Hi Again
So just
finished an amazing few weeks of both the Inca Trail and a trip into the
Amazon. I will do my best to sum it all up in not so many words, here goes ...
The trip
started in Cusco where we arrived early in the hope of acclimatising and
therefore not dying in our sleep during an encomfortable night in a tent at
altitude! The first day or so went fine until I started hearing vague
complaints from Ash about not getting to see the ´real´amazon and only going to
the wet-lands in Bolivia. We had decided on half a day of running around the
tacky tourist shops in Cusco to get each other a few fun but cheap presents for
Xmas. As the second day in Cusco grew longer Ash couldn´t stop feeling bad
about missing the ´real´jungle. So, in an attempt to lighten her own spirits
she did what I fear any normal female would have done and carried out a bout of
retail therapy. First she bought some cool drinks mats (number one present
crossed off my ideas list!). Next she bought an Alpaca jumper (number two
crossed off my ideas list!). Thus, all I was left with for ideas were some
crappy candle holders that were impossible to find and a cheap watch which was
meant as a joke.
The Xmas
shopping commenced and, as I´m sure she had hoped, I could think of nothing
else but to blow my bank account and buy us a trip into the Amazon for her Xmas
present (naturally she still had to have some smaller things to open on the big
day!). So yes, in one day we paid off more than half the price of our Inca
Trail trip and paid for a 4 day forray to a lodge on an Amazon Tributary in
Southern Peru ... as usual, Ash had done rather well for Xmas.
To start
with I should explain we paid for a fairly expensive Inca Trail trip. We were
being responsible tourists and ensuring our guide and porters were not treated
like crap. This left us with a rather spectacular, fairly luxuary, camping
trip! We recieved 3 course meals for both lunch and dinner, and after leaving
camp with all out shit everywhere (we only had to carry our clothes, days water
bottler and sleeping bags), the porters promptly break camp for us and run
along the trail to ensure the pass us with sufficient time to greet us at the
next camp with tents and all set-up, and a fresh glass of juice! Not bad for
what was supposed to be a gruelling 4 day trek where we learned what it was
really like to be an Inca!
Anyway Day
one was a fairly leisurly day. We were picked up at 5:30am and set-off for the
start of the hike. We arrived in Ollytaytambo to stock up on the necessities of
a painted walking stick for Ash, some gloves and some Coca leaves for the
altitude. We finally started walking and the day proved to be a very managable
12km without too many hills. Part way along we encountered our first Incan Ruin
site, this looked really cool and served to raise hopes of what may be to come.
This was all merely preparation for day 2 which is supposed to be the truely
testing day.
Day 2 was a
fairly early breakfast and off we went for a 4 to 6 hour uphill slog,
encountering over 3000 stairs and a vertical climb of 1.2km over an 8km
distance. This was really tough and towards the top it became a case of resting
every 10 steps to catch our breath! Luckily we were all stuffing our mouths
full of Coca leaves to ebb the effects fo altitude and give us a little extra
energy (It really works and sucks that the leaf is illegal elsewhere because it
makes a damn good tea!). With the climb finished we stood at the highest point
on the Inca Trail (Warmiwanusca Pass, 4200m). From there it was a really nice
hike down to camp 2 in
a spectacular valley (Pacamayo). From our camp we had views through the clouds
of Glacier so I went to sleep dreaming of skiing!
Day 3 is
the longest day of trekking (16km) but also offered the best views. We count
ourselves very lucky as we didn´t get too wet, unfortunately the ´rainy season´provided
constant clouds so the stunning views of surrounding snow capped peaks came
reluctantly. We did manage to get a few really amazing views though with the
only signs of civilisation the Trail made 500 years ago by the Incas which was
still in really good condition and the numerous people we shared the trail with
(500 new people each day!). After an early morning pass we dropped down by a
lake the shape of South America and came across our third lot of ruins at Sayacmarca.
You wouldn´t believe the places the Incas decided to build small communities
but it makes for good viewing. We welcomed teh sight of our final camp and the
chance to have a shower, although it was a shame to be back amongst power lines
and hoards of people after 3 days of fresh air.
The final
day was a super early start to beat the crowds into Machu Picchu. We waited and
waited at the ´Sungate´ for birds-eye views of Machu Picchu but the clouds were
holding fast. Finally we all got what we had sat for an hour for, and it was
definitely worth it. For the next 3 hours the sun shone giving us awesome views
of the ruins. They are undescribable so you will just have to check out our
pics. But to give an idea, they are perched on the top of a really steep
mountain, with an even bigger, steeper one just behind it. We had a great day
there and finished it off with pictures of Llamas before heading on a SLOW
train back to Cusco. It did make us feel rather self-rightious being on the
train with all the lazy people who had bussed their way there though.
Back in
Cusco we had a celebratory beer before hitting the hay. We were utterly
knackered and had a night bus into the jungle the next day! The bus was one of
the worst yet! Rather cramped and really hot, but we made it none the less and
set off up the rivier for 3 nights in a jungle lodge. The lodge ws great,
bamboo lodges with cool high thatched rooves gave us nice views of the
surrounding jungle and allowed us to be woken up to the cacophony of different
birds flying around. We had 3 full days in the jungle and saw loads of cool
animals. Unfortunately Xmas day brought with it horrendous stomach íssues´ for
me so I had to struggle through the trip! We saw 4 different types of monkey (Dusty
Tinted, Red Howler, Brown Capuchin and Saddlebacked Tamarin) which were really
cool, bats, parrots, macaws and so many more the list could be endless. The
guides are amazing, not only being able to tell birds apart from their song
before you see them, but even being able to make a lot of the sounds with
various whistles! Our guide grew up in a local community and after studying
tourism at uni had decided to become a guide. When he realisde 4 months ago he
could make more money speaking english he started studying, he is now fluent
and starting German! 4 MONTHS! This is the same guy who has been no farther
from home than the 12 hour bus ride to Cusco and has only seen the ocean on the
TV. It certainly puts our efforts in Spanish to shame. So yes, Xmas in the
Jungle was really cool and certainly not a festive season I am likely to
forget, no matter how much I would have liked to be home for the first white
Xmas in as long as I can remember.
Apologies
for the spelling mistakes and the length of the article!
Feliz Navidad and Feliz Ano Nuevo.
Love to all
Matt and Ash.
