Somewhere Out There

London

bettedarling — Wed, 6 Apr 2011 01:55:00 GMT

London is literally seeping with history. And pubs. The days have been nice, for the most part, and the parks are fantastic. I've walked around and bumbled up and down streets for the past few days. I've seen some beautiful architecture, heard great music, and saw a show on the West End. All in All, my London experience has been really nice. But the truth is, I can't wait to get to New York. I'm near the end, and the anticipation to be back in the US is a little maddening. I'm not really able to look back on the last few months with anything that doesn't resemble a jumble of languages and images. Right now, the only clear view I have is forward. But my thanks go out to Everyone who has helped me along this trip - I absolutely literally couldn't have done it without each and everyone of you. Now that I'm going home, I'll have the chance to collect my thoughts and rehash and enjoy all of my memories. Right now I'm getting ready to pack up my bag and get ready for tomorrows travels. I'm flying into Newark, very anticlimactic, but I'm being met at the airport by my dear friend Tina, and shuttled back into the New York - a city that, let's face it, can't be beat. I wouldn't compare it to any of the places I've been, but I will never feel about any of them the way I feel about New York. Whats not to love - the urine stained subways? The foul mouthed cabbies? The dirty water dogs? I'm bizarrely looking forward to all of it (ok, and the museums, great food, amazing people, ect.,ect.). Back to London - Once more into the breach dear friends, once more - by which I mean I'm off to have a final pint with my friend.

Armagnac

bettedarling — Fri, 25 Mar 2011 03:47:00 GMT

Gascony is Brilliant. I am in Armagnac country with my last HelpX hosts, who are fantastic. Apparently this is one of the least populated areas in France, and it is beautiful. There are rolling winter wheat fields, Armagnac chateaux, and Vines everywhere. Something about the area makes me want to stay, or at least come back as soon as possible. It feels a bit slower than the rest of France, and it's more relaxed, even in the markets. Deb and Keith, my hosts, are British Expats, and they have been welcoming, generous and appreciative of the work I've done. They are also great people to talk to about the world, wine, and whatever else has come up. All in all, I'll be sad to leave. We were in Condom (insert bad joke here) the other day for the market, and I went inside an old church. Wonderfully done, Gothic style, with stained glass that almost made me cry it was so beautiful. The sun shining in at the perfect angle only helped matters. That city, or large village, is one of the biggest in the area and full of charm and Armagnac. Which I have decided to drink for the rest of my days. Amber liquid, or mahogany depending on the age, with great notes, and the perfect glass to swirl in your palm. Such a pleasure to sip, enjoy, and Smell. The weather has been grand, all sun and blue sky, with the occasional blast of wind, which I'm told is not that common (the wind, not the spring weather). France! It only gets better for this traveler - I can't believe I'll be leaving in a week. BUT, I will be able to see Jim and Laurent again before I go, and that's something to look forward to. After our Amazing meal in Bordeaux, (Thank you again Gentlemen!) we jumped around the city and I got my bearings before I revisit the city next week. It's got a great vibe, and Jim showed me some spots to check out. I'm still thinking about that meal - I had a delicious selection of Foie Gras, a specialty of the area. I know PETA wouldn't be happy, but I can't please everyone.

