We left Noumea bound for the outer Islands of New Caledonia on a rainy, windy morning and the weather did not improve much throughout the day. We aimed for a well protected anchorage on an island just off the south coast of Grande Terre (the main island of New Cal) called Isle Ouen about 40 nautical miles away from Noumea and we made anchor at about five after about two hours of pointless tacking and an eventual motorsail. The wind was gusting up to thirty five knots throughout the night and a direct headwind. In the morning we arose to much of the same and as intended we motored out through the channel between the island and the mainland and hit short steep seas, rainsqualls and stronger winds. After about two hours we decided against continuing to Isle de Pines and pulled into another protected but rather unattractive bay for a relaxing afternoon napping and reading magazines.
The weather in New Caledonia is warm but not hot – usually between 23 and 30 degrees during the day and about 15 of a night. Which is actually really good as it is easy to sleep of a night time. Every time I complain that its just a few degrees too cold I hit myself with the realisation that in two weeks we will be another 1000nm further north and it is going to be that hot and humid I will wish I was in an icebox – let alone perfect New Caledonia!!
The next day we arose to sunshine and lighter winds so we were able to continue on to Isle de Pines. We exited the main barrier reef which surrounds Grande Terre and hit large steep seas due to the bad weather. The kids had had no medicine and so during the day both vomited and felt pretty bad but thankfully I held up ok. We arrived at Baie de Kuto on Isle de Pines at about 3pm and immediately jumped in the dinghy to head ashore. It was quickly decided that this place was well worth the trip. Baie de Kuto is picturesque with a long white sand beach fronted by Palm trees and a small village up one end near the main wharf. As we wandered the beach it hit home – who would have believed six months ago that I would be walking along the beach on a tropical island when it is the middle of winter at home (sorry had to mention that one!) Baie de Kuto is separated by a small distance, about thirty metres at its narrowest, from Baie de Kunamera which is absolutely idyllic and looks a lot like the publicity pictures from Thailand.
The same afternoon ‘Big Fish’ arrived, the catamaran we had befriended in Noumea with three young kids on board, and we promised to let the kids play the next day. It was sundowners all round as we watched our first sunset from the cockpit. After breakfast the next morning I was first in the water, still a bit chilly at about 23 degrees, followed soon after by Alfred and then Bella and Kilian. We were freaked out a bit at first by the presence of small sucker sharks hiding under the boat but they were more scared of us I think! We could clearly see the sandy bottom even though we were anchored in seven metres of water and I tried out my snorkel and flippers swimming around the boat and attempting to find the turtle that kept teasing me by surfacing about twenty metres away.
Not long after the kids disappeared over to ‘Big Fish’ so I spent the morning sunbaking and listening to my Ipod on the back deck of the boat. Another swim before lunch and a walk on the beach after ended a nearly perfect day. The next day the kids again disappeared after school to ‘Big Fish’ and Steffie and Alfred set off to walk Pic Nga (main hill on Isle de Pines just behind Baie de Kuto 262m). I had just settled down in the cockpit in my bathers and sarong when I heard Isabell crying. Richard off ‘Big Fish’ brought her over and the poor thing had knocked a baby tooth near out after being towed in the Ski Biscuit behind his dinghy. However after a few chocolates she was all smiles again and determined to go back out in the ski biscuit but with me! So I was coerced into getting in but we were too heavy to pull behind the dinghy together so I promised Bella I would go first at which point Richard decided to use me as an example and roared off around the Baie into the choppy sea where I promptly began bouncing off one wave and onto the crest of the next – much to the amusement of the kids in the dinghy! I managed to hold on for about ten minutes before the whole Biscuit overturned and sent me with it. I later discovered blood blisters all up and down my sides and the insides of my arms I was holding on that tight!! Great fun though.
The next day the catamaran made a day trip out to Ilot Moro a pristine Islet about 5nm from Kuto so I joined the kids on board and Alfred and Steffie stayed behind to fix the watermaker. We collected shells and walked on the beach and then had a beautiful picnic lunch before Richard dropped me and another older guy Jason out to the deeper surrounding reef to snorkel and took the kids inshore to do the same. Unfortunately the coral was nothing special but there were some nice fish and it was great to get back into the snorkelling again.
