Aussie on the Road

5 Things You Must Do in Gwangju, South Korea

aussieontheroad — Sun, 28 Aug 2011 16:23:00 GMT

Think of South Korea and your mind immediately leaps to Seoul. It's hard to overlook the massive metropolis that dominates the Korean economy and political scene. It's the centre of Korean culture and the place the rock bands breeze through on their way to more lucrative touring in Japan.

This photo was just too good not to use at some point. Photo by Tony Bush.

I'll doubtless touch on Seoul some more in future, but today I'm taking some time to turn the focus onto the often overlooked city of Gwangju in the country's south-west. The sixth largest city in the country and largely soon as a bit of a rural backwater - Gwangju is not without substantial charms for tourists.

Getting There

One of the best things about a Korean vacation is how accessible the whole country is. While you'll touch down in Seoul - it's a simple task to get down to Gwangju. The KTX leaving from Yongsan Station in Seoul takes a shade over three hours to make the trip - while buses from Seoul or Incheon International Airport complete the trip in around three and a half hours.

The bus has the benefit of a halfway stop at one of the countless roadside 'malls' that dominate Korea. A wide variety of restaurants, shops, and street vendors mean your half hour stop isn't one of thumb twiddling and navel gazing.

It's also possible to fly down to Gwangju, which is serviced by its own international airport.

The Five Things You Must Do in Gwangju

Enough about logistics. You're here to figure out what you should do with your time in Gwangju. On with the show.

#5 - Visit the Boseong Tea Fields

A view out over the tea fields. Photo by Tracey Long.

Located a short bus ride outside of Gwangju, the Boseong Tea Fields offer up a great day trip that not only lets you learn more about Korean culture - but also provides plenty of photographic opportunities.

Local buses from Gwangju can get you out to Boseong in ninety minutes for a affordable sum of 7,300 won (approximately $7). Buses leave every thirty minutes from the Gwangju Bus Terminal. I have to thank grrrltraveler for that information.

Another view of the fields. This one was taken in winter. Photo by Fallon Fehringer.

The rolling hills are home to one of South Korea's most famous green tea plantations. That might not sound particularly impressive, but take a look at a few of the photos below and you'll perhaps appreciate how beautiful the location is.

Located on the coast (you can get to nearby Yulpo Beach with a ten minute bus ride), the natural beauty of this place has made it a must see sight for pretty much everybody I ever knew in Gwangju. I'm ashamed to say I never made the trip myself.

It's not just walking around and looking at tea, although that's a big part of it. There's also the opportunity to sample nokcha (Korean for green tea) and purchase a variety of green tea derived products.

The aforementioned Yulpo Beach also offers the opportunity for a green tea and saltwater bath for 5000 won.

Tours of farms and plantations might not sound up your alley, but it's the beauty of Boseong that sets it apart from the others of its kind. A more serene time will be hard to find in Korea.

#4 - Be moved by the May 18 Memorial and Cemetery

One of many statues at the May 18 Memorial Park

The infamous May 18 Massacre in Gwangju is widely considered to have been the birth of the nation's democracy. Gwangju residents took up arms in protest against the military dictatorship that controlled Korea at the time. Over 150 people were killed in the ensuing riots and police reprisal, but the aftermath saw other uprisings usher in a new dawn of Korean democracy.

In testament the day, Gwangju has a number of sites dedicated to the memory of those who lost their lives. There's the very moving May 18 National Cemetery and the picturesque May 18 Memorial Park.

The cemetery is a really heart-wrenching experience. Located in at the foot of Meudeungsan and accessible by catching the 518 bus from the bus terminal, the May 18 National Ceremony is open year round. A series of monuments and archways make for some beautiful pomp and circumstance, but it's the Memorial Tower that captures just what a tragic but vital event the May 18 movement was. Photographs and messages to those who died will conjure up a tear or two from all but the hardest hearted of travelers.

A view up at the stormy skies over the May 18 Memorial Park

The May 18 Memorial Park isn't quite as moving, but is a beautiful locale in its own right. Located more centrally in the urbanized Seo Gu - the park can be reached by taking a variety of city buses or by taking exit #3 at Uncheon Station and walking for about ten minutes.