FOOD`

bettedarling — Thu, 17 Mar 2011 19:22:00 GMT

My last night in Aix I was treated to a wonderful meal with Christelle and Didier at his parents home. We had a wonderful meal with roasted meat, charcuterie, wine, Champagne, cheese, pasta, conversation and delightful desserts. I was glowing from wonderful food and companionship. It was a perfect sendoff, and I am so grateful and looking forward to hosting or seeing them all again, especially Christelle and Didier. Now I have arrived in St. Quentin du Dropt with my Uncle Jim and his partner Laurent. They have a wonderful bakery where Laurent, the Artisan, makes beautiful sourdough bread in a lovely cast iron wood fired oven. They specialize in Organic breads, and they are both wonderful cooks. I have been treated to home made pesto pizza with garlic and shrimp, fresh salads, roasted vegetables, more amazing charcuterie, more wonderful wine, mostly organic and very good, and, well, again the list goes on and on. Furthermore, the company here is as good if not better than any I have had throughout my travels. Yesterday I went with Jim to one of his weekly markets and had the chance to meet some of his loyal customers, of which there are many, and see the city of Agen. The French towns and cities I have visited each have their own charm as well as a current of pure Francais. That might seem obvious, but it is still something I am struck by each day, and so enjoyable that it is worth mentioning again. Their village is quite small and relaxed, perfect for walks, conversation and wood fired stoves, of which they have more than one. The studio above the bakery where I am staying has one that has lulled me to sleep everynight. I have decided that I must have one when I am lucky enough to have my own home. Now I must wrap up with more to come later, we are headed to Bordeaux for the day for a lovely meal and city viewing with Laurents cousin. More to come soon....

Nice was Nice

bettedarling — Tue, 8 Mar 2011 21:44:00 GMT

Yesterday I was in Nice in the heart of the French Riviera. It's not high season, but the city still has a holiday vibe. The daily market is lovely, and on Mondays it becomes an antique market for the area. I looked around, spokes some french, and made my way towards the sea. The beach is full of small stones, and the water was anything but calm. I sat and listened to the surf rolling in, and enjoyed the hefty sea breeze. I didn't grow up near big beaches or seas or the ocean, but I still find a lot of comfort from it. Those noises let my mind wander into places it wouldn't otherwise. Also, the feel of the surf gusting into my hair and skin seems to wake everything up. The palm trees were blowing and the ferris wheel was turning. There is a little Children's park right near the beach. It was a good day. Now I'm back in Gonfaron and I'm about to take a walk around the village. The small Provencal streets are perfectly picturesque. Soon I will be leaving for the west, and I will miss this area. I'm promising myself a return, and not in the distant future.

Paris, Aix, Provence, FRANCE

bettedarling — Wed, 2 Mar 2011 00:26:00 GMT

I can't say enough about my experiences in France thus far. First of all, Paris captured my attention and admiration from the beginning. Christelle and I stayed with friends of hers in the city, with a view of the Eiffel Tower (if you leaned out the window). It was perfect. And Olivier and Xavier, her friends were so kind and giving. I began to enjoy the French style of dining from the beginning. As for the city, I know in my life I will live in Paris. I'm not sure how or when, but I promise that it will happen. There is so much - so different from New York, but I want to be in the middle of it, in the same way I wanted to be in the middle of NYC. The Musee de l'Orangerie was particularly amazing. It houses Monet's giant Waterlillies, and the rooms they are housed in are perfect for sitting and enjoying the magnitude of the paintings. If time permitted, I could have sat there for hours. As it was, I dragged myself away and skipped through the rain to the Louvre. The Place de la Concorde was bustling and as we walked through the Gardens I fell in love with the city. Christelle was an amazing guide, getting us from place to place, train to train. Eventually, we said goodbye to Paris, and headed to Aix. It's not a very historical city in terms of ruins or relics, but very chic and fashionable, as well as the home of Cezanne and the Sainte Victoire. The people watching is unparalleled. There are also beautiful fountains scattered around the city, especially near the Cours Mirabeau and the old city. Marseilles is very close, and we visited the sea and the city. The Old Port is still picturesque, and their is vibrant multicultural vibe. I also stayed in Eguilles, a small village near Aix where Christelle and Didier, her boyfriend, have their home. The Provencal countryside mixed with the wonderful company equated to some near perfect days. Christelle and Didier are both wonderful cooks and have treated me to excellent meals, cheese and French hospitality. Didier is a vigneron, and I was able to look at his vineyards and ask some questions about the local wines and laws. Christelle is currently researching her PhD, the topic including english literature during and about the AIDS crisis. Over the past few weeks I've had some of the most interesting and thoughtful conversations in my trip. Furthermore, simply catching up with Christelle on life and all it's many intricacies has been a pleasure. Once again, reconnecting with an old friend has brought about wonderful times and I'm so blessed to have someone who is so kind and thoughtful as a friend. Meeting Didier has also been such a pleasure, and he has been so sweet to speak English with me, or try to understand my stunted French. I couldn't be happier here in France, and I can't wait to find a way to come back and live for an extended period of time. I'm looking forward to seeing my Uncle Jim and his partner Laurent very soon, in less than 2 weeks! People are the thing, they can bring out the small mysteries and simple pleasures of a place - I've been so lucky on this trip and I've had that happen so often. Thank you Thank you Thank you to my friends, family, the Universe, God and my Gaurdian Angel.

