February 15, 2009 by
Harry,
8 February 2009: Pacific Grove (Monterey) – Gorda. 45 + 60km…
After saying goodbye to Diego, we headed back down the ‘17 Mile
Drive’ and ended up in Carmel by the Sea, a nice small town, with much
better looking houses than the ‘Drive’. We spent some time exploring
the old Mission, one of many that were placed here along the coast.
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We had some lunch in the windy Point Lobos reserve. We had been told that this was one of most beautiful points along the coast, but for us it was ‘average’. I guess we have been spoilt rotten the past months 
Further South it was more interesting as we entered the Big Sur
area. Unfortunately with the rougher coastline, came also more hills..
At least the coves and canyons were bridged here (as opposed to
Northern California, where you just go all the way down and then back up again, my knee says thanks..).
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Just after crossing a large bridge the road steepened up and did not
stop for as far as we could see, so we started to push at least 100m
up. Just when I reached the top of the hill, I approached a parked car,
where a young man had been enjoying the views from the top.
‘Hi there. I am Eric. Do you need a ride?’
Hmm. We just pushed up this hill, so there should be a nice downhill
ahead. Still, Ivana was on her way up, it would be dark in 20 minutes
and Big Sur village was still 9km away, so we would probably be cycling
in the dark. Also my knee had enough of the climbing.
As the road had barely any shoulder, but plenty of steep drop-offs,
we accepted Eric’s proposal and put ourselves and our bikes in the back
of his truck.
We told him to stop in Big Sur, but while we were expecting a larger
village where we could ask for a place to camp, we passed some motels
and before we realized it, we had passed Big Sur. Eric said he would
continue South and asked if we wanted to join further. I checked the
altitude profiles of the next section and saw 4 hills of 300m (1000ft)
each with more in between. Ouch.
I was afraid that my knee would not survive. So far we had taken only one ride and that had been for going back on a stretch we had already cycled.
We had skipped the major ferries, but now it felt unavoidable. I could
be stubborn and cycle but maybe that would mean the end of the trip,
just 50km ahead…
We stayed on the truck…
We ended up in a small village –just a roadhouse- called Gorda
(‘fat’ in Spanish!) Eric was taking a room in the motel and after
asking around we found a place to camp opposite the road on a nice
grassy patch in a small forest. Eric, who is a musician on his way from the East coast to LA,
came over for dinner and played and sang some songs for us while we
were making pasta in the dark. It was great & ‘gezellig’, but
suddenly the rain washed our party away and we went back into our tent
while the skies opened up all valves.
9 February 2009: South of Gorda – San Luis Obispo, 100km
Still we managed to stay dry and the next morning we joined Eric for
another small ride over the last hill and then said goodbye.
Fortunately the rain decided to stop, while we were organising our
bikes.
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We stopped at a roadhouse for our peanut butter sandwiches and talked with Victor Antonio, who was walking around the US to promote peace through marijuana.
Not only the sun came out, but it brought its good friend the wind as well which pushed nicely in our back on our way South.
We passed more and more beaches filled with hundreds of elephant seals, some relaxing on the grass and sand, far from the ocean.
We also passed Hearst Castle, made famous in the movie ‘Citizen Kane’.
Though some of the rocks where interestingly white, we actually saw some fresh snow in the hills as well, a rarity in this area.
Thanks to the wind, we were making good speed and we decided to go
all the way to San Luis Obispo. We arrived just before sunset after
100km of cycling and were welcomed by WarmShowers Hosts and fellow biketravellers Matt & Rita, who cooked up a great vegetarian Chilli.
10/11 February 2009: SL Obispo – Buellton via Santa Maria, 67km + 69km
After
Ivana has tested the recumbent tandem bike, we headed off. Matt &
Rita joined us all the way to took us through some nice back roads to
Pismo Beach, where we had lunch together before they headed back.
We continued through nice country roads before we entered the large
busy city of Santa Maria. It took us a long time to pas the dozens of
traffic lights, while dodging thousands of huge trucks…
It was dark before we made it to Bill Korn’s house, another welcoming host that was a rider himself. he cooked up an Argentinean asado and Ivana felt right at home.
The next morning Bill joined us and showed us some more back roads.
It is so nice to stay with local cyclists as they always know the best
routes to take and this was no exception. Following some steep hills we
ended up the ‘Foxen Canyon Road’.
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Halfway up Bill
said goodbye and turned back using another nice route, while continued
our ascent. It was actually longer and higher than the route in our
guidebook, but we still felt guilty about our ride with Eric the other
day, so it was no problem doing the 30 extra km.
Besides, the slope was much more gentle, we hardly noticed that we
went up to 400m altitude until the last steep climb. Then after a nice
downhill and another steep climb, it was all the way down to the quaint
town of Solvang, passing friendly Los Olivos on our way.
Solvang was the base of a Danish community and their Danish and
Dutch ancestry is clearly visible in the buildings and local shops. We
even found good cheese, dropjes & pepermunt!
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The latter we took as a gift to our hosts for the night: Joe and Carol had invited their best friends and cycling partners and together with their housemate we had a really nice dinner. Carol, who is a painter, had cooked for al 7 people and we had a great time.
It is such a pleasure to meet all the nice US citizens on this trip.
Most people are very different in background, but they are all very
friendly and hospitable.
The next morning we had a great incentive to leave early and arrive
in Santa Barbara. Our hotel was waiting. ‘Hotel? How about that
budget?’ I hear you say… the next report will clear all mysteries 
Kowalski! Status report!
The knee works quite well. On the bike it feels good, off the bike it is painful. Guess I just have to keep on cycling!
Our bikes are indestructible as ever. Still we are stuck at a few
flat tires for Ivana (I think 3) and only one for me, after a total of
7656km so far!