The park is a wonderful tribute to what May 18 represented. Not so much because of the monuments (although they are quite interesting) but because the site plays host to children playing, families picnicing, and a gorgeous temple by the name of Muguksa. Surrounded on all sides by high rises and shopping centres, the May 18 Memorial Park is an island of tranquility in the ever swelling sea of urbanized Korea.

A view down the steps from the temple that overlooks the May 18 Memorial Park

Being so far apart, it probably isn't possible to hit both sites in a day - but both are well worth a look.

#3 - Embrace the serenity of Daewonsa

My quiet place. I spent half an hour sitting in the pagoda and listening to the water running underneath me. Bliss.

I've made mention of beautiful Daewonsa on several occasions, but never dedicated any real print to it. I'm a bit hard hearted when it comes to Asian architecture, but my visit to Daewonsa in the summer of 2009 changed my mind.

Dedicated to the Tibetan school of Buddhism and weaving traditional temple design in with the beautiful natural surrounds, Daewonsa is a picture of tranquility.

The archway that acts as the entrance to the temple grounds.

Upon arriving at the temple you step through an intricately carved wooden arch and are presented immediately with a pond. Maybe I'm particularly affected by bodies of water, but I was immediately soothed by the cool coming off the water and the bright colors that surrounded it.

Exploring the temple takes you down wooded paths, over a bubbling stream, and eventually down a thickly forested mountain trail. I took a moment to relax in a shady place by the stream while those I was with snapped photos and just soaked in the sheer beauty of the place.

My favorite part of Daewonsa. I loved the contrast of vibrant orange and serene green.

I could have sat for hours by this pond. So quiet.

There's also a museum to Tibetan Buddhism on site which includes some very graphic photographs of the atrocities that the residents of Tibet have endured over time. After the temple the museum feels like a bit of a let down, but it is still worth taking a brief detour. The museum charges a small 2000 won fee for entry, while the temple is free.

Daewsona is a 35 minute taxi ride from Boseong Bus Terminal or can be reached directly via the 217 bus from Gwangju.

#2 - Go hiking in Meudeungsan Provincial Park

My sole experience with Meudeungsan came in the form of attending a wedding in mid 2008, but I was taken by the natural beauty of the mountain that overlooks Gwangju city.

Riddled with hiking trails and also the site of several temples (Donghwasa, Jeongsimsa, and Wonhyosa) - Meudeungsan is Gwangju's playground. Most of my students and there families tended to spend their weekends there picnicking, hiking, or paying tribute at the temple.

You could spend a few days exploring the trails and temples of Meudeungsan and not see it all. Yongchu Waterfall and the Wonhyo Valley offer particularly enchanting stops along your travels.

You can reach Meudeungsan via Jeongsimsa or Wonhyosa Temple. Both are serviced by a number of buses from the Gwangju Bus Terminal.

#1 - Get in touch with the foreigner community

Out exploring Gwangju with my friends Mike and Liz during my first weekend in Korea. 2007.

While it's true you didn't travel all the way to South Korea to hang out with foreigners, I couldn't write about my home away from home without paying testament to the foreigner community in the city. It was the many friends I made in Gwangju that made Korea feel like home to me - and a lot of them have put more than just money in the bars.

Take, for example, the First Alleyway and its sister store - the Underground Grocer. The Grocer was originally started by long term Gwangju resident Michael Simning to act as a place ex-pats could track down cheese, soda, and other foods from back home.

More recently, the First Alleyway has sprung up as a foreigner friendly restaurant and bar offering up some fantastic Western food. I might be a bit biased since I'm good friends with a lot of the people involved, but there aren't many better ways to kick off a night out than dinner at the Alleyway. And their breakfast menu is riddled with hangover treatments.

The Speakeasy, Gwangju's oldest foreigner bar, often boasts great live music from ex-pats and Korean nationals alike

Not feeling peckish? Gwangju is also home to a number of great bars. The German Bar offers up some Korean brewed beer in the German style, the ever popular Speakeasy is more reminiscent of clubs back home, Bubble Bar is a hot and sweaty night spot, Soul Train offers up a place to chill and play some pool, and Tequilaz brings a taste of Mexico to Korea - complete with Mexican food and imported tequilas.

