South Korea might not technically be my backyard, especially not
now that I'm back in Australia and away from the land of kimchi, all
night binge drinking, and criminally short skirts.
As a part of World Nomads Blog Your Backyard
project, I've decided to cover South Korea rather than Australia. Why?
Because Australia gets plenty of press already! South Korea's something
of an undiscovered vacation spot.
Week one calls for me
to highlight a few do's and don't's in South Korea - the country I
called home for two and a half years. So, here we go!
Do try the fantastic food
Delicious ddok galbi was my personal favorite. Spicy chicken, rice, chewy ddok (rice cakes), and cheese!
Korean food
really doesn't get a lot of play around the world. While every man and
his dog is familiar with Japanese sushi, Mongolian BBQ, and a good beef
& black bean from the local Chinese take out - the world really
hasn't been treated to the wonders of a good galbi meal; some spicy
kimchi; or the icy sweetness of pot binsu.
I'll admit this about Korean food - it very rarely looks
appetizing. This is not a country obsessed with creating food that
looks good, but don't let that fool you. My mouth literally waters at
the thought of a spicy ddok galbi lunch or a heart bibimbap breakfast
to kick start my day.
But enough of my yammering. I'm not going
to do Korean food justice in a short entry. Let some pictures and a few
of my older entries on Korean food and Korean street food do the talking for me.
Don't eat boshintong
Could you really eat this cute little guy? Picture courtesy of Wikipedia
Far
be it from me to judge a country that chooses to eat the cute and
cuddly dog. I come from a country where both of the animals on our
national crest (the kangaroo and emu) are regular features on the menu.
I've got no qualms about a country's choice of meat.
But
boshintong, a soup made from the meat of Jindo dog, crosses a bit of a
line for me. Rather than the (comparitively) humane way in which cattle
or chickens are killed in developed countries - dogs that are bred for
meat are literally beaten to death. Why? Because
Korean cultural lore says that the adrenaline in the dog when it dies
will go towards increasing a man's stamina. And I don't mean his
ability to run a race.
Do get out and experience some festivals
Celebrate the arrival of Spring by visiting Jinhae for their annual Cherry Blossom Festival.
Koreans love their festivals. Don't believe me? Here's just a few of the many, many festivals you can find around Korea during the year.
And
that is literally just a handful of the bigger festivals on show each
year. There are dozens and dozens of them, and there's even overlap
(multiple cities host cherry blossom festivals and lantern festivals)
so you can miss one and still make its sister event later in the year.
Slipping and sliding my way down a mud slide at the Boryeong Mud Festival in 2009.
Each
festival offers a unique insight into some facet of Korean culture, but
it's also a great opportunity to try some new foods and see a new
corner of Korea.
Don't cling to the Western World
Korea,
like much of Asia, has made rapid strides to fit into the Western
world. You'll find a McDonalds on virtually every corner and there's
Western clothing outlets from Gap to H&M to Forever 21. Sometimes
these comforts from home
are a necessary evil. You might have had a rough day and the only thing
that will stave off the tears is a juicy Whopper and a poorly acted Vin
Diesel movie.
A sinfully good European Frico Cheese burger from Lotteria.
But
it's easy to slip from occasional indulgence to 'home away from home'
while you're in Korea, and you're not only depriving yourself of the
true Korean experience - you're likely to put on a whole bunch of
weight in the process.
Getting out to explore some hole in the
wall kimbap joint or a smoky soju bar lets you get in touch with the
real Korea and the real Koreans who inhabit it. You're far more likely
to meet a unique character in a Korean restaurant than you are queuing
for a sub at Quizno's in Itaewon.
Do drink
Korea is a country with a rich drinking culture.
Between soju being dirt cheap and available virtually everywhere;
employers encouraging their employees to come out on nightly visits to
soju bars and noraebangs (singing rooms); and the lack of an open
bottle law - Korea really is a drinker's paradise.
Myself and Jesse (his English name) rocking some Bon Jovi at a Korean owned brew pub in 2008.
