It’s baking hot as we make our way with Neil and Di to Rose’s pad. We’re very optimistic about this place and don’t even notice the sweat running off our backs as we trundle over some rock-strewn track flanked by pig sty’s, chicken coups and ramshackle nippa huts. We say hello to numerous Filipino kids on the way and I feel a fleeting pang for the classroom.
In brief, Rose’s place was beautiful with a sea view and rather grand central water feature; alas it’s not private enough for us and we went away at a loss. Still, we both felt we had made a good friend in Rose and hoped she wouldn’t be offended by our decline. Later that evening she invites us to Roxy’s for a Halloween party complete we band, dancers and free food. We cordially accept.
After some discussion and viewing yet more unsuitable accommodation, we decide to head down to Tongo Point and negotiate a rent with Linda and Alfon. We find them both amiable and honest, so agree to take their room with a view to a 1 month trial. They say we can move in that night, so we hurry back to Panagsama to gather up our stuff, have dinner and make a brief appearance at Roxy’s for the party.
Just as we’re applying our “Off” (mosquito repellent) for the night’s activities we are confronted with sudden pitch blackness. Bloody power cut! Luckily we have already packed up all our stuff, ready for the move out to Tongo Point.
One of Pacita’s (the resort we are staying in) staff approaches our cottage with a candle; he tells us that the whole area is without power. Great timing, we think. As with all predicament‘s such as these, one feels better equipped when one has beer in ones’ hand. Prepared with torches we resolvedly purchase a couple of San Miguel’s, deciding to sit on the beach and see how many beers it’ll take for the lights to come on.
Two or three bottles later, the light still eludes us, as does the prospect of dinner. But the sea looks great and the stars are out in their masses, with nothing to compete with and in utter darkness; their brilliance highlights our day.
We notice that some of the restaurants have a faint glow about them, so hungrily we make our way towards them. We both go for the adobe option (Filipino dish), I choose the chicken, and Stef has the squid. It’s delicious and we both realize that food always seems to taste better in candlelight. For a moment the lights come back on and we hear a wave like cheer surge through the village. It lasts for a second and is followed by an equally wave like sigh. Never mind.
By the time we head over to Roxy’s, the electricity is back and the party is in full swing. Evidently, there’s a prize for the best Halloween costume. As we somberly deliver our news to Rose that we’ll be taking the place at Tongo Point, Ella slinks up beside us, wearing a stunning white ball gown. Again we are mystified by her beauty; her hair appears longer and her eyes have turned blue. We’re both staggered by the brilliance of her shining white teeth, identical to the pure white of her sparkling gown. Her suitor for the night is at least twice her age, wrinkly and as pasty as his panama. She accepts a drink from him and sashays away to the dance floor. I’m disappointed that we didn’t bring our camera; she’d made quite a picture. Our eyes and ears are utterly absorbed, what with a nine piece band and rapidly heaving dance floor; we’re sad that our appearance is only brief.
When our trike driver arrives to take us to Tongo Point we feel like a couple of kids being swept away early by an over protective parent. How very uncool. Despite missing the party we both feel somewhat relieved to be escaping the booming all night disco that occurs every Saturday night in Panagsama and which, unless you join, you will eventually be beaten by (except if you have some industrial ear-plugs or regular supply of Temazipam).
As promised, when we arrive at Linda’s place, our bed has been made and there are fresh towels waiting for us. We crawl into bed, relieved that we finally have a place to call home…