Tequilaz is a newer player on the Gwangju bar scene

There's also a monthly foreigner dinner run by a mixture of foreigners and Koreans looking to network and bridge the gap between the two cultures. It's a great way to have a sober, social time and make a few new Korean friends as well.

Go to Gwangju!

So often people go to Korea in vacation and they barely make it out of Seoul. They might hit the DMZ tour, do a little shopping in tourist friendly Insadong, and maybe take the KTX down to Busan to check out the Korean beaches - but too many trips fail to take in the full depth of what Korea has to offer.

Gwangju is, moreso than most other Korean cities, the real Korea. While it's rapidly catching up to the rest of the country when it comes to adopting Western values - there's still a lot of the old, pastoral Korea on display here. From the annual kimchi festival to the minor celebrity status that foreigners still enjoy, Gwangju gives you the benefit of seeing authentic Korea without having to give up your creature comforts.

The Best & Worst of South Korea

aussieontheroad — Thu, 25 Aug 2011 16:20:00 GMT

South Korea, sadly, doesn't get the tourist play that a country of its rich cultural heritage probably deserves. People generally overlook Korea in favor of nearby China or Japan and that's a crying shame. There is plenty to love about the Land of the Morning Calm.

Of course, no place is perfect - and that's why I'm bringing you the best and worst of South Korea in part two of the Blog Your Backyard contest.

You can find part one here.

The Best of South Korea

History

A shot taken at one of the many palaces in Seoul

Korea boasts a rich and proud history as an independent nation standing against wave after wave of foreign invaders. Korea has been inhabited by some form of the Korean people since earlier than 2000BC - and while a lot of the historical sites and monuments were unfortunately lost during the Korean War - you can still get a great sense of Korea's history and heritage.

Buddha statues at Daewonsa outside of Gwangju

The country is full of temples, shrines, and other historical sites. While a lot of these were reconstructed after their destruction during the war (giving rise to the adage of "If you've seen one temple, you've seen them all") - you can still get a remarkable sense of the age of the place while sitting on ancient stone seats in Unjusa or Daewonsa.

Seoul itself, while a bustling hub of commerce and technology, still houses many of the older style homes as well as the beautiful palaces that the Emperors of old once called home.

Then there's the fascinating history surrounding Korea's Japanese occupation and the Korean War which followed. Countless museums across the country offer tourists a chance to get in touch with many facets of Korean history - with some of the best being in Seoul, Busan, and Gyeongju. There's also the Korean Folk Village outside of Suwon and the moving May 18 Memorial in Gwangju.

Food

Delicious ddok-boki, a spicy rice cake sold in the streets served with odeng (processed fish)

Many people around the world have probably had a chance to sit down to some delicious Korean BBQ (dubbed galbi if it's beef or seomgyeopsal if it's pork) in their life - but Korean food goes far deeper than sizzling meat served inside lettuce leaves.

Sample the spicy ddok galbi (chicken, spicy sauce, and chewy rice cakes), sweet pot binsu (shaved ice, fruit, and sweet red bean paste), hearty dolsot bibimbap (mixed vegetables and meat served with rice in a hot stone bowl), mandu (dumplings), or the iconic kimchi (spicy fermented cabbage) and you'll understand why I love Korean food so much.

I don't know about you, but I sure am hungry right about now...

Now, Korea isn't a vegetarian's playground, it must be said. The Korean diet centers mainly around white rice, kimchi, and plenty of meat. This is usually beef, pork, or fish. A lot of Koreans don't really get vegetarians, and so you'll have a hard time explaining to them that you want your kimbap (similar to sushi rolls) without ham or tuna. I know of at least one chain, dubbed The Loving Hut, that specializes in vegan food and has stores in many of the larger cities.

Korean food is not without its stranger or less appealing options. Boshintong (dog meat soup) is likely to make some people squirm when they hear how the animals are butchered, and I can't think of many people who don't feel just a little awkward at the sight of still moving octopus legs being coolly shoveled into Korean mouths.

But by and large, Korean food offers up a lot of great savory flavors. I'm hankering for it right now.