Photos: France; wonderful France.

bettedarling — Fri, 25 Feb 2011 08:44:00 GMT

Photos: German I

bettedarling — Fri, 25 Feb 2011 02:00:00 GMT

Photos: The Middle East (and Me).

bettedarling — Wed, 23 Feb 2011 04:09:00 GMT

Wadi Musa, Petra, and the sights of Syria.

Saarland

bettedarling — Mon, 14 Feb 2011 21:57:00 GMT

Well I've had a very relaxing couple of weeks. I've also had the chance to get to know the area. Nadia, my host, is very nice, and is a native of the area. Last Friday, she hosted a Couchsurfing event and we met a lot of people from the area, both locals and ex-pats living in the area. It was a really fun night, full of local food, drinks and chocolate. Honestly, I've been eating too much local chocolate (and gummy bears, which are also local), but it was really a fun night. Potatoes are an integral part of the menu, and many people prepared them in many delicious ways. I also got into a soccer club's poker night, and even though we didn't have a lot of common language, Texas Hold-em needs no translation. There are some great walks in the area. It's rural, with lots of cute villages dotting the landscape. I've found some nice trails, going past horse farms and rivers. All in all, it's a beautiful area with great people. As I get ready to leave, I'm sorry I'll miss out on the spring bloom. But, I'm lucky enough to see that bloom in France, so I'm not too upset. It's funny to think that it's almost spring, and I'll be home in the spring. Everything is wrapping up, or spiraling forward anyway. I can't wait to see Paris, France, London, and my friends and family. Finally, I'm very excited to look for a job and get to work. The world has been shifting and moving a lot in the last few months, and so have I. Soon I'll have the chance to put all of my new perspectives and ideas and drive into action. I love that I have gotten to know the world a little better, and now I want work to make some changes in our world. As I watch the news and talk to locals, I'm so pleased to know that my President is my President. I'm an American, a proud American, and I want to represent America well as I travel. I want to live up to being an American. Being out in the world, out of my own country, has been an opportunity to get a broader view of where America fits into the world. I have a broader view of where I want to fit into my country. Now I'm off to Paris, and I'm going to learn more and see more and meet more people who will continue to broaden my perspective. Onward and Upward. Forward March. I think you get the idea. Do you have your own idea?