Events
such as the Mud Festival are borderline hedonistic, but even your
average week night in Korea will see locals and foreigners alike
carousing in the bars and in the streets. The bright neon lights that
line most Korean streets put you in mind of Las Vegas, and the illusion
is supported by the seemingly limitless supply of soju bars, hofs (beer
& food), foreigner bars, cocktail lounges, noraebangs, and
restaurants serving up libations ranging from locally brewed beer to
imported whiskeys.
Fruit soju. Mana from heaven.
If
you like to imbibe, you're going to have a great time in Korea. It's a
country where drinking is every bit a big a part of life as eating rice
three times a day and loving the taste of kimchi.
Don't be a bad representation of your country
Koreans completely understand a good hangover, but remember that you're an ambassador for foreigners everywhere.
I
don't say this in a confrontational or derisive way - but South Korea
is still a somewhat insular nation with a very out-dated view of the
rest of the world. If you look at their history of being invaded by all
and sundry though, you can understand their over-arcing cultural
xenophobia.
That's not to say the average Korean is a foreigner
hating maniac. The vast majority of Koreans I met were very excited to
be meeting somebody from another country. There's a pervasive
fascination with all things Western in South Korea, but it's tinged
with a kind of innocent ignorance that can be offensive to some.
When
I told my employer I was dating a South African girl, for example, he
mimed waving a spear above her head as if the nation was full of
savages.
Dealing with this feeling of being an outsider is all a
part of the Korean experience, but you don't make things any easier for
yourself or for others if you play the part of the evil foreigner. It's
one thing to enjoy a drink and have a good time and another thing to
get drunk and pick a fight. It's one thing to make a tiny cultural faux
paus and another thing to flaunt your cleavage in defiance of Korean
tradition.
More-so than a lot of other countries, Korea is a
nation that needs to be treated with respect. Every disrespectful
foreigner is only setting back the cause of breaking down Korean racial
stereotyping.
Do soak in Korea's natural beauty
It
might not be immediately obvious amidst the towering sky-scrapers and
the neon lined streets, but the Korean peninsula boasts a lot of truly
beautiful natural landscapes. While Jejudo's volcanic mountains and beaches are the most famous of these, there are secret places all over the nation that will capture any photographer's imagination.
Beautiful Daewonsa temple outside of Gwangju in the country's South West
There's beautiful Daewonsa Temple
outside of Gwangju - where Tibetan Buddhist ideals blend seamlessly in
with the gorgeous mountain scenery. There are the countless tiny
islands dotting the west coast of Korea such as Bigeumdo; beautiful beaches such as Gwangalli and Boryeong; snow capped mountain peaks such as Muju; and the vast national parks of Seoraksan.
Bigeumdo island off Korea's SW coast is usually much sunnier than this spooky picture might indicate...
Hikers
are going to be in heaven in Korea as well. The mountainous peninsula
takes full advantage of the many peaks that scar the landscape with
walking trails criss-crossing the nation.
Don't believe all you read
The
Western media love nothing more than to beat up the hostile
relationship between North and South Korea. It seems a month couldn't
pass without a concerned friend or family member asking me if I would
be fleeing the country in light of recent incidents.
"What incidents?" I'd ask.
Truth
is, while the papers of the US and the UK love to talk up the brewing
conflict between the two Koreas - those of us on the peninsula barely
ever even hear about it.
While there is obvious tension to be felt when touring the DMZ,
the fear quickly fades once you get away from the line that separates
communist North Korea and the democratic South. The general feeling in
the South is one of sadness and pity towards their starving Northern
neighbors, and talks of unifying the peninsula are always at the
forefront of the political agenda.
Relax. You'll be fine.
Do explore
If
you only follow only one of the do's and don't's in South Korea I give
here, make it this one. Korea is a small country, but they cram a hell
of a lot into it. The Korean culture is such a fascinating mixture of
thoughts and beliefs - a wonderfully confused blend of thousands of
years of tradition and the rapid absorption of Western ideals and
beliefs.
This has nothing to do with the article, but aren't Korean kids adorable? You'll
never truly experience it without roaming off the beaten track,
stepping outside of the safety of the ever growing foreigner community,
and taking a few risks.
But isn't that true of everywhere?