The Night Life

Drunk foreigners at The Speakeasy in Gwangju

New York may be the city that never sleeps, but Korea is the country that never sleeps.

I've commented on the Korean drinking culture on several occasions in the past. This is a country that knows how to have a good time. Cheap alcohol is available 24/7 at virtually any corner store in the country, bar prices are very reasonable (as little as $3 equivalent for a Scotch & coke), and there are no end of bars, singing rooms, and clubs for revelers to visit.

It's not all about alcohol though. Korean cafes and restaurants stay open late - as do the larger grocery stores. You can go out at 11.30pm on a weeknight and still pick up a pizza or some bread and milk for tomorrow.

There's late night coffee houses and noraebangs (singing rooms) as well as video game arcades, batting cages, and even small amusement parks that cater to the late night crowd.

If you're a foreigner in Korea and don't feel up to braving a Korean bar, most cities will have at least one foreigner friendly (if not foreigner run) bar for you to frequent. A quick Google search will doubtless turn up a few great places to meet other travelers and have a good time.

Cheap Transport

The Busan Ferry Terminal offers a cheap way to get to Japan from South Korea

Coming back to Australia, I was immediately hit by just how expensive it is to get around here. I pay $4.30 for my ten minute bus ride into the city. A cab home? I'm looking at $30-35 if the roads aren't too busy. If I want to visit my family in Armidale (six hours inland) - I'm looking at $80 each way for the train.

Korea is a small country and the benefit of that is dirt cheap transport. A half hour cab ride might set you back know more than $10. A bus ride? You're looking at a whopping $1.30. Even a trip from Busan in the south to Seoul in the North weighs in at around $30 or slightly more if you want to take the super fast KTX.

The super-fast KTX can get you virtually anywhere in Korea in under four hours. Photo by Tony Bush.

This all adds up to making Korea a very accessible country for tourists. The rail network is impressive and the bus network makes it possible to get virtually anywhere without any real headaches. The 2002 World Cup has also left South Korea with a dearth of airports to make flying from Seoul to Jeju or Mokpo to Busan both easy and affordable.

Even a ferry to Japan isn't so expensive. You're looking at around $85 to take the fast boat across to Fukuoka. Flights out to China, Japan, or South East Asia aren't much more expensive either. Korea is a great place to explore on a budget, and a great place to launch off on your next adventure when you're done.

Winning!

Technology & Internet

The latest model Kia (at the time) on display in Seoul. Photo by Tony Bush.

South Korea is one of the emerging technological hubs of the world. Household names such as Samsung, LG, and Kia all call the country home. As you can imagine, technological gadgets abound and you'll be hard pressed to find a single kid without a smart phone and some kind of portable gaming device in their bag each day.

Better yet? Korea has some of the best internet in the world. I'm talking 100mbps streaming into your apartment with unlimited data for a measly $30 a month. This is a country where gamers and net-heads are on cloud #9.

Natural Beauty

A view of the famous Sunrise Peak and the beach below. Jejudo.

The famous orange bridge atop Wulchasan is a fitting reward for climbing the damned mountain.

Despite being a heavily developed nation that doesn't display a whole lot of regard for the natural environment (see below in my Worsts) - Korea still boasts a number of truly beautiful sites.

First and foremost amongst these is, of course, volcanic Jejudo. Boasting a tropical climate, black sand beaches, and all manner of volcanic lava tubes and craters to explore - Jeju stands head and shoulders above the rest of Korea when it comes to natural wonders.

A calm place at Daewonsa

But that's not to say there isn't beauty to be found on the mainland. Korea's many mountains have been turned into hiker's playgrounds. There are some stunning views to be found atop mountains like Wulchasan, and quite a few remarkable national parks scattered around the country.

Korea boasts four seasons offering up four distinct ways to view the country. There's the bright and fragrant spring, the contrasting colors of the fall, the snow-drifts of winter, and the humid heat of summer to experience. Visit anytime and you're going to see some truly beautiful scenes.

Shopping

A show of decadence. The water show held in Nampodong, Busan's Lotte department store complete with classical music and Russian dancers.