Aleppo, Berlin, and the Future

bettedarling — Fri, 4 Feb 2011 05:53:00 GMT

After wonderful Damascus, I headed to Palmyra and the Krak de Chevaliers, the crusader castle from the 12th Century. Both were amazing to see, truly unique and beautiful. It's low season for tourism, so in both cases, I practically had the place to myself. The only trouble was a small case of food poinsoning that included being sick on an ancient ruin in the middle of the desert. Thankfully, as I said, I had the place to myself. Since I had a limited amount of time, I didn't let the sick get me down, and forged ahead. The Krak was especially deserted, and it felt surreal, very imaginative and from a time forgotten. I'll be able to post pictures, hopefully soon, but between weird internet connections and time crunches, it might be another week or so. A quick note about a fellow traveler, a woman named Michelle from Australia. I met her on the top of a cliff overlooking Palmyra. We talked for about an hour, during which I found out she had biked across Asia, from North Korea through China, Uzbekistan, Mongolia, and everything in between to continue across Europe and end in Paris, where, ironically, her bike was stolen from her friends apartment lobby as they carried her bags up to the apt. She's gone across Africa, now she's going from Europe through the Middle East, all on a bike. So, just proof, once again, that anything is possible. After sightseeing, I headed to Saraqib, a village near Aleppo in the north of Syria. There I stayed with the Kourdoni family, and I had an amazing experience getting to know true Syrians. Hassan is on Couchsurfing, and he officially hosted me, but his parents and sisters were all part of the experience. It was great to meet them, eat with them, talk with them and generally share cultures. Due to the situation in Egypt, there was a lot of talk about politics, and I learned so many things. I feel very lucky to have heard first hand the way people there, including their friends and some coworkers, feel about the political situations in the Middle East. I'm constantly humbled on this trip by the amount of information I'm not aware of, and how limited my own views can be. My mind has been blown open more than once, and I feel lucky to have had these opportunities to question my world view and opinions. After the wonderful hospitality I enjoyed in Syria, I had what can only be termed a horrendous time getting into and out of Turkey on my way to Germany. The story is long, complicated, disturbing, and hilarious - I know I couldn't do it justice on paper. Thankfully, I made it through in one piece, and my wonderful friend Anja met me at the airport in Berlin. Her father drove us to their family home, and I spent the next few days being escorted and hosted around Berlin. Anja currently works near Hannover, but she and her girlfriend Hannah came up to Berlin to show me around before we headed to their home in Lehrte. It was so wonderful to spend time with Anja, her parents and Hannah. I seem to have the best friends who are also the most generous hosts. They showed me the town - museums, wonderful food, and of course wonderful company. Seeing an old friend is always a joy, but making new friends makes it all the better. Also, I was able to see Hannover, which apparently is the town my Great Great Grandmother hailed from before crossing over to the USA. Today I said goodbye to my friends, and headed across Germany on the Train. I had such a great time watching the scenery and enjoying the novelty of train travel. It was exhilerating, and between my hot coffee and good book, I couldn't have asked for anything more. Now I'm in a small village near Saarbrucken on the German/French border, and I'll be staying here volunteering for the next two weeks. My host, Nadia, has recently returned from her own travels, and I'm looking forward to sharing stories and getting to know her village. After that, Paris!

Damascus - Syria!

bettedarling — Sat, 22 Jan 2011 12:33:00 GMT

Well, I love Damascus. Seriously. I haven't felt this way about a city since my first few days in New York. The Souqs (markets) with some stalls which are older than the USA. The Jasmatiya St. - the Las Vegas of Sweets - mmmmm, so delicious - honey, phillo, walnut, chocolate, pisctachio, Sugar.... you get the point. The old city has so many great winding streets, and the Street called Straight from the Bible. Beautiful Mosques, the Citadel, the Museum which houses the oldest written alphabet, the first musical score, and so much ancient glass, pottery, weapons, jewelry - I could go on like this for awhile. At the museum I met a wonderful guide, Damascene, and he speaks French, no English, so I was able to brush up a bit as we walked around. After we had a cup of tea and and relaxed in the gardens. The hospitality here is unbelievable - as a woman traveling alone, I never would have expected to find the Middle East the safest and most open of all the places I've gone. Many shopkeepers want to meet me, practice their english, have a conversation, and invariably, offer me tea. I've helped operate an old silk brocade machine, found a great, hidden, open air restaurant in the Old City, and been shown Bosra from the corner shop of a vegetable seller. Honestly, so many great things have happened, small, specific moments in time that I feel blessed to have. Damascus is the oldest inhabited city in the world, and it feels so full of Life. The difference between Ancient and Old are sinking in, and as I head to Europe, my frame of reference is completely different from when I started this trip. I"m still very excited to see Notre Dame and all the other aspects of architecture and life - but after walking in the same street as the Apostle Paul, well, as I said, my frame of reference has shifted. Today I'm off to Palmyra, the Romans ruins at the oasis in the desert, and then the Krak de Chevaliers - a fairytale Crusader castle - maybe that sounds a bit oxymoronic, but I think you get the point.