On Tuesday an Australian cruise ship arrived in our idyllic bay and soon we were surrounded by Australians. It meant however that the natives put on traditional dances which we were able to view on the beach and the cruise ship paid the locals to provide Bounge which is a local dish made with chicken or fish and cooked with Taro, Pumpkin and Coconut Milk in banana leaves. So we were able to taste for free! Another local Helene was selling Banana Fritters which were a definite hit for me and Bella dined out on drinking coconuts.
After an exhausting day we awoke the next morning to yet another cruise ship, a Kiwi one this time, and we had thought it couldn’t get any worse! Still more Bounge and Alfred and I took advantage of the cooler morning and walked up Pic Nga for the spectacular view and a little bit of exercise. Big Fish left this day so the children were returned to us and Steffie decided to take advantage of the fact and do as much schooling as possible. By this time we had decided that paradise couldn’t get much better than this and so instead of heading off to the Loyaty Islands and then having to sail back against a headwind we just decided to relax and spend another few days at Isle de Pines before sailing back to Noumea to clear out.
So on Thursday I decided to have a day away from the boat while the kids did school and caught a bus transfer over to the other side of the island. Although not as pretty as Baie de Kuto where we are anchored Baie de Oro on the other side had a Le Meridien which I snuck into, grabbed a towel and a sunlounger and spent about three hours relaxing by the pool. ahhhh what a life! It was here I managed to grab the only internet on the island but was interrupted after about twenty minutes when reception realised I wasn’t actually a guest! Still it was a great day and nice to spend some time alone although I almost missed the family!
Friday the weather was not so nice so I spent the morning walking along the beach, followed by a swim off the boat. In the afternoon I did a collage with Isabel and the kids tried to hide the fact that they were making me birthday cards for the next day. I had a nice little sleep in on my birthday and when I emerged about eight the table was set with a beautiful tropical fruit salad, champagne and a big chocolate cake (my favourite). So my 23rd birthday started really well and as a bonus I was in phone range so I managed to get calls and text messages from family and friends. A swim and a walk in the morning was followed by another afternoon of relaxing on the boat.
There was a reason we stayed on the boat that day though. In the morning the kids and I went to go ashore in the dinghy and Kilian jumped in, followed by me and Bella was on her way into the dinghy when I spotted a yellow and black striped snake quietly slithering straight for Kilian’s feet. I screamed ‘Get out of the dinghy Kilian’ and obviously they heard the seriousness of my voice as for once they actually obeyed me. Upon which I mentioned there was a snake in the dinghy and pandemonium erupted with the kids screaming and yelling and Alfred (being the skipper and thereby responsible for the removal of all nasty animals – snakes and otherwise) chased the snake around with two of my flipflops before finally managing to throw it in the water where it quickly swam away. Looking back I thank god that the snake chose to display itself BEFORE we untied the dinghy from the boat and floated away as no doubt we all would have abandoned the dinghy for the water and then where would we be!!
Talk about excitement! From then on we checked the dinghy thoroughly (or Alfred did – also part of the skippers job) including with a headlamp that night when we set off on an expedition over to Baie de Kunamera to the resort for dinner which was a stunning setting right on the beach. All together a great birthday and one I will probably remember forever.
On Sunday the weather was nearly perfect with the sun shining brightly. The boys went trolling for fish in the morning but our unsuccessful run continued and they returned emptyhanded. In the afternoon we took the snorkel gear over to Baie de Kunamera for a swim around the island in the middle of the bay and then the kids and I had water fights and played piggy in the middle. Ah to be a child again! We were saddened by the fact that this was our last day in paradise but we had a final sunday session to say goodbye to some of the sailors at the hotel nearby so our stay in Isle de Pines ended well.
So back to Noumea – fortunately this time the wind was with us and with an overnight stop in Baie de Prony we are now back to reality and the city. There are some things that we are looking forward to returning to such as fresh croissants for breakfast and the internet but our stay in Isle de Pines will never be forgotten. It is said that the island is a south sea paradise and for once you can truly believe the tourism blurb.