Koreans are without a doubt one of the most materialistic people in the world, and I mean absolutely no disrespect to Koreans by applying that tag. Korea is a national of consumers and it's a shopper's heaven (unless you're of larger stature - see below). There are designer clothes, shoes, and handbags on virtually every street corner.

Korea is a nation where the women are most definitely women - so being pretty is a big priority. Salons and make-up retailers and beauticians abound.

In addition to all of the clothes and shiny things, there's the aforementioned electronic gadgets in abundance and lots of weird and wonderful toys for kids. A special mention also to stationary. I don't think I've ever seen so many varieties of pens, paper, notebooks, and stickers in my life. Teachers and kids alike are going to love it.

By and large, shopping in Korea runs a little cheaper than it does back home. Obviously you're still going to pay a healthy chunk of change for your Louis Vutton, but there's plenty of more affordable options on offer.

Festivals!

A shot from the famous Lantern Festival in Jinju. Photo by Tony Bush.

I've waxed lyrical about the dizzying array of festivals held in Korea each and every year. Rather than bore you with the details again here - I'll instead suggest taking a look at my article on festivals in Korea.

The Worst of South Korea

Racism and Homophobia

It doubtless springs from their history of being brutally invaded and oppressed, but Korea is one of the more xenophobic nations in the world.

That's not strictly true. The older generation most definitely bear the majority of 'waygookin' (foreigners) some ill will for being in their country, but the younger generation have a fascination with all things Western.

The racism isn't so overt with the younger generations, at least not towards white visitors, but until you've heard a student shout 'Obama is a n***er' or asked if your South African girlfriend has a spear - you probably won't completely understand just how pervasive this ignorant racism is. It's not a hateful kind of racism, but it's no less hard to stomach.

This also extends to homophobia as well. Despite the concept of skin friends meaning that grown men will wrestle and walk hand in hand - the idea of 'gay' is completely alien to Koreans. The official line is that there are no homosexuals in Korea, which will come as a nasty surprise to the many gay and lesbian locals who frequent the aptly named 'Homo Hill' in Seoul.

And having been offered a blow-job in a bar in Busan earlier this year by a friendly young Korean gentleman, I think it's safe to say the official line is absolute bunk.

Animal Cruelty

In addition to the somewhat brutal way in which dogs are 'prepared' to be used as meat, there are a few other issues of animal cruelty that animal lovers will find hard to handle. Take, for example, the lives these 'meat dogs' lead up until they are beaten to death.

Most, if not all, tend to spend their entire lives outdoors and on a short leash. They may not ever get walked and they are certainly not treated with any affection. And that makes sense in a way. I know my family and I weren't out in the chicken coop getting to know our chickens that we intended to eat.

But these are dogs. These are animals possessing more than a little intelligence, and to see them grovelling for scraps in the gutter on a rainy day is a depressing sight.

Beyond the dogs - you'll be hard pressed to find a cat whose tail hasn't been broken, and I once got into a verbal war with a middle aged Korean woman who I caught pulling the feathers of a caged bird as it tried desperately to bite her finger in self defense.

It's also evident in the appalling conditions most (but not all, I'm assured) zoos treat their display animals. The lion cubs at Everland, cute as they are, probably warrant better than a small concrete room with a water bowl and a green paint job.

Suffice to say, if you're not a toy poodle being carried around in a woman's handbag, chances are you're not going to enjoy animal life in Korea.

Strange Medical Advice

While it's true that the affordable medical care available in Korea is a pretty sweet deal, it's not without its drawbacks. Here are just a few examples of the less conventional medical experiences I've had or heard of friends having had in Korea.

Sleeping with a fan on in a room with closed windows is lethal. Don't believe me? Look up 'Fan Death'. It's a big deal.
Kimchi cures cancer. And most everything else.
Got a cold? Stomach bug? Chances are you'll be prescribed various herbal remedies with a particular focus on ginseng.
Sick? Prepare to have a needle IN YOUR BUTT. It's just vitamins, but it won't hurt any less.
Drinking cold water causes sickness. Drink it warm.

Good times good times.

Garbage & Yellow Dust in Summer

Yellow dust blanketing Seoul by night. Photo by K.M.C.

Summer in Korea is an exciting time for a foreigner. It's the time of year when you hit the beaches, drink until the wee hours of the morning, and generally have a wild time at events such as the Boryeong Mud Festival.