Petra and Wonderful Hospitality

bettedarling — Mon, 10 Jan 2011 17:00:00 GMT

Yesterday I had the pleasure of visiting Petra, one of the New Wonders of the World. Walking through the Siq, and passage cut into the sandstone rock face thousands of year ago, I came upon the Treasury, a building cut into the rose colored rockface and made famous by Indiana Jones and the Last Crusade. Thrilling! Magical - a clear moment in time that I won't forget. Rami's cousin, Mohammad, who works with horses for the tourists in Petra, walked me through the city and was my 'tour guide.' I had such a wonderful day climbing desert cliffs, checking out the buildings and breathing in the Ancient Air. I'll have pictures in the future. Everyone I've met has been so kind and helpful, some of the cab drivers too helpful, but I've rolled with it all. Tonight we'll go to Rami's parents home for dinner and cards. Between being offered tea, food, and generally being made welcome, I've had an easy transition from one part of the world to another. Adjusting to the pace of life has been interesting - either we've been relaxing with food, tea and conversation (much of which I can't understand in Arabic - but which is usually translated for my sake) OR communal work getting things done quickly so as to relax once again. But nothing feels rushed, in fact, life seems to have slowed down, no matter how busy we might be. The sounds of the prayer call give me a much better idea of the time than clocks, which aren't very abundant. I'm starting to understand Arabic pop music, which, as far as I can tell, is very similar to American pop music, or Thai pop music for that matter. Some things transcend cultures. After seeing Petra and Angkor Wat, I'm unable to draw comparisons, other than the fact that each culture has been able to make a distinctive mark on their surroundings. Place and culture are so closely intertwined - evidence of whihc can be seen in the desert, the jungle, and definitely New York City. My quest continues into Syria next week, and I'll take a look at the city of Palmyra, a throwback to the Roman Empire with an Arabic castle. Deeper into the desert - Love It.

2011 and going West to the Middle East

bettedarling — Fri, 7 Jan 2011 19:00:00 GMT

I had a wonderful time in Bangkok meeting up with my friend Sophia. We saw some Wats, the Golden Mount, and some other Bangkok highlights as well. There was the weekend market, a day trip to Ayuthaya, and alot of delicious food. All in all, just seeing a good friend and sharing experiences with her was a highlight. Traveling alone has its perks, but it's not the only way to travel, and it was nice to change things up again. Also, I feel like I rang in the New Year just right - listening to live music, having a drink, but most importantly, enjoying where I was in the moment. I can get too caught up in the future or plans or what is and isn't, and it's so important to shut all of that down sometimes, and just soak up the seconds that are ticking away - quite literally on NYE. 2011 has started off well, and now that I'm in Jordan, everything seems to be moving forward at a quick speed. I'm currently in Wadi Musa, the town next to Petra. I'm volunteering with a couple who sets up tourist trips and is just resettling their base here. So far I've done so organizing, cleaning and been a bit of a dogsbody. Brenda and Rami, as well as Rami's family, have made me feel very much at home. We've been drinking endless cups of sweet tea, and I'm getting used to all the wonderful differences and Jordanian customs. Between eating, greetings, and, well, right now it all feels unique. They took me out to the desert for a sunset when I first arrived, and it was stunning. The desert here is magestic, full of hills and rocks, crevices and colors. I'll visit Petra in the next week, and I'm sure it will blow me away. The town of Wadi Musa is built into the hills of the area, and the blue winter sky has been shining down on us every day. I didn't expect the winter nights to be quite this cold, but thankfully, Brenda and Rami have plenty of blankets. I'm also enjoying their library, currently "The Valkyries" by Paulo Coelho. I loved "The Alchemist" and Valkyries is turning out to be of the same caliber - a search for Angels. My New Years resolution was to lighten up, and the subject matter isn't too helpful, but the laid back and welcoming Jordanian atmosphere are perfectly in tune with taking each day as it comes.

