Battambang at Christmas, I never would have thought. It's the seat of the Battambang Diocese for the Catholic Church, and last night I attended their Christmas Eve celebration. Celebration is the only word that rings true - there was a carnival, lights strung all over the grounds, a movie (in Khmer), a Nativity Pageant (in Khmer), and a mass (in Khmer, with English explanations thrown in by the Dominican {I think he's Dominican} Bishop). There were not that many foreigners, and there were Tons of locals. The energy and festivity was great to be around. It was so easy to enjoy the night because it didn't compare at all to anything I'd experienced. When Christ was born during the nativity pageant, Fireworks went off - alot of fireworks. The music had different beats and cadences, and traditional dance and costume were used as well. Everything was staged at an outdoor stage, except for the mass which was held in the church. Battambang had a stately old St. Pat's style church dating way back, but it was destroyed by the Khmer Rouge. During the 90's, the church was able to get their land back, and they have built simpler, but no less spiritual structures. The Christmas spirit, hope, gratitude, generosity - it filled up the room. As my neighbor at the guesthouse and I walked home from the service, we sang some Christmas Carols on the deserted streets, and enjoyed the stars. It was a lovely night.
