sport in Iran. Its a real test of strengh just to get on or off! A pair of boxing gloves seems appropiate attire down there!

Anyway, I best be off now ... going to get some dinner... food here is actually really nice! Hope alls well in Oz, having a (very cheap) ball here in Iran! Off skiing in a few days!