Khmer Christmas

bettedarling — Sat, 25 Dec 2010 12:15:00 GMT

Battambang at Christmas, I never would have thought. It's the seat of the Battambang Diocese for the Catholic Church, and last night I attended their Christmas Eve celebration. Celebration is the only word that rings true - there was a carnival, lights strung all over the grounds, a movie (in Khmer), a Nativity Pageant (in Khmer), and a mass (in Khmer, with English explanations thrown in by the Dominican {I think he's Dominican} Bishop). There were not that many foreigners, and there were Tons of locals. The energy and festivity was great to be around. It was so easy to enjoy the night because it didn't compare at all to anything I'd experienced. When Christ was born during the nativity pageant, Fireworks went off - alot of fireworks. The music had different beats and cadences, and traditional dance and costume were used as well. Everything was staged at an outdoor stage, except for the mass which was held in the church. Battambang had a stately old St. Pat's style church dating way back, but it was destroyed by the Khmer Rouge. During the 90's, the church was able to get their land back, and they have built simpler, but no less spiritual structures. The Christmas spirit, hope, gratitude, generosity - it filled up the room. As my neighbor at the guesthouse and I walked home from the service, we sang some Christmas Carols on the deserted streets, and enjoyed the stars. It was a lovely night.

Battambang

bettedarling — Tue, 21 Dec 2010 21:32:00 GMT

Yesterday, I hired a guide to take me by motorbike to a couple of sites in the area. We started at the Bamboo Train, which according to rumor, will be out of business in a month or two to make way for a new high speed railway. It was quite fun, picturesque, and unique. It's mostly for tourists, but does still help locals deliver some good to the market. The countryside was beautiful, and I met some cool travelers from Austria on my car. After that, we headed off to a nearby mountain where a Khmer Rouge Killing Cave sits, as well as a Buddhist Temple. The Khmer Rouge killed approximately 1.5 Million people between 75-79, and conditions for the Cambodian people were very bleak. There's a lot of documentaries, books and better information out there than I can give, and from what I've heard, read and seen, I still wasn't prepared to be in that cave. Horrible, horrible things have happened here, and the bones and skulls of victims are staring at you as proof of the evil that took place. A Buddhist Temple now in full working order with Monks traveling about now sits at the top of the hill, and I had some good conversations with a few monks, most of whom know at least some english. Many have never left this area, and have learned english from volunteers and teachers from the west. My guide, Doller, has never been outside of Battambang. His english is quite good, and he hopes to see Siem Reap, Angkor Wat, and the capitol, Phnom Penh sometime in the future. None of these is over 5 hours away, and he is 28. I'm not sure what any of this means, or exactly what I think, but I know the history of Cambodia is something I haven't begun to understand. The world is a beautiful place, and it's also full of terrible realities. Concerning Cambodia, I have a lot more questions than I did a week ago. At this point, that's all I'm sure of - except of course that the people have been welcoming, funny, and interesting. I've finally posted pictures, some are a bit out of order time-wise, but not to hard to figure out.

Photos: In the Southeast of Asia

bettedarling — Tue, 21 Dec 2010 19:54:00 GMT

Thailand, Cambodia, Me

Angkor Wat and Siem Reap

bettedarling — Sat, 18 Dec 2010 18:14:00 GMT

When I first started planning my trip, I decided to visit Cambodia and Angkor Wat. Wat means temple, and Angkor Wat is a massive amazing temple that also includes many other temples on the compound. They were built between 900-1500ad, and yesterday, I saw them with two friends and travelers, Asha And Terrance. We decided to bike, as opposed to taking a tuk-tuk (small cart pulled by a motorbike - very picturesque) because we wanted to take our time and go slowly. It was a great decision. Ta Prohm, made famous in TombRaider, was by far our favorite temple. The jungle has totally taken over, and massive trees live in crumbled stone and ruined libraries and pools. It was truly breathtaking. Angkor Wat, the main and most famous structure, was a close second. It has never been fully abandoned, as it was used by Buddhist Monks after the Khmer Kings abandoned the area. Huge Bas-Reliefs adorn the outer walls, and the interior raises up many stories, intricate and beautiful. It was truly a great day. That being said, Asha and Terrance took off this morning for the north, and I'm planning my escape as well. Siem Reap is a total tourist mecca, and it's not only overwhelming, it's a bit disheartening. After coming from northern Thailand, and seeing, working with, and getting to know some actual Thais, to be so far removed from Cambodia's culture and be surrounded by tourism booths, scams and traps makes me more than a bit uncomfortable. I'll be heading to Battambang either tomorrow or the next day, depending on buses, and I hope to get a better taste of Cambodian life and culture. It's a fascinating country, and the people are great - I'm hoping to meet more locals as I travel. Until then, I'll catch up on some emails, make plans for the future, and try not to let my spirits dip. It's been a series of goodbyes for the past week, between Metta, traveling friends, and different countries (and many long travel excursions), so a little time to recharge won't be a bad thing.