Fun at the 2009 Boryeong Mud Festival

But it's not without a few drawbacks.

First and foremost is the dreaded 'yellow dust', a cloud of potentially dangerous dust that blows in from the Gobi Desert and can cause all manner of respiratory problems. It's not something I've had issue with personally, but health warnings are generally issued to ensure people aren't out exercising when it's particularly bad.

The other big drawback is the God awful stink. All year round Koreans put their garbage in the street to be collected, but in summer this makes for the ripe stink of rotting and slowly cooking garbage. It's not so bad in busier neighborhoods where the garbage men are quick to step in - but a back alley might go days or even weeks without tending. Not good.

Add this to the year round smell wafting up from the sewers and you've got a situation where you'll end up holding your breath every hundred or so meters lest you be struck down.

Education

Two of my favorite students at Storia bidding me farewell in 2009.

It sucks to be a kid in Korea. Having taught for two and a half years, I don't think I ever met a student who thought they had it good.

They're at school six days a week. They're at academies (private after school gigs) for several subjects after school for five of those days. Then there's homework. And on their day off? They'll get dragged on a hike or to visit an elderly relative. Torture!

An average student's day might read as follows:

Wake up at 6.30am
Eat a breakfast of rice, kimchi, and water.
Go to school at 8.30am
Finish school at 3pm
Go to English academy for an hour
Go to Math academy
Go to extracurricular activity such as Tae Kwon Do, ballet, computers, or art.
Go home and do homework until 11-12pm
Steal an hour on your computer to play Maple Story or chat.
Go to bed at 1am

Lather. Rinse. Repeat.

It's no wonder that Korea has one of the highest rates of suicide in the developed world.

Weight Issues

Koreans are slim. Not necessarily healthy, mind you, but slim.

If you're not model thin or a lanky lad, you're going to be told you're fat. Probably more than once a day. Not always by children either. Every employer I ever had made passing comments about my weight on a weekly basis.

Koreans don't like fat people. They'll bully the fat kid in their class and they'll laugh at the fat guy on TV.

That means it's difficult to shop for clothes in Korea (why cater to the fat guy?) and you're going to get some odd treatment come summer. I once near came to blows with a drunk ajoshi (old man) who honked my barely existent man boob while I was posing for a picture with a friend.

It wouldn't be so hard to stomach were Korea a nation of super fit athletes, but it's not. A lot of Koreans smoke and very few of them exercise. You'll be running laps and the young men walking the same track will look at you as if you're a mad-man. Very few people run in Korea. Power walking is the vogue form of exercise. It's right up there alongside badminton and the only sport where it's possible to be a morbidly obese millionaire - baseball.

There's some bitterness here, as you can probably tell. It was frustrating being a guy who could run a 10k and still have people assume that all you did was eat and sit on the couch at home. Especially when that was exactly what the person accusing you would be doing with their spare time.

Rant over.

--------------

This photo as nothing to do with the article, but look at how cute the two girls are!

As you can probably tell, a lot of my 'worst' when it comes to Korea aren't going to be things a tourist has to deal with. The weight perception, the education situation, and the medical stuff aren't likely to come up on your two week whirlwind tour.

In many ways I write that from the ex-pat perspective, and I apologize if that means I missed some glaringly obvious 'worst' about Korea.

All told, I loved my time in Korea. It's safe to say that I love Korea. Australia will always be my home and I'm not sure Korea will ever feature on my travel itinerary again - but that in no way reflects a lack of passion for the land of the morning calm on my behalf.

It's a beautiful and fascinating country.

The ‘Blog your Backyard’ Project

Share your local expertise and join the Blog your Backyard project! Become an ambassador for your country (home or adopted) by sharing your experiences and tips with other travelers. Submit your entries starting August 8th on WorldNomads.com for a chance to win one of 20 awesome excursions with Urban Adventures. Plus, if you want to share more of your local expertise or get answers to all of your travel questions, download the FREE ‘Ask A Nomad’ iPad app.