Mountains, Buses and Mopeds

bettedarling — Tue, 14 Dec 2010 12:01:00 GMT

I'm in Pai, in the north of Thailand, getting ready to undertake a 30+ hour traveling excusion to Cambodia. My 30 day visa is running out, and I had hoped to make a quick visa run to the Burmese border, but that turned out to be much harder (read: expensive) than I first thought. SO - I'm heading to Angkor Wat a bit earlier than planned. I was sad to leave Metta, where I'd felt really great about helping, learning and meeting the varied people, and I'm glad I stayed longer than planned, even if it means seeing a bit less of the north. Chiang Rai and Mae Hong Son will have to wait for another trip, and of all the places I've visited, Thailand is at the top for return visits. The culture, people and countryside are fantastic. There is so much life here, and while it's adapted to western travelers, it has not lost it's own amazing truth. Riding in the back of minibuses, seeing the scenery from the passenger side (back) of a moped - these are such great memories. Driving by an elephant camp, going deeper into the mountains on crappy dirt roads - all of this and so much more - the world is an amazing and diverse place. That being said, I'm tired, fairly dirty, and more than a bit sad to have left behind some new friends. However, Christmas is coming, and I think, the beach. I'm planning on finding a nice, simple (cheap) bungalow, and laying low. My friend Sophia will be meeting me for New Year's in Bangkok, and I'm really looking forward to catching up and having a partner in crime to check out the city with. I have some great pictures to post, but my camera cord is somewhere in the depths of my bag, and honestly, I can't be bothered to dig it out. Sorry guys. On a more philosophical note, I had a really great conversation about feminism the other night. It's a bit too dense to go into here, but for all of you (and I'm sure there are a lot of you) who want to hear about how I realized I was wrong, remind me to fill you in the next time we're having a beer (or a glass of wine, God I miss wine). Philosophers come in all shapes and sizes, and I've been taught more in 3 weeks than I have learned in certain college terms. Some things I've garnered in the past month, from a variety of sources:

1. Noodle dishes use garlic, fried rice uses onion.

2. When using oyster sauce, use it liberally.

3. Every live needs a neutral.

4. Take things slowly, especially chess and electrical work.

5. When at all possible, don't compare anything - take everything as it is.

6. Stop being uptight (this means you - and me). Either laugh at it, change it, or leave it.

Will I be able to apply any of these lessons to my own daily life? Time will tell. Oh, and listen to Charles Bukowski - "How to be a Great Writer" (drink more beer, among other nuggets of genius).

The Metta Experiment

bettedarling — Thu, 2 Dec 2010 00:32:00 GMT

In the last two weeks, I've learned more than I could put into words, and I'm happy to say I've changed my plans to hang out longer. We're about 30 minutes outside of Chiang Mai, perched on a small hill, in the middle of the Thai countryside. This project, meant to be a sustainable community environment, as well as Buddhist and permaculture learning center, is in it's beginning stages. Two months ago, Chris and Jariya (the couple who put all this into motion) began retrofitting an abandoned property with some buildings and outbuildings. I've helped with demolition, concrete mixing, building, electric, general construction, and Thai Cooking. Jariya, a native of Thailand, is a wonderful cook (as well as human being, lawyer, and friend) and she (like everyone here) has taught me whatever I asked to know (and sometimes much more). The workings of a community are hard to understand. It's a mixture of synergy and work ethic when it's right, and confusion and uncertainty when it's not. Luckily, I've stumbled upon a community that, for the most part, gets it right. I've rarely in my life felt more ignorant, but that being said, I've rarely been in a position to gain so much first hand knowledge. Stu, the permaculture expert has decades under his belt. He's helped me to understand permaculture in a much broader view - not only farming and planting, but retrofitting and rethinking what resources are in front of me. Jariya and Chris (now a professor of Buddhist Studies at Chiang Mai University, previously a Zen Buddhist monk) have given so much of themselves and their time to this project, and it's so exciting to see such honest and sincere dedication. Jake, a recent college grad from the states has been making steps out of rubble, concrete and grit - his work ethic alone is something to marvel at. Johnny, a master electrician and over all handyman, has been safely instructing me in everything from cables to carburetors, all with his Irish sense of humor. Asha, a new volunteer, is here between semesters in New Zealand and India, and she's already made fast friends with a amazing Thai woman - proving both of their generosity of spirit. I could go on, talking about others that have left, and perhaps others who may come, but the point is, I'm among a community of unique and talented people, all of whom I'm learning from daily. I've decided to extend my stay here, and I know it's the right thing to do, sometimes passport stamps aren't the point. It's the people along the way - hopefully I'm giving something back (what exactly I'm not sure) but in any case, today has been another good day. A note for you to contemplate (as I have been): the Buddhists say, "Before enlightenment, chop wood, carry water. After enlightenment, chop wood, carry water." Goodnight.

Thailand (aka Paradise)

bettedarling — Sun, 28 Nov 2010 21:23:00 GMT

Loy Krathong was last weekend, and in the north, Chiang Mai, the Yee Peng festival. This lantern festival is tied together with Buddhism, and the Wats (temples) have celebrations all weekend. I can not put into words the mystical and mythical beauty of the lanterns being let off into the night sky. They are made from Mulberry paper, and as they rise into the air, by the hundreds and thousands, your worries are meant to go with them. I was with some friends, and we sat by the Ping River for hours, listening to the throngs of people, watching fireworks, and taking in the lanterns. Loy Krathong is more focused with floating small flower offerings with lights and incense down the river. This is meant to offer apologies to the river for our pollution. The people, parades, street food, markets, Lanterns - I was so overwhelmed I couldn't stop looking at the sky. The lanterns owned the night. The moon made a guest appearance but the stars didn't show their faces. The lanterns were so delicate, so elegant, and at the same time sturdy and strong. But the faces of people letting them off, or simply watching in the crowd were spellbinding. I realize I'm using dramatic language, but it seems paltry and riduculous to use any language, to try to describe this experience at all. It was one of the largest nights of my life. I will forever remember it, and be thankful for stumbling upon it.

As the night wore down, we went for dinner, and I realized I wasn't hungry, but my feet were killing me. So...I sat down at one of the many outdoor massage shops and had a foot massage. As I was relaxing, looking up into the sky and seeing the occasional lantern, a baby elephant and his handler mumbled down the street. I gasped in suprise and the lady working on my feet smiled, and somehow (she didn't speak english and I don't speak Thai) she realized I was talking about the elephant, and she yelled at his handler to bring him over. I bought some elephant snacks, and I sat feeding a wonderfully soft, squishy, leathery elephant, and letting him nuzzle me with his trunk. All the while my feet were being rubbed, and the sky and air were alive with the festival. I can only tell you it was completely sureal, and as I tried to journal about it the next morning (at Starbucks - there are 6 in Chiang Mai) I still couldnt' put anything into words. The juxtaposition of my night and Starbucks (which is airconditioned with comfy chairs) didn't help matters. All in all, I saw a completely different side of the world, and I felt very lucky to have done so. This is an amazing place, full of life and unique people and customs. It's enthralling. I've learned just a few sentences in Thai, and even the sounds in my mouth feel wonderful. I still need to write a good account of Metta, which has been rewarding and amazing in so many different ways. Enjoy your night my readers, it holds more magic than you might think.