Photos: Blog Your Backyard - South Korea

aussieontheroad — Wed, 17 Aug 2011 15:42:00 GMT

Photos from South Korea

Do's and Don'ts in South Korea

aussieontheroad — Wed, 17 Aug 2011 15:33:00 GMT

South Korea might not technically be my backyard, especially not now that I'm back in Australia and away from the land of kimchi, all night binge drinking, and criminally short skirts.

As a part of World Nomads Blog Your Backyard project, I've decided to cover South Korea rather than Australia. Why? Because Australia gets plenty of press already! South Korea's something of an undiscovered vacation spot.

Week one calls for me to highlight a few do's and don't's in South Korea - the country I called home for two and a half years. So, here we go!

Do try the fantastic food

Delicious ddok galbi was my personal favorite. Spicy chicken, rice, chewy ddok (rice cakes), and cheese!

Korean food really doesn't get a lot of play around the world. While every man and his dog is familiar with Japanese sushi, Mongolian BBQ, and a good beef & black bean from the local Chinese take out - the world really hasn't been treated to the wonders of a good galbi meal; some spicy kimchi; or the icy sweetness of pot binsu.

I'll admit this about Korean food - it very rarely looks appetizing. This is not a country obsessed with creating food that looks good, but don't let that fool you. My mouth literally waters at the thought of a spicy ddok galbi lunch or a heart bibimbap breakfast to kick start my day.

But enough of my yammering. I'm not going to do Korean food justice in a short entry. Let some pictures and a few of my older entries on Korean food and Korean street food do the talking for me.

Don't eat boshintong

Could you really eat this cute little guy? Picture courtesy of Wikipedia

Far be it from me to judge a country that chooses to eat the cute and cuddly dog. I come from a country where both of the animals on our national crest (the kangaroo and emu) are regular features on the menu. I've got no qualms about a country's choice of meat.

But boshintong, a soup made from the meat of Jindo dog, crosses a bit of a line for me. Rather than the (comparitively) humane way in which cattle or chickens are killed in developed countries - dogs that are bred for meat are literally beaten to death. Why? Because Korean cultural lore says that the adrenaline in the dog when it dies will go towards increasing a man's stamina. And I don't mean his ability to run a race.

Do get out and experience some festivals

Celebrate the arrival of Spring by visiting Jinhae for their annual Cherry Blossom Festival.

Koreans love their festivals. Don't believe me? Here's just a few of the many, many festivals you can find around Korea during the year.

Boryeong Mud Festival
Jinhae Cherry Blossom Festival
Gwangju Kimchi Festival
Jindo Moses Miracle
Hampyeong Butterfly Festival
Muju Firefly Festival
Seoul World DJ Festival
Jisan Valley Rock Festival

And that is literally just a handful of the bigger festivals on show each year. There are dozens and dozens of them, and there's even overlap (multiple cities host cherry blossom festivals and lantern festivals) so you can miss one and still make its sister event later in the year.

Slipping and sliding my way down a mud slide at the Boryeong Mud Festival in 2009.

Each festival offers a unique insight into some facet of Korean culture, but it's also a great opportunity to try some new foods and see a new corner of Korea.

Don't cling to the Western World

Korea, like much of Asia, has made rapid strides to fit into the Western world. You'll find a McDonalds on virtually every corner and there's Western clothing outlets from Gap to H&M to Forever 21. Sometimes these comforts from home are a necessary evil. You might have had a rough day and the only thing that will stave off the tears is a juicy Whopper and a poorly acted Vin Diesel movie.

A sinfully good European Frico Cheese burger from Lotteria.

But it's easy to slip from occasional indulgence to 'home away from home' while you're in Korea, and you're not only depriving yourself of the true Korean experience - you're likely to put on a whole bunch of weight in the process.

Getting out to explore some hole in the wall kimbap joint or a smoky soju bar lets you get in touch with the real Korea and the real Koreans who inhabit it. You're far more likely to meet a unique character in a Korean restaurant than you are queuing for a sub at Quizno's in Itaewon.

Do drink

Korea is a country with a rich drinking culture. Between soju being dirt cheap and available virtually everywhere; employers encouraging their employees to come out on nightly visits to soju bars and noraebangs (singing rooms); and the lack of an open bottle law - Korea really is a drinker's paradise.

Myself and Jesse (his English name) rocking some Bon Jovi at a Korean owned brew pub in 2008.

Events such as the Mud Festival are borderline hedonistic, but even your average week night in Korea will see locals and foreigners alike carousing in the bars and in the streets. The bright neon lights that line most Korean streets put you in mind of Las Vegas, and the illusion is supported by the seemingly limitless supply of soju bars, hofs (beer & food), foreigner bars, cocktail lounges, noraebangs, and restaurants serving up libations ranging from locally brewed beer to imported whiskeys.

Fruit soju. Mana from heaven.

If you like to imbibe, you're going to have a great time in Korea. It's a country where drinking is every bit a big a part of life as eating rice three times a day and loving the taste of kimchi.

Don't be a bad representation of your country

Koreans completely understand a good hangover, but remember that you're an ambassador for foreigners everywhere.

I don't say this in a confrontational or derisive way - but South Korea is still a somewhat insular nation with a very out-dated view of the rest of the world. If you look at their history of being invaded by all and sundry though, you can understand their over-arcing cultural xenophobia.

That's not to say the average Korean is a foreigner hating maniac. The vast majority of Koreans I met were very excited to be meeting somebody from another country. There's a pervasive fascination with all things Western in South Korea, but it's tinged with a kind of innocent ignorance that can be offensive to some.

When I told my employer I was dating a South African girl, for example, he mimed waving a spear above her head as if the nation was full of savages.

Dealing with this feeling of being an outsider is all a part of the Korean experience, but you don't make things any easier for yourself or for others if you play the part of the evil foreigner. It's one thing to enjoy a drink and have a good time and another thing to get drunk and pick a fight. It's one thing to make a tiny cultural faux paus and another thing to flaunt your cleavage in defiance of Korean tradition.

More-so than a lot of other countries, Korea is a nation that needs to be treated with respect. Every disrespectful foreigner is only setting back the cause of breaking down Korean racial stereotyping.

Do soak in Korea's natural beauty

It might not be immediately obvious amidst the towering sky-scrapers and the neon lined streets, but the Korean peninsula boasts a lot of truly beautiful natural landscapes. While Jejudo's volcanic mountains and beaches are the most famous of these, there are secret places all over the nation that will capture any photographer's imagination.

Beautiful Daewonsa temple outside of Gwangju in the country's South West

There's beautiful Daewonsa Temple outside of Gwangju - where Tibetan Buddhist ideals blend seamlessly in with the gorgeous mountain scenery. There are the countless tiny islands dotting the west coast of Korea such as Bigeumdo; beautiful beaches such as Gwangalli and Boryeong; snow capped mountain peaks such as Muju; and the vast national parks of Seoraksan.

Bigeumdo island off Korea's SW coast is usually much sunnier than this spooky picture might indicate...

Hikers are going to be in heaven in Korea as well. The mountainous peninsula takes full advantage of the many peaks that scar the landscape with walking trails criss-crossing the nation.

Don't believe all you read

The Western media love nothing more than to beat up the hostile relationship between North and South Korea. It seems a month couldn't pass without a concerned friend or family member asking me if I would be fleeing the country in light of recent incidents.

"What incidents?" I'd ask.

Truth is, while the papers of the US and the UK love to talk up the brewing conflict between the two Koreas - those of us on the peninsula barely ever even hear about it.

While there is obvious tension to be felt when touring the DMZ, the fear quickly fades once you get away from the line that separates communist North Korea and the democratic South. The general feeling in the South is one of sadness and pity towards their starving Northern neighbors, and talks of unifying the peninsula are always at the forefront of the political agenda.

Relax. You'll be fine.

Do explore

If you only follow only one of the do's and don't's in South Korea I give here, make it this one. Korea is a small country, but they cram a hell of a lot into it. The Korean culture is such a fascinating mixture of thoughts and beliefs - a wonderfully confused blend of thousands of years of tradition and the rapid absorption of Western ideals and beliefs.

This has nothing to do with the article, but aren't Korean kids adorable?

You'll never truly experience it without roaming off the beaten track, stepping outside of the safety of the ever growing foreigner community, and taking a few risks.

But isn't that true of everywhere?